Grounding HID's - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 9 Old 11-02-2012, 09:15 AM Thread Starter
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Grounding HID's

Hey guys I wanted some opinions on grounding here on the cross member. These pics aren't mine they are from another member I bought the kit from on here. If you can't read the red sentences it says he drilled a hole through the cross member then used a sheet metal screw then covered it with calking to protect from the elements. This is a RetroSolutions 55w 5000k kit. What do you think, or is there another more recommended spot? Thanks.




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post #2 of 9 Old 11-02-2012, 11:15 AM Thread Starter
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bump .

2003 centennial edition f250 4x4 ccsb auto w/blackwater long block w/arp's, 4" exhaust, airaid intake, ODawg's manifold, itp's reg return, sap modified solenoid, DC power 185amp alt, motorcraft 850cca, Warn Hubs, RS 55w 6k hid's, harley headlights, bpd 58v 6 phase, bpd water pump, dieselsite coolant filter, elc coolant, php gryphon, Xcal2 w/unlimited tow, new hfcm, glowshift fuel psi gauge, icon level kit, 20" kmc hoss, 305/55 terra grapplers TOTALED
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post #3 of 9 Old 11-02-2012, 11:28 AM
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I would think the Rad support would work. If not you can always make some holes through it and run your grounds directly to the battery on each side. Just a thought.


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post #4 of 9 Old 11-02-2012, 11:51 AM
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Any location that is a solid metal spot would work really. Just be sure to sand an area big enough for the ring connector, so that all paint and primer is removed and apply some dielectric grease to that so no corrosion/rust builds up.
Caulking may not be the best of ideas though, since you have to make sure there is no air pockets under it and everything has to be perfectly dry. Even if its humid out, that moisture could get trapped under the caulk and create corrosion in that connection. Hope that gives you some ideas!

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post #5 of 9 Old 11-02-2012, 12:25 PM Thread Starter
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Thanks for the quick input retro I will def consider that.

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2003 centennial edition f250 4x4 ccsb auto w/blackwater long block w/arp's, 4" exhaust, airaid intake, ODawg's manifold, itp's reg return, sap modified solenoid, DC power 185amp alt, motorcraft 850cca, Warn Hubs, RS 55w 6k hid's, harley headlights, bpd 58v 6 phase, bpd water pump, dieselsite coolant filter, elc coolant, php gryphon, Xcal2 w/unlimited tow, new hfcm, glowshift fuel psi gauge, icon level kit, 20" kmc hoss, 305/55 terra grapplers TOTALED
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post #6 of 9 Old 11-02-2012, 12:28 PM
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Yep make sure your ground is solid!

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post #7 of 9 Old 11-03-2012, 05:19 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SuperCrutyPS View Post
I would think the Rad support would work. If not you can always make some holes through it and run your grounds directly to the battery on each side. Just a thought.
With aftermarket electronics, I would not recommend this.

It should be grounded to chassis ground, not battery ground.

Also, make sure your metal is actually connected to the frame.

I've seen metal that was connected to plastic or composite material which is not grounded at all.

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post #8 of 9 Old 11-04-2012, 06:04 AM
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Very true! We have seen it all too often. It may look like a great ground, but it all depends on what it is connected to. Thank you for pointing that out!

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post #9 of 9 Old 11-04-2012, 07:39 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks dfuzz.

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2003 centennial edition f250 4x4 ccsb auto w/blackwater long block w/arp's, 4" exhaust, airaid intake, ODawg's manifold, itp's reg return, sap modified solenoid, DC power 185amp alt, motorcraft 850cca, Warn Hubs, RS 55w 6k hid's, harley headlights, bpd 58v 6 phase, bpd water pump, dieselsite coolant filter, elc coolant, php gryphon, Xcal2 w/unlimited tow, new hfcm, glowshift fuel psi gauge, icon level kit, 20" kmc hoss, 305/55 terra grapplers TOTALED
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