Wheel flares to cover rust bubbles - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
6.0L Exterior Discussion Body and Accessories Talk

Powerstroke.org is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 01-30-2014, 07:42 AM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Whiteford, MD
Posts: 153
Thanks: 10
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Wheel flares to cover rust bubbles

My '05 is starting to bubble the paint at the rear fenders. It's from the inner fender holding crud and rusting from the inside. Thought about pulling the bed off and dropping somewhere to let them do it right. Too many projects that require $$$ at the time.
Does anyone no of a subtle wheel flare that might cover this up for now? I don't really want a bunch of new holes.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old 01-30-2014, 09:35 AM
Premium Member
 

Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Fallon, Nv
Posts: 2,402
Thanks: 52
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
After you cover it, you'll forget about it. Then, when it rears it's ugly head again, it will be a REAL MESS. Fix it now or buy a complete bed skin later.

Karl and his 2003 Souper Doody
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3  
Old 01-30-2014, 02:00 PM
Premium Member
 

Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 534
Thanks: 0
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I bought a gallon of POR 15 and sprayed everything under the truck including up around the wheel wells. I used a hole saw to cut the "spots" out and to add some drain holes by the inner wheel well seam and sprayed POR in and around. I then prepped and sprayed the rocker panels, bumpers, and wheel wells with U-pol raptor liner and finally installed some bushwackers.

The easy part is finding fender flares. But don't just bolt them over the rust. Cut out and seal the good metal so it doesn't spread. Sure there will be some quarter sized holes in the metal (sealed) under the flares. But I'm not going to spend $1000 for new bed or bedsides + paint on a vehicle that I don't use for "show".
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4  
Old 01-30-2014, 03:45 PM
Premium Member
 

Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Fallon, Nv
Posts: 2,402
Thanks: 52
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by gotta_gofast View Post
But I'm not going to spend $1000 for new bed or bedsides + paint on a vehicle that I don't use for "show".
Between the purchase price and add ons, my personal pride would REQUIRE me to fix the rust even if it meant a bed side or two. Now I will say that as long as you aren't painting over rust, POR15 is a good preventative measure.

Bushwhacker cut outs were about $1000 the last time I looked.

Karl and his 2003 Souper Doody
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5  
Old 01-30-2014, 05:39 PM
Premium Member
 

Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 534
Thanks: 0
Thanked 23 Times in 21 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Huh, bought my flares brand new for a little over $400 (for front and rear) and you'd never know there was a repair unless you ripped them off...

Repairing and repainting will only last about 5-6 years if you drive your vehicle during the winter with road salt.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6  
Old 01-30-2014, 06:01 PM
Premium Member
 

Join Date: Jan 2012
Location: Fallon, Nv
Posts: 2,402
Thanks: 52
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Fender flares were about $400~$500 but the cut outs, as in require removing sheet metal to install, were as much as a lift. Hence why I lifted my truck when I did 35s.

Karl and his 2003 Souper Doody
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7  
Old 01-31-2014, 04:47 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Jan 2010
Location: Whiteford, MD
Posts: 153
Thanks: 10
Thanked 1 Time in 1 Post
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by gotta_gofast View Post
Huh, bought my flares brand new for a little over $400 (for front and rear) and you'd never know there was a repair unless you ripped them off...

Repairing and repainting will only last about 5-6 years if you drive your vehicle during the winter with road salt.
I am planning on doing the repair eventually. It just needs a temporary band-aid for now. If the bubbles don't pop the paint off I may wait a little longer.

Last edited by casper4203; 01-31-2014 at 04:52 PM. Reason: change text
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8  
Old 01-31-2014, 07:21 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Norwalk, CT
Posts: 788
Thanks: 6
Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Be careful, its probably not just the bed side, but also the inner fender/bed side.
That is a separate piece from the side, and this inner liner is the other half of the issue.
Mine was really bad, rust starting to bubble the fenders.
My crossmembers were pretty rough too.
I lucked out, my neighbors kid hit my truck, and paid for 75% of a new bed.

Talk to your local body shop, they hate doing rust repair jobs and usually charge a very large amount. Also, they will not warranty any of the work on rust repair- its an industry standard (I used to work in a body shop).

A good friend of mine owns his own shop, and he strongly recommended against repairing it.
Even with his "friend" discounts, the new 2013 bed, gate, and bumper was only $500 more than the rust repairs on both sides.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9  
Old 02-01-2014, 04:25 PM
Powerstroke Techie

 

Join Date: Nov 2010
Location: South Fayette/Pittsburgh PA
Posts: 5,214
Thanks: 21
Thanked 72 Times in 63 Posts
Feedback Score: 4 reviews
I'm in the market for a new complete bed myself. Not only do I have the rust on the wheel wells but my floor is has 2 holes and my rails are rotting too. It's not worth just doing bed sides, eventually the rest will go too
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10  
Old 02-01-2014, 06:33 PM
Compression Ignition Addict
 

Join Date: Nov 2009
Location: Norwalk, CT
Posts: 788
Thanks: 6
Thanked 10 Times in 10 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I have a guy in North MA that sells complete, new OEM beds, tail gates, everything.
About half the price of what dealers sell them for.
I was out the door with the bed, gate, bed caps, emblem, mounting bolts and nuts, $2800.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
If you do not want to register, fill this field only and the name will be used as user name for your post.
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:03 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
Garage Plus, Vendor Tools vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.

vB.Sponsors