A few months ago I got a near new lock-right locker off of craigslist for $100. I couldn't pass it up. I have known about the lock right locker for a long time but never wanted to spend the money on it because of the many complaints of the "clicking" or "ratcheting" sound that it makes when going around a corner. People also say that it isn't as strong as a "true locker"
Well, my opinion is it's just as good and I love it. Not only is it a lot cheaper, but it is a lot easier to install....probably. I say probably because if you have a limited slip rear (like I had) you have to pull the whole carrier and replace it with an open carrier. This is not that hard, just time consuming. If you already have an open rear however, all you need to do is pull the spiders, throw this bad boy in and go!
If you do have to replace the carrier, don't be afraid of it. Setting the backlash and such is not difficult at all. It is just time consuming to get it within proper specs because you have to install, measure, then take it back out to make any adjustment to the shims. Then install again, measure, and repeat until you get it right.
Another tip. The 10.25" and 10.5" carrier assembly are identical and interchangeable.
I've had it in for just under 3 months now and I have beat it just to see if it would last. Mods to my truck are in the sig, and it's been just fine. Now, I don't beat it every day, I just did initially to see how it would do. No issues yet! There are many people that claim big tires and extra HP are bad on these things, but, these comments are usually coming form jeep owners and smaller vehicles owners. It is my understanding that the jeeps and zukis, and other vehicles that typically run a lock right do not have hardened steel cross pins, where as the cross pin in our sterling rear end is hardened, and a lot of the issues people have with them breaking don't apply to us. I know that anything is possible and can break, but from my research people have issues with detroits breaking just as much as these. So I definitely recommend people giving these a shot and trying them before they just blow them off.
Also, the noise. I am being dead honest here, if I wouldn't have done the work myself, I seriously wouldn't even believe the locker was back there(except for the obvious of being able to spin around any corner I want now). Maybe it's because my truck is diesel, maybe it's because it's a crew cab long box, but I don't hear it making noise or clicking, or anything. Some people also say that if you hit the skinny pedal while on the interstate, or just going down the road, the vehicle will want to change lanes. Not mine. It's just there and never fails.
I will say I have not towed with it yet, so I can't comment on that. However I do not tow heavy on a daily basis, so I am not too concerned with that. I feel as long as I'm smart and careful, it shouldn't be an issue.
These are all my opinions and I just wanted to share my real world experience with everybody about the lock right locker in a lifted, slightly modified HP truck.
I am still trying to get a good chance to leave :scuffy somewhere and get pics. I just need to find a "safe" place where I can do that.
Well, my opinion is it's just as good and I love it. Not only is it a lot cheaper, but it is a lot easier to install....probably. I say probably because if you have a limited slip rear (like I had) you have to pull the whole carrier and replace it with an open carrier. This is not that hard, just time consuming. If you already have an open rear however, all you need to do is pull the spiders, throw this bad boy in and go!
If you do have to replace the carrier, don't be afraid of it. Setting the backlash and such is not difficult at all. It is just time consuming to get it within proper specs because you have to install, measure, then take it back out to make any adjustment to the shims. Then install again, measure, and repeat until you get it right.
Another tip. The 10.25" and 10.5" carrier assembly are identical and interchangeable.
I've had it in for just under 3 months now and I have beat it just to see if it would last. Mods to my truck are in the sig, and it's been just fine. Now, I don't beat it every day, I just did initially to see how it would do. No issues yet! There are many people that claim big tires and extra HP are bad on these things, but, these comments are usually coming form jeep owners and smaller vehicles owners. It is my understanding that the jeeps and zukis, and other vehicles that typically run a lock right do not have hardened steel cross pins, where as the cross pin in our sterling rear end is hardened, and a lot of the issues people have with them breaking don't apply to us. I know that anything is possible and can break, but from my research people have issues with detroits breaking just as much as these. So I definitely recommend people giving these a shot and trying them before they just blow them off.
Also, the noise. I am being dead honest here, if I wouldn't have done the work myself, I seriously wouldn't even believe the locker was back there(except for the obvious of being able to spin around any corner I want now). Maybe it's because my truck is diesel, maybe it's because it's a crew cab long box, but I don't hear it making noise or clicking, or anything. Some people also say that if you hit the skinny pedal while on the interstate, or just going down the road, the vehicle will want to change lanes. Not mine. It's just there and never fails.
I will say I have not towed with it yet, so I can't comment on that. However I do not tow heavy on a daily basis, so I am not too concerned with that. I feel as long as I'm smart and careful, it shouldn't be an issue.
These are all my opinions and I just wanted to share my real world experience with everybody about the lock right locker in a lifted, slightly modified HP truck.
I am still trying to get a good chance to leave :scuffy somewhere and get pics. I just need to find a "safe" place where I can do that.