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Old 06-14-2014, 06:59 PM
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Extreme Oil Temperatures

Hello All,
I'm new to Powerstroke.org but not 6.0L's. I got a problem with my '04 F250 6.0L that I've been dealing with for some time and it has me stumped. The oil temperature has gotten extreme in the delta with the water temp. The current delta is 80 (water 188-195 & oil as high as 272) while pulling my camper. Daily driving the oil temps go up to around 220 or so. All temperature readings coming from a ScangageII

The only hard use the truck gets is pulling my 28' 5ver a couple of times a year, other than that it's just a daily driver to work and town.

Before you jump to the obvious solutions, please read all that I've done to the truck over the last 3 years.

Here's the rundown on the history and repairs I've made
240,000 miles Sept 2011 - Purchased, no prior history available

241,600 miles Jan 2012 - Blue spring fuel regulator upgrade, replace thermostat

- Started seeing higher engine oil temperatures, around 230, because of this....

242,500 miles May 2012 - Replaced oil cooler, Sinister Diesel EGR delete, turbo rebuild, Dieselsite coolant filter, coolant flush (before replacement of oil cooler), CCV reroute

- Engine oil temperatures still high, oil cooler replacement did not solve and I cut open old cooler, not plugged. After trip from Ohio to Sturgis SD, saw temps of 250. I started questioning temperature readings so I ....

246,300 miles August 2012 - replaced EOT sensor

- Truck started to run horrible, had a local diesel shop diagnose as leaking head gaskets, truck was mostly parked until....

247,500 miles December 2013 - new head gaskets, ARP studs, heads milled, new injectors, new IPR, new HPOP, new pushrods, new water pump. Note, while HPOP was out and could see last 2 cam lobes, they were blue like they have been overheated.

- Truck runs good now but oil temps still high, I installed a second oil temperature gage in a billet oil filter cap, temps here confirmed my ScangageII readings as high (though 5-10 cooler)

I am currently on a camping trip and saw oil temperatures as high as 272 while water temps stayed normal. Seems like everytime I take the camper out, the temperatures get higher than the previous time, keeps climbing. My previous thinking was "why wasn't the oil getting cooled" but now my thinking is "what is causing the oil temperatures to get so high" Since I've been all
through the top end, what's left? The bottom end? The oil pump?

I'm about ready to get rid of the truck. I got a trip planned from Ohio to Niagara Falls and back down into PA and am half scared to take the truck.

What do you think? Any ideas?

Thank in advance
knuss3807
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Old 06-14-2014, 09:39 PM
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I wonder if your lpop is weak. If it isn't flowing enough oil, it could cause what oil pumped to overheat. The problem here is if the hpop doesn't get enough oil, the engine will not run.

Did you replace the cam and lifters when the hpop was out and you noticed they had turned blue?

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Old 06-14-2014, 09:46 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teachagmech View Post
I wonder if your lpop is weak. If it isn't flowing enough oil, it could cause what oil pumped to overheat. The problem here is if the hpop doesn't get enough oil, the engine will not run.

Did you replace the cam and lifters when the hpop was out and you noticed they had turned blue?

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I was wondering about the LPOP.

The cam and lifters were not replaced since this would mean pulling the whole engine
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Old 06-14-2014, 09:51 PM
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Originally Posted by knuss3807 View Post
I was wondering about the LPOP.

The cam and lifters were not replaced since this would mean pulling the whole engine
IMHO that was a mistake. I'm not going to go into that, but the overheated cam means everything else is likely blued to. When the bearing surfaces aren't smooth polished they will create more drag, heat, and wear. It's a slippery slope.

Lpop gears are cheap enough. You can have the best radiator in the world, but if you can't move the water through it, it'll never cool down... Kinda the same reason you don't shut off an engine that's overheating. Gotta keep the fluid moving.

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Old 06-14-2014, 10:16 PM
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There is a test fitting on the oil cooler to see what kind of oil pressure its making.


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Old 06-14-2014, 10:54 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Teachagmech View Post
IMHO that was a mistake. I'm not going to go into that, but the overheated cam means everything else is likely blued to. When the bearing surfaces aren't smooth polished they will create more drag, heat, and wear. It's a slippery slope.

Lpop gears are cheap enough. You can have the best radiator in the world, but if you can't move the water through it, it'll never cool down... Kinda the same reason you don't shut off an engine that's overheating. Gotta keep the fluid moving.

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I don't disagree with you on the blued cam but before I do another deep dive into the engine, I'll sell the truck. I'm done sinking big bucks into this thing. I really didn't want to go into the bottom end at the time.

Where's the lpop located? Is it at the front of the crankshaft in the front cover? How hard is it to replace?

It's been mentioned to me that the oil bypass valve probably is sticking, bypassing the oil cooler. What are your thoughts on this?
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Old 06-15-2014, 09:38 PM
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The cooler bypass valve is pretty easy to service. If you loosen the oil filter cover, let the oil drain out, remove the filter. There is a t-27 screw behind the filter standpipe in the bottom of the filter housing. Remove that screw and twist the standpipe 1/4 turn ccw. Then if you take the other 2 screws out, the bypass valve assembly will come out. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DROP THE SCREWS DOWN THE HOLE in the bottom of the filter housing.

My bypass showed a little wear at 126k, but it was more of polish marks than galling or scarring. You can clean it up with some crocus cloth and polish it up so it's smooth. The rubber flap on the bottom should be soft and whole. If the spring needs replacement, I don't know the numbers but at least you'd have an answer that really doesn't cost you any money at all if you have the tools. BTW it too a 6" drill/driver extention on the end of a ratcheting screwdriver to reach the bottom of the housing with the standpipe in.

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Old 06-16-2014, 03:41 PM
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Teachagmech, are you a teacher of Ag Mech? I'm a product of our local vocational school's Ag Mech class, almost 30yrs ago. I credit my teachers for the ability to do my own mechanical work including all that was listed in the OP. Although I'm no longer in the agricultural industry, it led me on the path to my current job (in a twisted roundabout way). My hat's off you all you vocational teachers who put up with us kids!
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Teachagmech (06-18-2014)
  #9  
Old 06-18-2014, 09:07 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by knuss3807 View Post
Teachagmech, are you a teacher of Ag Mech? I'm a product of our local vocational school's Ag Mech class, almost 30yrs ago. I credit my teachers for the ability to do my own mechanical work including all that was listed in the OP. Although I'm no longer in the agricultural industry, it led me on the path to my current job (in a twisted roundabout way). My hat's off you all you vocational teachers who put up with us kids!
Yeah, mostly welding, but I did teach power Mechanics and small engines a few years ago.

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Old 06-21-2014, 12:32 PM
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The bypass valve was replaced today and in comparing the old vs the new, there was no discernible difference. The spring tension was the same, the rubber washer was in good shape.
I pulled my camper on a 30 mile test drive and temperatures are back up again, albeit not quite as high as last time. EOTs were 240 - 245 with a high of 248. Still way to high, IMO. Ambient air temps were a bit lower today.
I hope someone has another idea soon. I got a camping trip to Niagara Falls area in 3 weeks.
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