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post #1 of 9 Old 09-29-2012, 10:23 PM Thread Starter
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Detailing Questions

I just bought an '07 F350 CCLB and put a shell on it. Its white. I washed it for the first time today (brought it home two days ago) and saw tons of little rust specks on the bottom half of the body. I read that its little metal shavings that didn't get cleaned off and that clay barring the truck will get rid of them.

My questions:
1) Does the clay barring and wax job need to be done one right after the other or is the next day fine? I read that it can take a while to do especially because of the size of these trucks.
2) Is it worth it to pay a pro to do this for me or is it pretty idiot proof? I don't want to screw anything up.
3) How much would I be looking at paying ballpark?
4) There are some little specks of tar that I didn't quite get all off. Would those need to be removed BEFORE clay barring it or is it okay to get them removed with the clay? The wife was waiting to go to supper and I didn't take as long as I might otherwise have. Still took a super long time though.
5) My 5" tip looks like garbage because of all the tar on it and it is pretty scuffed up in a few places. How do I clean that up?
6) I bought the truck with 315/60/R20 Toyo MT's and they seem pretty soft. Are they the culprits that are responsible for all the tar on my body?Would putting mud flaps on my truck help to keep the body cleaner? I will rarely make it off road.
7) How much cleaner are we talking about?
8) Are all clay bars made the same?
9) What would you recommend?
10) How many bars will I need for my CCLB and shell?

Thanks guys, I'm 29 next month and this is the first vehicle that I have ever owned that is halfway decent. I have always owned "ok" cars but never anything real nice. I want to baby this thing and have it look fantastic for years to come. With this in mind, I have a lot of learning to do. I have waxed a car only once and am not even sure if I did it right.

2007 F350 6.0L FX4 Lariat CCLB
MBRP 4" w/ 5" Tip turbo back, no cat
Toyo MT's 315/60/R20
Edge Insight CS w/EGT probe
SnugTop Super Sport
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post #2 of 9 Old 09-30-2012, 12:01 AM
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Clay barring is pretty straight forward. As you pointed out it takes a while so claying one day and waxing the next is good. Use plenty of lubricant with the clay and keep the clay moving. Fold it over on itself ever now and again.

Specs of tar, try some GooGone or check at the auto store for some tar remover. It wll help if the specs are off before you clay.

Your tip, you may need to get some metal polish to clean it up.

Mud flaps would help.

I've used Mother's and Meguiar's Clay bars. Both seemed to work the same, for me anyway. One clay bar should do fine. One thing to do is, split the bar. Use half at a time in case you accidently drop on part. You don't want that stuff rubbing on the paint.

Have some aspirin on hand. Your arms will be sore. Have fun!!


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post #3 of 9 Old 09-30-2012, 05:10 AM
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this may sound harsh, but EVERY VEHICLE i have owned , everyone says looks great......my steps to care is if i am planning on waxing, i will wet the vehicle and the spray sections prior to washing with a degreaser or all porpuse cleaner ( usually purle power ) it takes everything that is on top of the paint off. i just recently started using clay, it is simple but keep it lubed.... i recommend only using micro fiber rags for all steps. during normal washed , i may hit a spot with a degreaser, but i always follow with a quick spray wax for some protection.

alos, always try to clean the vehicle when the paint is cool to the touch.

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post #4 of 9 Old 09-30-2012, 07:04 AM
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For your exhaust tip, get some Aircraft paint remover and spray it on there and the stuff will melt right off just dont get it on anything else or that will melt off too.

If I am about to do a full detail including wax and clay barring I wash the truck with Dawn or something like it. That way you remove all the way and junk and are starting with a clean slate. It doesn't take to long to clay bar. Something cool to do is before you clay bar it put your hand in a plastic grocery bag and rub your hand over the paint then do it after the clay bar. You will be amazed at the difference.


