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Old 04-08-2010, 06:46 AM
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Bullet Proof Engine Oil Cooler?

Anyone out there using a Neal Technologies Bullet Proof condensor mounted engine oil cooler on an 05-07?

Last edited by 135vtm; 04-08-2010 at 06:53 AM.
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Old 04-08-2010, 07:11 AM
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I suggest you stay with the oil to coolant stock system. Add a coolant filter to prevent any clogging issue with the oil cooler and it works great. The Bullet Proof setup is very expensive and DOESN'T include a thermostatic bypass which is necessary in this type system if you live where it gets cold or your oil temps can remain too low which is not good for the engine.
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Old 04-08-2010, 08:37 AM
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Thanks for your response SVT but I already have one installed. I have a condition and wanted to know if anyone else with the same condensor mounted setup was experiencing the same thing.

Its not cold climate related, and BP is working on a cold climate thermostat.

My problem is slow oil pressure bulidup on cold start. Its normal on warm or semi warm start, (a few hours), and normal and steady when running but it takes up to 6 seconds for the needle to move after the engine starts after sitting over night, (2 seconds is normal).

I would also like to hear from anyone who has a bumper mount B.P. Cooler.
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Old 04-08-2010, 11:09 AM
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Old 04-08-2010, 04:01 PM
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Well being that the dummy gauge on the Dash operates I believe at 10psi or so before it moves, I think the biggest issue is that your having is that lpop feeding the system its taking longer cause the system itself has alot more to go through vs the original set-up, like instead of just running from the lpop to the oil cooler takes less pressure and time then it does like what you have going up to the cooler through the lines, through the cooler, through the external filter, and lines then back to the cooler. That might be thought behind that its my opinion.

You can take it with a grain of salt, but just to give you an idea why i said that because me and another member were figuring the oil cooler delete long before BP came out with one and to be exact 2 yrs ago so I have study the system pretty well and know etc. Hope what I said above gives you a better idea.
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Old 04-08-2010, 05:04 PM
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Thanks for the input Rescue250.

I think the system is bleeding off back to the crankcase through the feed side after it sits for an extended period of time. Although theres more oil volume and plumbing, as long as the system is full upon start up the pressure should rise immediatly. If the system bleeds back some, upon startup the reservoir below the oil transfer block (where the old oil cooler used to sit) is being emtied by the HPOP before it gets oil from the LPOP because its purging air. The transfer block is also where the oil pressure sender is mounted.

If I have the oil bypass hooked up the delay is long enough to trigger a warning on the dash moniter, accompanied by a rough idle (probably because the HPO system is starting to suck air) and a check engine light. With out the bypass hooked up its about a 6 second delay but no other symtoms. The BP bypass line comes out of the cooler, goes throgh the bypass filter, then dumps in the fill tube, hence more oil volume demand.

When my truck sits for a shorter period of time the "dummy " guage reacts within 2 seconds, the same as a stock cold 6.0. The longer my truck sits, the more time its takes the guage to react.

I dont think the check valve in the filter is holding the oil in the cooler and lines that sit above it in the condensor mounted setup, it may be holding it in the bumper mounted version because the cooler is mounted at nearly the same level as the filter.

I didn't come up with this on my own, my tech has been trying to figure this out and this scenerio makes the most sense to me.

BP says they have not experienced any issues like this but I would really like to hear from any other BP oil cooler users, especially the folks with the condensor mounted version and find out how many seconds it takes for their guage to react.

We think we may have a way to check our theory, crack the feed line on the output side of the cooler when the truck is stone cold, if oil doesn't come pouring out then thats it! Then we have to figure out the best way to solve it.

Nothing is ever just a bolt on is it!

Last edited by 135vtm; 04-08-2010 at 05:35 PM.
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Old 04-08-2010, 05:19 PM
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Nope it never does lol. You do bring up some good valid points, these were some of the issues I brought up months and months ago with BP but after getting into it all post stopped and no one ever said a thing after that, sucks when ppl get put on the spot and actually ask indepth questions about things and you cant get an answer.
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Old 04-08-2010, 06:57 PM
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The check valve on your bypass filter is only gonna hold oil from the filter towards the fill tube and hpop resevoir. Depending on how your cooler lines are run, they may hold some oil, but the supply to the cooler ends up being open to drainback upon shutdown. Maybe a check valve as close as possible to the start of the feed side cooler line? Sure your lpop is in good shape? They do wear over time ,and slower pressure up times result, also seen the lpop bypass malfunction with similar results. Replace the pickup from the pan? Bad or damaged pickup o-ring and you have air in the oil, but you would see steady running issues with that scenario. So you have looped the cooler and filter bypass out and it still takes 6 seconds? I would really start scrutinizing the lpop if so. Maybe first check for oil aeration, you would certainly have it going on with the air in oil effects you are seeing, good tech will know how to check it, think the bible has that test in it also, or give me a shout. Good Luck.
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Old 04-08-2010, 08:22 PM
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135, I think you are on to the problem. a check valve it the proper location to stop the drain back should take care of it for you. If all else fails you could install pre-oiler. Sucks to spend that much money on a system that isn't properly designed and tested. The very fact that they didn't include a thermostatic bypass was enough to tell me they didn't know what they were doing. Your post bears that out. Hope you get it resolved before it does any significant engine damage.

Last edited by PGreenSVT; 04-08-2010 at 08:28 PM.
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Old 04-09-2010, 07:28 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Vizsla View Post
The check valve on your bypass filter is only gonna hold oil from the filter towards the fill tube and hpop resevoir. Depending on how your cooler lines are run, they may hold some oil, but the supply to the cooler ends up being open to drainback upon shutdown. Maybe a check valve as close as possible to the start of the feed side cooler line? Sure your lpop is in good shape? They do wear over time ,and slower pressure up times result, also seen the lpop bypass malfunction with similar results. Replace the pickup from the pan? Bad or damaged pickup o-ring and you have air in the oil, but you would see steady running issues with that scenario. So you have looped the cooler and filter bypass out and it still takes 6 seconds? I would really start scrutinizing the lpop if so. Maybe first check for oil aeration, you would certainly have it going on with the air in oil effects you are seeing, good tech will know how to check it, think the bible has that test in it also, or give me a shout. Good Luck.
The truck only has 23K on it. Oil changed between 3 & 5K. No real heavy service. Tows a 7500lb trailer over the mountains 6-8 times per year and weekend drives. No commuting or much stop & go. The gauge always reacted normally when stock, 2-3 seconds, even after sitting for a week. I think the oiling system is in good shape. I have not bypassed the entire cooler yet, just disconnected the bypass and that got it down to 6 seconds stone cold, with the bypass online it was more. There is suppose to be a check in the main filter which is the lowest point in the system, mounted on the drivers side frame rail but I think thats whats bleeding off, I think if there was an actual spring loaded check in the filter block that would do it provided it did not restrict flow when open. We still have to verify its the cooler & lines that are bleeding off but thats our thought to this point.

SVT, thanks for your thoughts, I really thought this system was the answer to not having to get into the motor again for a long time and I hope it still is. I knew about the themostat before I bought the system and figured I would add it later. I resarched this for 6 months before diving in and spending ALL my $, (I really wanted a new dirt bike). I want to make sure there is not something else faulty before I get too discouraged but I'm for sure having second thoughts on my decision.

Thanks again for all of your feedback guys
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