Possible parasitic drain? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 6 Old 04-26-2014, 01:02 PM Thread Starter
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Possible parasitic drain?

First post here, and unfortunately it's an electrical problem I'm new to the 6.0 world (and diesels). Shortly after getting my truck, I went out to start it in the morning and killed the batteries starting it up. Had it jumped and went to work, where I let it run for a little bit to charge up the batteries. Seemed to be working fine. The next morning, I went out to start my truck again and it the batteries died again.

I think you get the idea. The batteries in the truck are about a month old. My multimeter read about 11.7 volts across the terminals when the truck is off. When the truck is up and running, I'm getting about 13.6 volts from each battery, and the alternator is putting out about the same. The alternator looks like it's fairly new itself. It's at the point now where I'm beside myself with what to do, and unfortunately I'm fairly low on funds at the moment, so I can't just throw parts at it. I was looking at the grounding points on the block coming off the negative terminal of the battery, and it looks like there's a bit of corrosion there.

I've already jumped it 5 times in the past few days, and I've heard that low voltages can kill my FICM, so I'm trying to avoid that as well. What should my next step be?
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post #2 of 6 Old 04-26-2014, 01:34 PM
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Check alt. in the morning when engine is cold put your hand on alt. should be cold to the touch, If it's warm or hot diode is bad in alt.
Get new alt. if it's a reman. they are mostly crap.
Have batteries checked just cause their new doesn't mean they are good.
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post #3 of 6 Old 04-26-2014, 03:45 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by letitsno View Post
Check alt. in the morning when engine is cold put your hand on alt. should be cold to the touch, If it's warm or hot diode is bad in alt.
Get new alt. if it's a reman. they are mostly crap.
Have batteries checked just cause their new doesn't mean they are good.

Roger that. Just checked the alt, it was cold to the touch. I'll have the batteries checked, it just seems really odd to me that companies will sell products that may not work, but maybe I'm just naive Thanks for the help!

Edit: Just wanted to let you know, you were spot on with that assumption. Had them charged and load-tested at autozone, and one of my batteries failed the test. Had it tested again after 10 minutes, and it said it was had a 2% charge and failed again, so I really think that's the culprit. I appreciate the help

Last edited by streetroad; 04-26-2014 at 07:57 PM.
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post #4 of 6 Old 05-27-2014, 09:29 PM
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My radio was draining my battery. It was drawing over 1 amp with the truck off.
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post #5 of 6 Old 05-29-2014, 09:07 PM
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Originally Posted by countryal View Post
My radio was draining my battery. It was drawing over 1 amp with the truck off.
What was the process to figure that out?



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post #6 of 6 Old 05-29-2014, 10:17 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by trophy_23 View Post
What was the process to figure that out?
I used a volt/ohm/amp meter set on 10 amp scale. Connected it in series with the cable connected to the drivers side battery(take the cable loose from the positive side of the battery and connect the positive of the meter to the positive of the battery and the negative of the meter to the cable and read the amps. Make sure the meter is on amp scale and not ohms or volts) Mine was 1.28 amps with nothing on. I started removing fuses one at a time till the current draw dropped. Turned out It was the radio fuse. I had also had a problem with the volume on the radio going wide open and not being able to turn it down so I knew something was wrong with it anyway. I'm going to replace it with a in-dash dvd/gps and a back-up camera. Just make sure you have your meter on at least 10 amp scale or you could fry your meter. If you have access to a clamp on amp meter you don't have to remove the cable to check it.

Last edited by countryal; 08-24-2014 at 10:51 PM.
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