Wheel flares to cover rust bubbles - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 10 Old 01-30-2014, 07:42 AM Thread Starter
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Wheel flares to cover rust bubbles

My '05 is starting to bubble the paint at the rear fenders. It's from the inner fender holding crud and rusting from the inside. Thought about pulling the bed off and dropping somewhere to let them do it right. Too many projects that require $$$ at the time.
Does anyone no of a subtle wheel flare that might cover this up for now? I don't really want a bunch of new holes.

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post #2 of 10 Old 01-30-2014, 09:35 AM
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After you cover it, you'll forget about it. Then, when it rears it's ugly head again, it will be a REAL MESS. Fix it now or buy a complete bed skin later.

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post #3 of 10 Old 01-30-2014, 02:00 PM
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I bought a gallon of POR 15 and sprayed everything under the truck including up around the wheel wells. I used a hole saw to cut the "spots" out and to add some drain holes by the inner wheel well seam and sprayed POR in and around. I then prepped and sprayed the rocker panels, bumpers, and wheel wells with U-pol raptor liner and finally installed some bushwackers.

The easy part is finding fender flares. But don't just bolt them over the rust. Cut out and seal the good metal so it doesn't spread. Sure there will be some quarter sized holes in the metal (sealed) under the flares. But I'm not going to spend $1000 for new bed or bedsides + paint on a vehicle that I don't use for "show".

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post #4 of 10 Old 01-30-2014, 03:45 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotta_gofast View Post
But I'm not going to spend $1000 for new bed or bedsides + paint on a vehicle that I don't use for "show".
Between the purchase price and add ons, my personal pride would REQUIRE me to fix the rust even if it meant a bed side or two. Now I will say that as long as you aren't painting over rust, POR15 is a good preventative measure.

Bushwhacker cut outs were about $1000 the last time I looked.

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post #5 of 10 Old 01-30-2014, 05:39 PM
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Huh, bought my flares brand new for a little over $400 (for front and rear) and you'd never know there was a repair unless you ripped them off...

Repairing and repainting will only last about 5-6 years if you drive your vehicle during the winter with road salt.

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post #6 of 10 Old 01-30-2014, 06:01 PM
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Fender flares were about $400~$500 but the cut outs, as in require removing sheet metal to install, were as much as a lift. Hence why I lifted my truck when I did 35s.

Karl and his 2003 Souper Doody

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Yellow Military Aircraft Valve Stem Caps
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post #7 of 10 Old 01-31-2014, 04:47 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by gotta_gofast View Post
Huh, bought my flares brand new for a little over $400 (for front and rear) and you'd never know there was a repair unless you ripped them off...

Repairing and repainting will only last about 5-6 years if you drive your vehicle during the winter with road salt.
I am planning on doing the repair eventually. It just needs a temporary band-aid for now. If the bubbles don't pop the paint off I may wait a little longer.

Last edited by casper4203; 01-31-2014 at 04:52 PM. Reason: change text
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post #8 of 10 Old 01-31-2014, 07:21 PM
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Be careful, its probably not just the bed side, but also the inner fender/bed side.
That is a separate piece from the side, and this inner liner is the other half of the issue.
Mine was really bad, rust starting to bubble the fenders.
My crossmembers were pretty rough too.
I lucked out, my neighbors kid hit my truck, and paid for 75% of a new bed.

Talk to your local body shop, they hate doing rust repair jobs and usually charge a very large amount. Also, they will not warranty any of the work on rust repair- its an industry standard (I used to work in a body shop).

A good friend of mine owns his own shop, and he strongly recommended against repairing it.
Even with his "friend" discounts, the new 2013 bed, gate, and bumper was only $500 more than the rust repairs on both sides.

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post #9 of 10 Old 02-01-2014, 04:25 PM
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I'm in the market for a new complete bed myself. Not only do I have the rust on the wheel wells but my floor is has 2 holes and my rails are rotting too. It's not worth just doing bed sides, eventually the rest will go too

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post #10 of 10 Old 02-01-2014, 06:33 PM
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I have a guy in North MA that sells complete, new OEM beds, tail gates, everything.
About half the price of what dealers sell them for.
I was out the door with the bed, gate, bed caps, emblem, mounting bolts and nuts, $2800.

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