Picked up an 03 w. 173K on the clock. pretty good shape, for the miles.
Been reading for a while about 6.0 mods. I came from a Dodge 5.9 (albeit several years ago). So I have a general idea about diesel tech, but wonder what specific things I need to pay immediate attention to with this 6.0.
It appears un-molested, no evidence of a programmer etc.
What are the most important mods to keep this thing running good before I get to things like exhaust, intake, programmers etc?
I just bought a 05 X/6.0 and had two bad injectors on the left bank, replaced all 4 and the fuel pump. Then it started stalling when I hit the brakes, which FORD should've fixed for free due to liability...anyway, it was the STC fittings/orings on the turbo and updated drain tube, etc...
What I'm doing is a coolant bypass filter and oil by pass filter....oil is the culprit to most of the issues with the 6.0...AMSOIL makes the oil bypass kit.
Here's some good info from a 6.0 guru:
OK I will send what i have like i said everything is a must if you plan on keeping your truck. 1. oil by-pass to clean the oil the stock filter (use only Ford Filters) cleans the oil to 20 microns the by pass cleans to 2 microns these injectors run in oil and try and use Syn oil but you must change at 5k because of the shear of the oil by the injectors.
2 Gauges-- I like the Edge Insight will give you a lot of information a great tool you need to know your temps, i'm running EOT-ECT-EGT-Trans no more than 15* difference in the ECT-EOT i think 10* if more your coolers are starting to get plugged.
3. Fuel pressure gauge under 45lbs kills injectors this is a must and run a centane boost in the fuel to clean the turbo and EGR valve and about everyother week drive it like you stole it after it warms up, that takes about 20-30 minutes of driveing to get the heads warmed up or get the oil to around 185-190* and never go over 28lbs of boost or you may stretch the head bolts, use only Ford or Racor fuel filter change at 15k and if you pull change at 10k
4. Coolent filter a must to remove the casting sand and all the other carp in the coolent to try and keep the coolers clean.
5. ELC coolent change, to remove the Ford Gold Crap coolent the number one reason these coolers fail, the coolent gets to hot (caused by the EGR cooler HOT gases dumping back in) then the silicates drop out turning into a goo slim and plugs the coolers, the first in line to plug is the oil cooler but the EGR cooler is the first to go because of the heat that is why if you do not have to go through DEQ testing a EGR delete is a good move then you could do a light tune (maybe) like the SCTX3 it is the only one because it works with the trans also but ARP studs are need also the down side is they have to pull the cab to do this, so I will stay stock.