Weird things happened after HID install... - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 7 Old 06-01-2011, 02:02 PM Thread Starter
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Weird things happened after HID install...

Ok so ive put HIDs in about everything ive owned over the years. plus put many other kits in for friends. Ive seen it all from the junk to cream of the crop.

Personally i like DDM tuning (not their shipping times though) but they have a decent set up. I purchased HIDs for the headlights about 10 hours after buying my truck last year. Ive had them installed and working great since.

This past month i have a couple bucks to spare and bought new Fog Light housings and HIDs for my fogs. Both sets from DDM tuning.

Finally got around to installing them this past weekend as well installing my audio system.

Now since the HID install, ive noticed something extremely odd.

When ever I initially start the HIDs, i have 3 things happen. When they light, my ABS light will come on for about 4-8seconds and then go out. My EGT gauge which is on my pillar and is tied into my radio harness will drop to the rest position. And last thing that will happen, if I am moving my Speedo will drop off anywhere from 10-30mph. Both gauges will do their dropping and then end up back in the position they belong. The abs light goes out and thats it. I can get this to happen every time I initially light the HID's. Now if i shut them off let them be for a little and relight the HIDs same thing will happen.

The fog lights ballast boxs plug right into the factory harness. No splicing or tapping into any wires at all. Easiest plug and play ever! My glowshift (not the biggest fan, isspro's on the way) gauges are spliced into my radio harness.

I have been around cars/electrical wiring for a long time and im a technician and for the life of me have never seen this happen.

Whats really getting to me is not one of the 4 things, the hids, the speedo, the egt gauge, and abs light have anything to do with one another. Im kinda at a standstill with what and where is should go at this point.

If anyone has any information that may help or a direction to take. i appreciate it.

thank you in advanced.
Jason

-Jason

--I shoot a Nikon D300. I carry a Smith & Wesson. I race a 1997 BMW E36. I wrench with Snap-On.
I Boost a 6.0Powerstroke --

--I donít Fail; I succeed at finding what doesnít work--

--Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you--

--If you can leave rubber from the apex to the braking zone, you have enough power--

--2004 F250 Crew Cab Short Bed FX4--1997 BMW 328is--
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post #2 of 7 Old 06-01-2011, 02:15 PM
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I would think that you are getting feedback from one of those circuits, likely the PCM since I believe that it controls the speedo and I thought there was something for the auto volume adjust based on speed that inputs to the PCM as well.

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post #3 of 7 Old 06-01-2011, 04:47 PM
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You need to isolate the ballast boxes for the HID's. They emit a high frequency that will screw with the electronics and could be fatal to computers. Friends of mine have HID's on their motorcycles and when not isolated properly, have killed speedos, tachs and have affected the ecu's, although not permanently.
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post #4 of 7 Old 06-01-2011, 04:49 PM Thread Starter
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Ok Ive never has to do that before. And how would I do that. Because I dont have any issues with my headlight hid boxes.

-Jason

--I shoot a Nikon D300. I carry a Smith & Wesson. I race a 1997 BMW E36. I wrench with Snap-On.
I Boost a 6.0Powerstroke --

--I donít Fail; I succeed at finding what doesnít work--

--Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you--

--If you can leave rubber from the apex to the braking zone, you have enough power--

--2004 F250 Crew Cab Short Bed FX4--1997 BMW 328is--
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post #5 of 7 Old 06-01-2011, 08:01 PM
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Keep them away fron looms and junction boxes. Some have mounted hem in steel boxes to help scramble the "noise".
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post #6 of 7 Old 06-01-2011, 08:03 PM
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its actually the bulb connectors. the connectors where the bulb plugs in to the ballast shorts out to bare metal. i figured it out on mine and i have the same problem. i just dont know how to isolate the connectors yet.

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post #7 of 7 Old 06-02-2011, 03:01 AM Thread Starter
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Mine ballast boxes are actually mounted up on the compressor brackets, out of the way and not anywhere near any wires or sensors

I have read else where not powerstroke.org but another car forum to try and wrap with electrical tape to isolate the box. And they were having issues of the car goig into limp mode. Once they wrapped it. Problem solved. I may be trying that this weekend

Jason

-Jason

--I shoot a Nikon D300. I carry a Smith & Wesson. I race a 1997 BMW E36. I wrench with Snap-On.
I Boost a 6.0Powerstroke --

--I donít Fail; I succeed at finding what doesnít work--

--Horsepower is how fast you hit the wall and torque is how far you take the wall with you--

--If you can leave rubber from the apex to the braking zone, you have enough power--

--2004 F250 Crew Cab Short Bed FX4--1997 BMW 328is--
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