06, F350, Love 6.0's, rough idle and stalls out when warm - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 07-24-2014, 09:57 AM
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06, F350, Love 6.0's, rough idle and stalls out when warm

I have been following a number of threads on 6.0's idling rough after warm up and created my own hierarchy to try solving the problem. My truck is 2006, F350 with 234000 on the odometer. I did and EGR delete, new oil cooler and HPOP about 80K miles ago and the truck has run wonderfully. I was being treated for cancer last year and the truck sat for about 3 months. I started it every couple of weeks, but did not run it. After I got back to work, Norma Jean, as I like to call her started idling rough when warm. Started up fine, ran well until about 40 to 50 minutes of driving and she would shudder and eventually stalled out. I have read that people have spent thousands only to find that they still have the problem. I am self-employed bouncing back from cancer, missed 4 months of work, and not in a position where I can afford that expense. So I started my own list to repair, beginning with the least expensive part working my way to higher expense, as follows:


1. Replaced degas cap and flushed coolant from system, replaced with correct coolant.
2. Changed fuel filters on chassis and top of motor, added diesel kleen to full tank of diesel.
3. Changed oil and filter using T6 and added hot shot secret to oil.
4. Changed ICP and pigtail, I have $100 scanner from Advance Auto Parts, had bad ICP code.
5. Cleaned MAF sensor with correct cleaner
6. Removed and cleaned EBP sensor and cleaned.
7. Checked and replaced CAC boots, upper boot was damaged
Fuel pressure regulator on side of upper fuel filter bowl was changed with hpop, oil cooler and egr delete, these items were completed prior to 1-7

I completed the above work at the same time, drove for about 40 miles and everything was running great.

Batteries checked out, they are less than 2 years old and were replaced at the same time. It does not seem to be a power supply issue. When I started it up this morning, truck started fine, but ran up a small hill and she stalled out and died. I have a 2000 7.3 and I put cables on both batteries from my 7.3 and she had plenty of power to turn over, but is not getting any fuel to turn over.

FICM makes its normal sound when key is on, a consistent buzz, then ready to start, and until now, she fires up. My scan tool is giving me P0403 P0405 codes, but my EGR is deleted so I expect that. One unusual item is the mechanic that had my truck last put in a EGR valve and connected the harness thinking it would turn of the CEL in the cab. Thinking the valve may be bad, I disconnected the EGR clip, to see if the truck ran better with EGR disconnected. Then she started idling rough at startup and ran smoother after warming up, but today, she gave up all together.

I have so much time involved in solving this problem, I do not want to give it over to someone else to fix. Any advice is greatly appreciated, and am hardly a mechanic, but I can follow directions and have working opposing thumbs so I want to stick with this and see it through to the end. Suggested next steps?

Last edited by dutchbuilt; 07-24-2014 at 12:54 PM.
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Old 07-24-2014, 02:35 PM
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xx

I can hear the crickets yawning.

I pulled the batteries from my 7.3 and put them in the 6.0, trucked limped and barely started. Idled, rough for 5 mins and then I shut it down. Fuel does not seem to be getting to where it needs to be even when cold and the motor oil has not been thinned out by heat. Maybe changing the fuel filters again, dropping the tank and cleaning it sounds like a reasonable idea. We here in central tx had a cold winter, which is when my truck was sitting the most. Opinions?

Last edited by dutchbuilt; 07-25-2014 at 03:50 AM.
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:07 PM
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You need to test fuel pressure as well as hook up a scanner that can read ICP pressure, IPR duty cycle and FICM voltage. Those values should give you a better idea of where to start looking. I monitor my engine at all times with my SCT live wire but I hear the Edge CTS works better.
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:42 PM
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06, F350, Love 6.0's, rough idle and stalls out when warm

^^ what he said. You need to get a monitor on it to see what is happening. Scangauge2 is available for about 150$ usually locally at Autozone, advanced auto etc. Most people like the edge cts because you can watch more than 4 PIDS at a time, add egt and fuel pressure sensors, it has a color screen etc, There are too many variables as you I'm sure know at this point for trial and error. Are those stock(original) injectors with 234k on them?
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Old 07-25-2014, 01:53 PM
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The injectors are stock. Trial and error is the only way I have learned anything. Will get scanguage operational.
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Old 07-25-2014, 02:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutchbuilt View Post
The injectors are stock. Trial and error is the only way I have learned anything. Will get scanguage operational.
No harm in that, that's how I learn. I didn't mean it as a negative thing more as if your on a budget/ time crunch theres too many variables to troubleshoot the trial and error way.

Keep us updated
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Old 07-25-2014, 03:03 PM
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I am going to keep posting through to solution

There are way to many variables and I keep reading threads where people are spending 2-3k only to have the same issue arise, and there are a ton of these threads that the owners never posted the solutions. So I am going to 1.) to the extent I am able correct this issue myself and 2.) post through to the solution. I will get the scanner tomorrow and see what I find out. Thanks for posting, and general direction.
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Old 07-25-2014, 03:20 PM
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One more thought, koeo (key on engine off) can you hear your fuel pump running? It should run for about 30 seconds with the key on. You can also remove the filter from the upper housing and hold the plunger down while someone turns the key on, it should fill up pretty quick.
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Old 07-26-2014, 04:38 AM
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I am going to do that this afternoon. The fuel pump and ficm at key on position has been consistent since I owned the truck at 80k. But, if I remove the upper filter and verify fuel is getting to bowl, I can likely rule out fuel issues at least to the bowl.

One thing that was odd, when I removed the drain bolt at the water separator on the chassis, it looked like someone else put in a bolt that was shaved off and stripped, that bolt was hanging on to nothing, I am going to pull that lower filter and see how things look there too.
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Old 07-27-2014, 05:46 AM
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Checking the top filter bowl this afternoon. A ford diesel tech opined that its a failed SCT fitting and mentioned the service book calls for 12 hours of labor and its a $60 part.

When my HPOP was replaced 2 years ago, the work was done by a well respected, diesel only, shop here in central TX. I will look at my service record, but if I was replacing the HPOP, and knew the STC to be a weak link and a updated replacement was available, I would have done it then.
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