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post #5 of 9 Old 09-30-2012, 08:08 PM
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Go to Adams polishes web site. They can answer all of your questions!!!
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post #6 of 9 Old 09-30-2012, 09:30 PM
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Ok to clean your exhaust tip up real well without using a ton of chemicals, grab yourself a sos pad with soap and start to scrub, makes them look pretty darn good again. I use sos pads on my Kenworth exhaust tips all the time and they are always shiny. As far as clay barring to get rid of the tar spots on the paint, get some lacquer thinner apply some to terry cloth towel, start scrubbing in one area. Rub until clean, then let dry, apply wax, will feel smooth as can be. Use to detail cars when i was younger, learned alot of tricks when you dont have the right stuff in stock at the time.

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post #7 of 9 Old 09-30-2012, 10:21 PM
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Here's my way of cleaning my vehicles. I will post a picture of how my '08 paint looks like.

1) Park in the shade, allow the paint to cool, and rinse with a power washer.
2) Prepare two buckets full of water, one with the car soap of your choice (I prefer Meguiar's NXT), and the other with just clean, warm water.
3) Wash small sections of the vehicle at a time using a clean sheepskin mitt (or similar), rinse the mitt in the water bucket in between sections, rinsing the section with a steady (not harsh) stream of water, and refilling the mitt with clean suds.
4) Spray the wheels with a wheel cleaner, allow it to soak in for a minute, and then wash with the mitt and some clean suds. Rinse the wheels with a steady stream of water.
5) Dry the vehicle with a microfiber absorbent towel.
6) Begin clay barring with the kit of your choice. I prefer Mother's of Meguiar's, as they give you more clay to work with. Be sure to take your time and work in small, circular motions.
7) Use a compound or polish of your choice, but take a few breaks, as this will really begin to hurt your arm! Polish is hard to remove by hand! But this will ensure that any swirl marks will be diminished, and will give the paint a deeper shine.
8) Follow up with a carnauba cleaner wax. I use Meguiar's standard cleaner wax, but P21S is an excellent wax if you don't mind spending the extra money. I would do several coats, if you have the time and strength. I usually have to stop at two.
9) Finish it up with a nice wax or polish. I have like Meguiar's NXT Tech Wax, but I found my white truck to really like the Nu-Finish stuff that has been around for years. And the protection that stuff offers is amazing. But my Dark Shadow Metallic or Dark Copper Metallic painted trucks haven't liked it very much. It seemed to dull the shine a little bit.
10) Clean the windows with Windex or whatever you choose.
11) Amorall every plastic piece on the exterior, several times.
12) Use Meguiar's Tire Foam on the tires. It will clean the rest of the dirt off your tires, while leaving a deep black shine without too much gloss, or the impossible to remove overspray from other tire shines. This stuff wipes right off your wheels.

REMINDER: Never use a degreaser on the paint. If left on the paint for too long, it will begin to eat the clear coat.

If you need any more in depth help, or some interior or engine detailing help, I'd be glad to assist you.

Blake

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post #8 of 9 Old 09-30-2012, 10:27 PM
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The running boards were disgusting in this picture, but you get the idea.


Blake

2013 F-150 CCSB Oxford White FX4 EcoBoost
Loaded with every option...

2008 F-250 CCSB Dark Copper King Ranch 6.4L FX4
4" MBRP Exhaust w/ Muffler (DPF/DOC Delete), Modded Stock Intake, H&S XRT Pro
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post #9 of 9 Old 10-02-2012, 01:46 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for all the responses. Blake, your truck shine looks fantastic. I did my quick wash on Saturday that will do for now. I need to get some money and supplies so that I can clay and wax it. The only bad part about getting the exterior super nice is that it won't fit in my garage. I'm like an inch too tall to pull it in. So any work that I do on it will only be temporary. I know that claying and waxing it will help it long term and that its important to keep it waxed to keep the boogers off of it, I just wish I would be able to keep it nice and clean longer.

I didn't know that lacquer thinner was safe to use on paint. I have some laying around, also the SOS pad on the exhaust tip will help out too. I would have thought it would be too rough but now that I think about it that is what we used on our Harley pipes to clean the practice cone boogers off. (Police Motor Squad) I'll have to go pick some up.

2007 F350 6.0L FX4 Lariat CCLB
MBRP 4" w/ 5" Tip turbo back, no cat
Toyo MT's 315/60/R20
Edge Insight CS w/EGT probe
SnugTop Super Sport
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