Fill it up again Dummy
Join Date: Sep 2012
Location: Central Valley, Sierra Mountains, California
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Did you test the line for power ??
Then test it for continuity to ground. If it has continuity, strip the ends and touch ground/frame with both ends of the wire one at a time. If it is the home run to the signal it should simulate the door closed.
There is also a website 12volt I believe that has all kinds of wiring diagrams for pretty much everything. I know on DIYMA there is access to 12Volt for the wiring details. But most guys there use it for wiring up alarms and car stereo's etc. I believe the entire trucks wiring schematic is available too.
I think there is also a switch in the steering column that is also a part of the system for the key. Now that I think back I read a thread on FTE where a guy was having a similar issue and it was something around the ignition key under the column.
Try going onto that forum and do some searches, there are some pretty sharp guys over there. Bismic1 is a extremely sharp guy and a guy named blade1 has electrical diagrams for these trucks. Blade1 is into the electrical for whatever reason. Try to P/M him about your issue and see how you do.
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2006 F250 LARIAT CCSB 4X4
ARP Studs, O-Ringed Heads
X4 PHP 65 HP Custom Tow Tune
CAT EC-1 Coolant, IPR Coolant filter
Fass-125 to a Adjustable Pressure Reg.
Turbo-back SS 4" pipe, Corsa Muffler -7" Tip
6.4 starter, DC Power 270 w/ AGM regulator
Die Hard Platinum AGM all 2/0 Cables
Fabtech Radius Arms
7" lift w: Icon Progressive Coil Springs
2008 up Carli/Deaver rear springs
2000 Watts of McIntosh Bliss
All riding on some Fatty-Daddy 38/15.50/18 Toyo's