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| 6.0L Performance Parts Discussion What has or has not worked for you? |
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STuD's going in
Man I hope this is the fix. I'm gonna scream if I have to visit the dealer again this year. First bed plate seal, then oil cooler and turbo, now head gaskets. I spent the $$$ for the ARPs hoping it ends the cycle.
I know one thing... when the 100k mile engine warranty is done... so am I. Figure she'll go up for sale in a couple years, around 95k miles. ![]() ![]()
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Congrats, did you get them done under warranty? You should get a hold of Adam at FCDP and get yourself an EGR delete too, then you should be set.
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![]() ![]() Also ditch the EGR cooler |
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Can't ditch the cooler... I hear starting next year I'll have to pass a smog inspection... I think its a visual inspection only. I'm stuck with just the EGR block off.
Yup, HGs were warrantied. |
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Also, anyone know of a machine shop around the Beaumont/Houston area that works alot with these heads? |
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I dont really remember from when I did my studs, But the heads need to be very close, i believe .005 run out is out of spec. Again Im not 100% positive but its crazy how close the tolerances are.
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I thought the heads only had to be machined if there was Damage?
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Well Truck Source Diesel told me:
"There are a few dealerships out there that will replace the studs under warranty but we have actually found it takes a little more than that to consistently end the leaking problem. We have found that well over half of the cylinder heads are not flat enough or have a good enough RA value to seal the multi layer steel headgaskets that a 6.0 has. So even with the highest clamping force in the world, some would still leak. To solve this we have a machine shop mill the heads to our specs and put a nice surface on them. We also take the chance to magnaflux and pressure test the heads to check for any cracks to prevent future problems." |
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Don't over look the deck surface. last one we did looked like absolute hell so we long blocked it. not worth a chance on a repeat failure, and to my knowledge, there's no one who makes a suitable shim or HG to make up what gets machined off. if it looks like chit, make them replace the long block or you'll be screwed later when they fail again after warranty. It's your truck, not there's, make them fix it properly.
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