2003 F350 6.0L Alternator Problem - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum

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post #1 of 38 Old 09-04-2011, 05:08 AM Thread Starter
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2003 F350 6.0L Alternator Problem

I have a 2003 6.0L F350 with 208,500 miles on it. Around 170,000 miles the OEM alternator died and I replaced it with a Duralast 110 Amp model from Autozone. This was the one they pulled up for my truck. I use this truck for work and was stranded out of town at my hotel which is why Autozone ended up being the parts store I used (closest to me).

Long story short replaced it, brand new batteries a week prior and all was well. Fast forward to January of this year and around 185,000 miles I decided to have my serpentine belt replaced as it was squealing and looking a bit worn. Almost immediately after replacement I started noticing that my engine seems to pulse and my lights (especially headlights) brighten and dim when driving. This is much more prevalent when I first start out in the morning.

I taken readings on my batteries at start up and they start out just over 13.0 V and when started hesitate for about 30 seconds and then start to climb to around 14.5 V. I do see a fluctuation on the volt meter of around 14.3 V to 14.7 V when the engine pulses.

My thoughts are that the alternator is to blame and the rectifier is the most likely suspect as the voltage is not constant. It's just weird that this happened right after I had my belt replaced. The garage I take it to says the batteries and charging system are fine, my volt meter tells me otherwise.

Should I take this alternator back to autozone and replace it? It's under a lifetime warranty. Also is the 110 Amp undersized and should I just upgrade to a better one? At this point I'm not worried about taking the hit on the warranty from Autozone, just want my truck running right again.

One last note is since I started having alternator issues I've noticed when I'm off road for work that my four wheel drive does not always engage automatically. I've had to get out and lock my hubs to make sure it was engaged.
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post #2 of 38 Old 09-06-2011, 07:33 PM
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The alternator will not start charging until after the glow plugs shut off, this can be up to 2 min and is based on temperature. It is perfectly normal for the engine to run 3 min until you see battery voltage of 13.8 –14.2 volts. This sounds like the alternator you have is working fine , but a 110 amps may be a tad bit small.


The problem with the 4WD is most likely a vacuum leak.
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post #3 of 38 Old 01-23-2012, 02:11 PM
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I have the same problem but worse.. I just replaced my alternator on November 28th.. Today I barely made it back home, then the truck died in my driveway shortly after arriving. I only noticed sluggish starts this morning and then later on while driving the whole instrument cluster shut off.. Is this another bad alternator or is this a bigger problem, maybe something else frying the alternators.. I checked all the fuses, all with good results...please help
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post #4 of 38 Old 09-25-2013, 12:15 PM
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2003 FOrd F350 6.0 checked voltage at alternator plug, found 12 volts on one side 1.7 on the other side , alternator not charging. Battery voltage 12 volts. What voltage should I read at the alt. Plug for the alternator to charge
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post #5 of 38 Old 09-25-2013, 12:25 PM
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2003 F 350 6.0

ALternator not charging battery fully charged alternator plug 12 volts on one side 1.7 on the side. What voltage is needed on the plug for the alternator to charge?
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post #6 of 38 Old 02-04-2014, 06:13 PM
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I am experiencing the same problem as the OP. Did you happen to ever find a solution? My headlights, dome lights, and even myback lights for my dash pulsate as u were talking about.
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post #7 of 38 Old 02-08-2014, 02:42 PM
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I had a siilar problem and got this no problem since

250Amp High Output Alternator Ford E F Series E450 F450 Excursion 6 0L 2003 2007 | eBay

early 04 f350 6.0 cclb lariat sr
Bulletproof oil &egr, elc, sct x3, edge CTS, afe intake, blue spring, t-500, MTW stage 2, Vivians looney, 305 x55x20 bfg at ko's, 4 inch cat back, 4"BDS fox shocks and steering stabilizer, tri pilar gauge set, sinister coolant filter(this is the ONLY pos sinister product that will ever be on my truck), riff raff boots, new headliner, 7 inch touch screen w/back up, new carpet, near whole new interior,


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post #8 of 38 Old 02-14-2014, 05:34 AM
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Originally Posted by john galt View Post
John, have you checked hot idle amperage output on that alternator? I would love to have a DC Power alternator but they're a bit spendy.
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Shawn
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post #9 of 38 Old 02-15-2014, 03:26 PM
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I would also check all of your grounds. The one on the drivers side frame rail near steering box is known for corroding. But l would clean all connections and put some red wheel brg grease at every connection.
Then take a close look at your fusable link for corrosion and resistance. Test it by starting truck and running for at least 2 minutes with every accessary on. Test voltage on both sides of the link. If there is lower voltage on either side it's a problem.

These trucks have a horribly underpowered alternator from Ford and the minimum sized alt really should be 140amp.
I put a 190amp on my truck and it was the best money I have spent on it next to the ScanGaugeII.

Check ALL CONNECTIONS
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post #10 of 38 Old 02-16-2014, 03:26 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhatlen View Post
But l would clean all connections and put some red wheel brg grease at every connection.
I agree except instead of wheel bearing grease I would use di-electric grease.

Shawn
2007 F-350 King Ranch FX4 LB Tow Boss DRW
SCT LiveWire, Atlas 80, WPE tunes, Blue Spring, Holders 175/30 injectors, KC Turbos Stage 2, Magnaflow Dual Tip 5", AMSOIL BMK-21, PMM Coolant Filter, Zoodad MOD, CCV MOD, AFE Pro Dry S OER Filter, Final Charge ELC, 08 style mirrors, SAP Diesel DD Solenoid, Derale Transmission Pan, Mishi CAC Tube and Boots, High Idle Mod, more to come..,
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