Testing the IPR valve smoked it! - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 06-26-2014, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Testing the IPR valve smoked it!

I'm trying to do an HPO air test and I noticed that it wasn't holding any pressure at all. Suspecting the IPR valve wasn't closing, I removed it and put 12V to it straight off the battery and it shorted, sparked and smoked! I was careful to run B+ to the red wire and ground the yellow/red wire. Something I did wrong? Or bad valve to begin with? It's supposed to be a new Bosch unit.
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post #2 of 7 Old 06-26-2014, 05:04 PM
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Your explanation of what you did is correct. How long did you have it connected?

I guess you will find it works with a new one!

Frank
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Stiction Problems - Fix it yourself! - http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...ml#post4509754
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post #3 of 7 Old 06-26-2014, 05:19 PM Thread Starter
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I tried a couple of test runs earlier, and I was careful not to exceed the 90 second limit I read about. I'm not really sure if it worked then or not... Oh well, at least I know what I've got now! I'm just wondering how much that contributed to the overall, hot no-start condition. I have this engine tore down to where I can tell where it's leaking now. Intake manifold, both valve covers and filter cans are off. Guess I'll get another IPR valve and resume testing. Maybe I should get an OEM from Ford, since this one was an aftermarket?
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post #4 of 7 Old 06-26-2014, 05:38 PM
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Just some FYI - so as not to smoke/destroy your IPR while air testing look into getting a fitting that goes into the IPR fitting so you dont need to cycle it on to test.
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post #5 of 7 Old 06-26-2014, 08:59 PM Thread Starter
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That sounds like a much better method, Wrenchslinger. I like that approach much better. I just popped for test fittings and an IPR socket, but I probably will on the next one. Boy it sure takes a small fortune in tooling to work on these things. Doesn't it? What with Auto Enginuity and all, before you know it you're in pretty deep. Nobody knows how to work on Powerstrokes around here, so I figure it's a good investment for my business. I don't either, but I'm learning fast! lol I worked on diesels 20-30 years ago - they were NOTHING like this. A couple of questions if you don't mind: How do I get those standpipes out? Do they just pull out or what? I put a socket on one to see if it unscrewed. It didn't feel like it was threaded, so I left it alone. Can you service all the O-rings and possible leak points from the top side after the HPOP lid is off? This far into it, it would be foolish not to check everything I can get to. Thanx!
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post #6 of 7 Old 06-27-2014, 05:03 PM
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1 - Yes the stand pipes *oil feed pipes in the heads to the oil logs* do unscrew , the early 6.0's take a 18mm socket , the o5 and later take a square drive or hex drive socket. *there are updated stand pipes, be sure an get/use them if they are not allready installed*
2 - Yes you can service ALL the HPoil system O-Rings from the top side, the only part i believe you cant replace from the top end is the crossover tube that goes from the Hpop to the heads, for that you need to remove the tranny.

Advice - after doing your repairs, re do your air test to make sure you got ALL the leaks. A massive leak can and will mask smaller leaks.
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post #7 of 7 Old 07-08-2014, 10:32 AM Thread Starter
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Thanks for that info, wrenchslinger. I've ordered an IPR test plug (the only way to go IMO), complete injector o-ring kits, and the rail nipple o-rings and socket to change those. When they arrive I'll put 'em in and air test again, and go from there. When testing I heard gurgling in the oil cooler. Not sure if that's good or bad. I think I read a post somewhere that said it indicates a bad HPOP? The air test is supposed to be graveyard quiet if there are no leaks, it said. At any rate, thanx again.
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