blowing fuses. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 03-23-2013, 03:16 PM Thread Starter
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blowing fuses.

so when i installed my 55w HID fog lights all was well for the first week. after week one it blew the 10 fuse so whatever no biggie. replaced it. instantly blew the 2nd fuse as soon as i turned the lights on. so now i have popped in a 15A and it seems to be ok but is this ok for the wiring and such? this wont cause me any problems?

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post #2 of 11 Old 03-24-2013, 08:53 PM
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blowing fuses.

There's a reason those fuses are there. I'm guilty myself of just upping the fuse at times but it doesn't fix the problem. I would run through and double check all the new wiring.


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post #3 of 11 Old 03-25-2013, 06:18 AM Thread Starter
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i did and its all in perfect condition. i just figured maybe the new lights are just drawing alot more power so they need a bigger fuse. it just stumped me as to why the first fuse lasted a week and the 2nd lasted 10 seconds. its running fine on the 15 now though lol

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2011 Black CC SB Lariat F250, 2015 Retrofit, MPD IC Piping, H&S Mini Maxx, 5"Flo-pro Exhaust, Sininster Egr Delete, Recon Smoked Lights, No Limit S2 Intake, 20% Tint, BDS 8" 4-Link Lift w/ Fox Shocks & Dual Steering Stabilizer, Toyo MT's, 2-Piece Fuel Maverick 22x12 Wheels, PTM Grille Surround, T REX X-Metal Grille, super bright leds 6500K heads and fogs, kenwood double din, 4 hertz 210W door speakers 2 JL TW3 10s kenwood amps.

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post #4 of 11 Old 03-25-2013, 03:22 PM
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Does the HID kit have an inline ballast? If it does then that may be where the problem is, take the kit back and get another one. I have seen small issues turn big very quickly by people upsizing a fuse.
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post #5 of 11 Old 03-27-2013, 06:38 AM Thread Starter
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yes both bulbs have there own ballast

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2011 Black CC SB Lariat F250, 2015 Retrofit, MPD IC Piping, H&S Mini Maxx, 5"Flo-pro Exhaust, Sininster Egr Delete, Recon Smoked Lights, No Limit S2 Intake, 20% Tint, BDS 8" 4-Link Lift w/ Fox Shocks & Dual Steering Stabilizer, Toyo MT's, 2-Piece Fuel Maverick 22x12 Wheels, PTM Grille Surround, T REX X-Metal Grille, super bright leds 6500K heads and fogs, kenwood double din, 4 hertz 210W door speakers 2 JL TW3 10s kenwood amps.

Thanks to bigblack for selling me his truck
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post #6 of 11 Old 03-27-2013, 02:47 PM
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Then that is probably where the issue lies. I would definitely take the set back.
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post #7 of 11 Old 03-27-2013, 03:06 PM
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Mine did the same thing. The initial amp draw is just above the 10a fuse rating. I put in a 15a and haven't had one problem. Just leave the fuse in and don't worry about it or wire in a relay.
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post #8 of 11 Old 03-28-2013, 12:43 AM
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Best thing to do is use relays. They make relay kits for HIDs, or if you know how a relay works you can make it yourself, but basically you'll be taking power stright from the battery, and stock headlight power will be used to trigger the relays, make sure to use sufficient gauge wire from the battery, and fuse it no more that 8" from the battery, the closer the better.
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post #9 of 11 Old 03-28-2013, 04:28 AM
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Placing a relay or a bigger fuse would work, but if he has a bad or malfunctioning ballast he will need to replace it anyway. Take the kit back, get a new one, add a Bosch relay for protection.
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post #10 of 11 Old 03-28-2013, 09:19 PM
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HIDS draw a lot of in rush current when they first turn on. It is most likely this spike in amperage is just more than 10 amps on initial start-up. For this reason it is probably safe to leave to 15 amp fuse in. However the proper way to address this is to wire in a relay powered straight off the battery, grounded to a chassis ground, and just use the stock fog light switch/ trigger wire output as the activation source to arm the relay. I had problems with my HIDS until I wired mine up with a relay. Before mine were on a relay, at times only one light would turn on and I would have to turn them off and then turn them back on. Go with the relay and don't look back. I have installed numerous HID kits on many different kinds of vehicles. I have two kits on my truck now.


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