5R110W rebuild specialty tools/etc. - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 9 Old 09-20-2011, 04:05 PM Thread Starter
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5R110W rebuild specialty tools/etc.

I am about to rebuild my 5R110W with the suncoast ironpac 3, billet input, and a triple disc converter . I have the ATSG manual and noticed there are quite a bit of tools i need. If anyone has ever seen the inside of these or can tell me the tools that i ABSOLUTELY need that would be much appreciated. Can I get the oil pump and center support out with out special tools?? I cant spend but maybe $3-400 on tools. any tips would help too

If only i could rent them from somewhere.....

Morgan

s362 over an s478
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post #2 of 9 Old 10-06-2011, 07:15 PM
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Need a slide hammer

You need a slide hammer to remove the pump. Any slide hammer will do. I have a metric bolt welded to a nut that fits the end of my slidehammer.

2005 F-350 6.0L, 6" Suspension Lift, 35x12.5 tires
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post #3 of 9 Old 02-20-2015, 04:34 PM
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I realize that this thread is really old and please accept my apology
for digging it back up from the dead or near dead.

Can you tell me what the size the bolt is that you have welded
onto your slide-hammer? I have a 5R110W that I will be doing
a postmortem on in the next few weeks.

At least I am not in a rush to do anything with it. Ed at Ficmrepair
got me a good price on a Ford reman. But I still want to know why
this one kicked the bucket. I am leaning towards a coast drum
weld failure.

Thanks for the help. Sorry if I goofed op posting this here.


Sean
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post #4 of 9 Old 02-20-2015, 04:57 PM
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your welcome to post but just FYI

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post #5 of 9 Old 03-04-2015, 02:47 PM
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snap on makes an adapter that goes on to the slide hammer. Its cheap. It threads into the pump threads. No need to weld it.

Things you'll absolutely need are a good, compact clutch spring compressor, output shaft nut socket, varies sets of snap ring pliers, long flat blade screw drivers, and you'll need to make a tool to lower the forward geartrain into the case as an assembly. I modified a coat hanger. You'll also need to make dowels to align the pump halves when you put it back together. If its not perfect it wont work. These dowels are also used to install the pump into the case.

You wont get out of it for less than 300$ if you dont have any of these. If you have NOTHING, then plan to spend at least 450-500$ on tools for the transmission only.

Last edited by matthewd11; 03-04-2015 at 02:53 PM.
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post #6 of 9 Old 03-04-2015, 04:27 PM
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Thanks for the info. I have most of all the trans kit.
Well it had the pump pins and the valve body pins.
The output shaft socket is also in that kit along with
a set of air test plates. Sadly is does not have the
lifting tool or the 307-S383 Coast Clutch Assembly
Removal/Installation Tool. I think I can make one after a
bit of thinking I ended up making a pump puller with
some bolts of the right size. I think I should be able to make
the things I don't have in that kit. The one part of the lift/lowering
that is in the kit happens to be the shorter part of the tool.
So I am missing the longer arms that have the notches for catching
the side of the shell so you can lower it in safely.

I was looking at the dead trans last night and the coast clutch
just blows air and the forward clutch does noting when you
apply air with the air test plates in place. I'll be digging in deeper
tonight to see what the clutch/piston assemblies look like.

Thanks


Sean
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post #7 of 9 Old 03-05-2015, 03:22 AM
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There are no valve body pins.

You dont need the coast clutch removal/install tool. Just remove it in pieces.

Could have a bad forward clutch piston or completely roasted clutch set. As far as the coast clutch they are rarely used. I'm surprised it does not work. I have seen the drums develop pin holes or cracks on the coast clutch before but it is very rare.
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post #8 of 9 Old 03-05-2015, 11:18 AM
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By pins for the valve body I should of said assembly alinement pins that
are removed after and replaced with bolts.I also have the set for the pump.
I don't have the big band that is used to do the outer edge seal. ? I read
somewhere that they can be made with some wide clamp bands

The Coast clutch was blowing air like crazy. I did pull all the assemblies
out in sections. Will just need some tools to reassemble or make some for that.

But something went bad. The oil smells nasty and does not look that good.
It just got a partial changed back last spring. No big shrapnel but there is a lot
of fine stuff on the pan pickup screen. Looks more like friction material. The one
place I can't really check is the converter with out having it cut.

But heck I am learning and having fun. New skills are always good to have.

Also I really want to thank all of you for the help. This is why some forums do so well.

GOOD PEOPLE.

Sean
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post #9 of 9 Old 03-08-2015, 08:40 PM
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Well I got all the sub assemblies out and on the bench. You know when your
looking at something and not really looking at it? I had the coast clutch out and
the overdrive planetary gear set turned over looking at all the friction material
in there. I happened to look over at the rest of it and saw some thing I thought
looked odd. 1/2 or a snap-ring. So I looked closer and fount the other 1/2 of
it along with the spring set that was not even close to seated.

So I guess problem found. But I still want to take the rest down to have a look.
Can't wait to have a look at the clutched in the coast clutch. With all the fragments
all over the inside of the trans I bet it cooked a bit. Or should I say overdone.


Sean
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