Confused about HPO air test... - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 40 Old 06-18-2014, 04:01 PM Thread Starter
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Confused about HPO air test...

I'm pretty new to Powerstrokes and could use a little clarification if someone would be so kind. I am working on a '04 6.0L that was mfd. in 8/03. I cannot seem to find an illustration, or air test procedure that fits this engine exactly. There seems to have been a lot of design changes around '03-05. The main issue is: starts fine cold, and when the ECT reaches 123 degrees it starts missing, then the warmer it gets the worse it runs, eventually stalls and won't restart until cool again. I have an air fitting in the left HPO manifold and I am ready to air test. I just need to know how to close the IPR valve. I have the AutoEnginuity software with the Ford module. Is there a way to energize the IPR with that? Would simply turning the key on do it? Or do I need to run jumper wires to the valve itself? If so, which wires do I tap into? There are five. Thanks in advance for your help!
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post #2 of 40 Old 06-18-2014, 04:35 PM
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JPotts says he has had the IPR with just the ignition on. That may be true, but I haven't tried it. I have closed mine with 12v power and also with the AE when doing air tests. Select the IPR to 90% or higher, that works for sure, assuming the IPR is good.

If you run a tap, with the key on, the yellow/red wire needs to be grounded. Since you have AE, you have no need to do it this way.

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post #3 of 40 Old 06-18-2014, 04:59 PM
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they make a tool that plugs into the IPR port so that you dont have to worry about energizing it , then just feed in 100+ psi and wait about 5/10 min for the air to purge all the oil from everything and listen. Now if you have the time an mechanical aptitude for it - The last Hpop I just got done doing, I made a plate to attach an air fitting w/ a rubber air gun tip directly to the pump via the feed pipe and checked w/ valve covers removed , then made a C clamp to clamp off the pipe so the pump was the only thing NOT included in the air test and rigged up a fitting to put in one of the oil log dummy plugs that way i could check to make 100% sure the pump was the only thing leaking.
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post #4 of 40 Old 06-18-2014, 05:46 PM
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Here is the tool I bought to energize the IPR valve. It was simple and just works. It is worth the $50 IMHO. No messing with trying to rig something up.

http://www.amazon.com/OTC-6764-Injector-Regulator-Controller/dp/B008KYNLK4/?tag=viglink26909-20

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post #5 of 40 Old 06-19-2014, 06:25 AM
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The IPR plug and the OTC 6764 are both good methods to close off the HPO system as well.

It only takes about 20-30 seconds to purge the oil out of the HPO system before you close the IPR valve. If using the blocking tool, install it after you have purged the oil for quicker diagnosis.

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post #6 of 40 Old 06-19-2014, 08:35 AM Thread Starter
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Thank you gentlemen, for all your help. I found each of your responses to be helpful. After purging the system of oil and commanding the IPR to 90% I put 120psi to the system both cold, before any symptoms, and hot when it will no longer start. I heard no air leaks when cold, as expected. But when hot I got air hissing on both banks. I looked for smoke, bubbles, etc., and ran my hand over everything hoping to detect a difference in sound pitch, but saw and heard no indication of the source of the leak. This suggests to me that the leaks are down deep, such as injector O-rings. What are your thoughts please?
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post #7 of 40 Old 06-19-2014, 10:23 AM
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edit - misread your post - ramp the air up to 140/150 and try to see if that makes it a more noticeable leak. Assuming your valve covers are off ........ is the air noise louder toward the back/firewall head area? if so it could be that your just hearing the air thats leaking from the Hpop comming out.

Last edited by Wrenchslinger; 06-19-2014 at 10:27 AM.
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post #8 of 40 Old 06-19-2014, 10:28 AM
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You be able to narrow down where the leak is coming from by using a mechanics stethoscope or I just used a tranny funnel.

Some have had luck with a small mirror and flashlight to check the injector top o-rings or the ball-tubes/ball tune o-rings.

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post #9 of 40 Old 06-19-2014, 10:31 AM
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Also a piece of fuel line works good for finding leaks. Hold one side to your ear then run the other side around everything. I like using it because it's easier to get into places.

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post #10 of 40 Old 06-19-2014, 02:27 PM Thread Starter
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You guys offered some really good ideas. The problem is that I only have leaks when the engine is hot. I can't get at that IPR valve in the back with all the turbo shields in place, so the only practical place to run air pressure in is on the left HPO rail. I have to put it back together, run it till it gets up to op. temp. then take it apart again and put the air to it. The right bank has a hugh-jass hydraulic pump on top that has to come off before I can even think about servicing the right bank. Taking it off disables the engine because it is driven by the same serpentine belt as everything else. This engine has been worked on by two other shops before it came to me, and no one could fix it. What with the quality of work I've seen so far, it's no small wonder. They have replaced all the injectors with remans, a reman FICM, a new OEM glow plug relay and glow plugs, a reman HPOP that I know of. I think I'll just go in an change every o-ring in the joint starting with OEMs on the injectors. What can y'all tell me about upgrades? I've been hearing about STC fittings and dummy plugs? What is a dummy plug and where is it located? Is there a branch tube upgrade also? I found a broken piece of cast iron bouncing around on top off injector #2; can't wait to see where that came from! lol Thanx!
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