Door Seal Mod????

[veronese1]

Anyone know about the Door Seal Mod on Super Dutys?

Inserting 3/8 Latex Tubing in seal to reduce air noise???

I want to do this but I have no specifics.

[Rodslinger]

First I've heard of it but it sounds interesting. Anyone?

[Logan]

Not sure, this is a new one on me?

[stump0331]

yeah i searched my butt off for this one couldnt even find a hint

[veronese1]

goto:

www.thedieselstop.com

The topic is posted there.

[stump0331]

can you get a direct link to it , im not comming up with anything in the search

[veronese1]

http://forums.thedieselstop.com/ubbt...=0#Post3053838

[stump0331]

found this, i think its for an excursion though:
Just finished the door seal "upgrade" and AC line insulation in same day.

All day project for someone who doesn't change his own oil! After I built my first rod in HS and did a little street racing, I decided brains beat brawhn (and it pays better, usually).

Completed all passenger doors, back doors and lift gate. Used 3/8" around doors except B-pillar and C-pillars for front and passenger doors, respectively; and D-pillars for back doors. Used 1/4" on pillars to completely close doors; 3/8" would not catch 2nd latch.

Something that I had not seem mentioned in either thread on this task. The weatherstripping can be easily removed from all the doors; it is not a continuous piece. It will have a place that the two ends come together, which can be pulled apart. Check the forward lower area of the door for the connection seam. It is held together with a 2" foam plug, which can be pulled apart and removed easily. It is MUCH easier to insert the 3/8" tube from the end of the weatherstrip tube and you don't have to cut extra or enlarge weep holes. I is even easier if you just remove the strip completely off of the door, insert tubing, and reinstall. No tools required. And you don't tear your weatherstrip trying to stuff the tubing in through the weep holes. Soapy water in the weatherstrip and on the tube makes life a lot easier, too. Adding straight detergent to the tubing to lube during insertion helps too. But it is a trade off; the tube will be slipperier. Use a cloth to grip the tubing to insert, but do not wipe all of your "lube" off. If you take the strip off, mark the area that you will need to use different size tubing before removing from door frame. After learning all of this on the first door, it was a LOT easier.

Back doors and lift gate: 3/8 " all around, including the top of the doors for the bottom seal of the lift gate. One problem area was hinge side of both gates. Had to use 1/4" again like passenger doors to completely close. Only needed on pillar for doors; all else used 3/8".

Takes a little more pressure to close doors. Didn't need hardly any additional effort for lift gate. Now the doors close like one o' 'hem furn jobs!!! Have to pop your ears. Didn't take it on the road yet; tomorrow. Just sitting it is quieter. Have cat-back duals after muffler with 18" x 5" chrome tips at 45 degrees behind rear wheel wells (not quite a big block sound, but it still gets a second look!). They were significantly quiter. Can hear highs and lows on stereo much better. But the true test will be if I can use a hands free cell phone setup on the highway @ 80 mph. Then I will be a true believer.


at this thread
http://www.supermotors.net/clubs/for...2&postid=27336

hope that helps a little

[veronese1]

Today, my wife & I did the Door Seal Mod.

I purchased the 3/8" Vinyl Tubing from Lowes, 4-20' Lengths for my CC. Total was about $16.00.

The door seals come off very easy. Remove the snap in kick plates and the door seal pulls right off the cab seams. No adhesives. Mark where the seam is on the bootom for easier re-installation.

I sprayed some silicone into the open channel on the door seal and used a fish tape to snake thru. Tied a string to the fish tape pulled the string thru, then drilled a small hole on the end of the tubing attached the string and pulled the tubing right thru.

Once I figured out the game plan on the 1st door, each other door only took 10-15 minutes.

It took an hour all together. All the doors close ok, except for the drivers door. That one is really tight. I think it will be ok after the molding & tubung settle a little.

I havent driven the truck, we did the mod after detailing the truck to cover it, as I am leaving for a trip on Tuesday. However, I did have to move the truck from one side of the driveway to the other before covering it, and I can say the cabin is dead quiet. No engine noise at all.

I look forward to driving it when I return.

[JBakerFX4]

I'd like to see pics....