Train horn wiring help - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

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post #1 of 10 Old 06-03-2013, 04:20 PM Thread Starter
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Train horn wiring help

I bought the truck 6 months ago with a set of 8 horns, 4 on each side. There is a solenoid on both sides. One seams to work properly but when I hook up the one on the other side it somehow sets off the one on the opposite side!
Im no electrician so Im having a hard time figuring this one out.

when the good one is hooked up it works as advertised,

when both are hooked up it holds the good one in the open position (pressing the button does nothing)

Ive tried swapping the positive and negative on the bad solenoid but i don't thing it matters as it didnt change anything.

I tried seeing if it was a bad ground on the bad solenoid by running a long wire directly to the negative terminal on the battery, same result....

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post #2 of 10 Old 06-06-2013, 02:40 AM
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There is a short somewhere. I have mine hooked directly to my horn wire.

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post #3 of 10 Old 06-06-2013, 01:50 PM Thread Starter
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The guy who had the truck before me had them wired and I cant figure out how he wired them. The normal horn on my truck doesn't work... or anything ells in the steering wheel. Have replaced the clock spring but didn't help. Im not sure if that has something to do with this. All I know is that there is a yellow wire that he spliced coming from a box directly underneath the steering wheel next to the fuse box, and another one going into the back of the fuse box. One is the power but that's all I can make out. I can post a picture if that would help.

2003 6.0 F250 "Onyx"
4inch lift
35'' Falken Wildpeak AT
SCT FX3 Performance tune
Edge Insight CTS
Edge EGT probe & Fuel Pressure sensor
Blue spring upgrade
Bulletproof Diesel EGR Cooler
Updated Motorcraft Oil Cooler
Sinister Diesel Coolant Filter
Rotella ELC
MBRP 4'' Turbo Back SS Straight pipe
Alpine head unit
Rockford Fosgate speakers
Still need to stud it....
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post #4 of 10 Old 06-06-2013, 02:12 PM
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Which fuse sites it go to?

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Powermax w/KC billet wheel Warren 175/30%
5-8" MBRP Off Road Turbo Back/harpoon
2" Leveling/33' BFGATKO
ELC/PMM Coolant filter
aFe Stage2/EGR Delete


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post #5 of 10 Old 06-06-2013, 02:13 PM
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Do both of them work independently of each other? If not replace bad silnoide. Sounds like coil is shorted out causing other valve to open. If you have a multimeter measure the ohm value of each coil to see if bad coil is shorted.


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post #6 of 10 Old 06-06-2013, 04:36 PM Thread Starter
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I cant tell which fuse it goes to, It gets lost in the mess of wires. The solenoid that is causing the problems is a brand new one. My wiring/electrical knowledge is extremely limited and as far as I know they don't run independently as both are opened by one button. The solenoid causing the problems is a brand new one, I have a multimeter but how do measure the Ohms?

2003 6.0 F250 "Onyx"
4inch lift
35'' Falken Wildpeak AT
SCT FX3 Performance tune
Edge Insight CTS
Edge EGT probe & Fuel Pressure sensor
Blue spring upgrade
Bulletproof Diesel EGR Cooler
Updated Motorcraft Oil Cooler
Sinister Diesel Coolant Filter
Rotella ELC
MBRP 4'' Turbo Back SS Straight pipe
Alpine head unit
Rockford Fosgate speakers
Still need to stud it....
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post #7 of 10 Old 06-06-2013, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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also I tested the solenoid with one of those big 6v batteries, I could hear it open and close so I think that is good?

2003 6.0 F250 "Onyx"
4inch lift
35'' Falken Wildpeak AT
SCT FX3 Performance tune
Edge Insight CTS
Edge EGT probe & Fuel Pressure sensor
Blue spring upgrade
Bulletproof Diesel EGR Cooler
Updated Motorcraft Oil Cooler
Sinister Diesel Coolant Filter
Rotella ELC
MBRP 4'' Turbo Back SS Straight pipe
Alpine head unit
Rockford Fosgate speakers
Still need to stud it....
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post #8 of 10 Old 06-07-2013, 03:21 AM
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I understand they both work together. What I meant was if you connect each valve separately to ground and positive on battery each will work by themselves. To check coils put meter on ohms and measure resistance of each coil do they match. If everything checks out wire both coils together and see if they will work together with one side grounded and other side to positive side of battery.


David


"Hold my beer and watch this"

2005 Excurstion Limited RWD
Sinister EGR Deleate
SCT Tuner MPT Custom Tune Econ/Perf
Dash Boss Monitor
Blue Spring Upgrade
Nitto Terra Grappler 285/75/16
Bilstien 4600 shocks
No Kitty
4" Straight piped
Studded
Updated Stand pipes and Dummy Plugs


1996 F250 XCLB 4x4
4" Ruff Country Lift
Ruff Country N2O Shocks
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post #9 of 10 Old 06-07-2013, 04:21 AM
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Sounds like a wiring nightmare. I'd cut it all out and re wire it. U can get good wiring diagrams on horn blasters website (that's about all that company is good for btw)


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post #10 of 10 Old 06-08-2013, 04:33 AM Thread Starter
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The only thing that worries me about re wiring everything is cutting the wires that the other wires are spliced into. Im not sure what, if anything, it would effect. Ill be giving it another shot today to test the Ohms and see if I cant get it working. Ill post my results and new problems when Im done

2003 6.0 F250 "Onyx"
4inch lift
35'' Falken Wildpeak AT
SCT FX3 Performance tune
Edge Insight CTS
Edge EGT probe & Fuel Pressure sensor
Blue spring upgrade
Bulletproof Diesel EGR Cooler
Updated Motorcraft Oil Cooler
Sinister Diesel Coolant Filter
Rotella ELC
MBRP 4'' Turbo Back SS Straight pipe
Alpine head unit
Rockford Fosgate speakers
Still need to stud it....
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