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| 6.0L Electronics Discussion TV's, Radios, everything electric and NON-Performance. |
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Stereo Time
Well it's about time I decide to actually upgrade my stereo. Right now I just have a Kenwood Excelon DNX6960 deck.
So I'm looking for advice on speakers, subs, and amps. Right now, I'm looking at getting Infinity 6832cf (front) and Infinity 682.9cf (Rear). I just don't know what amp I want to drive them. I was thinking of a 1000watt but that seems excessive. But on the other hand I had a 500watt 4 channel in my Dodge that couldn't handle 4 Kenwood Excelon speakers, so is their a comfortable medium for a speaker amp? As for subs, I'm getting the Dual 12" SPL2K Sealed box with 2 Pioneer TS-SW300154 subs. I know it's probably excessive and I would perfer a single sub, but the only box for a single sub that SPL2K offers is ported and I'm not a fan of ported boxes... What would be a good amp to run with those 2 subs? Lastly, can someone school me on capacitors? What do I look for size wise? I only ask because after the system on my dodge, I don't need to have another vehicle that has dimming lights everytime the bass hits. |
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Ok ill try to answer all your questions either in my opinion or to the best of my knowledge.
I would ditch the 5X7 or 6x8's and do a nice set of 6.5" speakers with a set of adapters for front and rear. You will get better sound and less distortion (according to an RTA). For a good amp.. I would look at your power requirements and go from there. take the peak power of your woofers and multiply that by .707 then by 2 that is what you need for RMS power from your amp. Go with a brand you know (JL Audio, Alpine, Phoenix Gold, ect.) Dimming lights are not due to a capacitor not being present. It is due to your charging system not providing enough power. While capacitors will add a little stiffening they will only last for the first couple of initial surges being pulled from your amp. If your riding the line of your charging system then yes a Cap would be the answer but if you charging system (ie. alternator/battery setup) is not strong enough for your amplifiers then you will need to start upgrading there. With a little math you can find out what size alternator you will need. Efficient amplifiers will help in this department as well. Rule of thumb is 1 Farad per 600 watts of power. |
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Thanks for the info. I'm uncertain about the capacitor since I have the dual alternators but I guess that is something I'll have to find out blindly. I really don't want to spend the money if I don't have to... But math is my forte so I'm sure I can figure it out with a little more research on what amps I choose to go with
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With the dual alternator Setup i think you will be fine provided your batteries are strong and your amps aren't pulling gobs of current.
Last edited by MPTonyT; 09-15-2010 at 10:37 AM. |
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After some more research last night, I'm going to need a fairly good sized amp to run the 2 subs and about 700 for the speakers. I'm going to take your advice and go with the 6.5". I've still got some more research to do but I'm really liking the Infinity Kappa 60.9cs component speakers right now.
Just trying to figure out where I'd want the tweeters. I'm thinking on the pillars, but I'm worried that on the driver side the gauge pod may cause me some trouble, so my other option would be on the top of the molding where the seatbelts are... |
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I currently have my tweets mounted in the pillars, even with a gauge pod. If i had to do it again i would go this route though....
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I have the Hifonics zeus series comp 6.5's up front, and the 6x8's in the rear. Powering them with a Hifonics 4 channel. Can't beat these speakers for the price. I have about 80w going to each speaker. It gets louder than you can stand it before they will distort.
I also have a 12" Vmax powered by a sundown SAZ.1000D
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Definitely go round and definitely go components. A little more work but worth it in the end. Do it once, do it right.
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