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HPOP Air Test and New Standpipes

34K views 33 replies 8 participants last post by  jmaynard 
#1 ·
I am tracking down a leak in my HPOP system and have read different stories on air testing. I replaced the standpipes and dummy plugs with the new updated versions when I replaced all injectors about 6 months ago. I have read that the new standpipes will not allow the system to be air tested from the ICP sensor location. I have a mid 04 truck with the ICP sensor on the passengers side valve cover / newer oil rails and older style pump with the discharge tube. Can you air test from the ICP sensor location with the new standpipes?
 
#2 ·
Update - truck just shut down on the highway. When cranking ipr @ 85% and icp doesn't go over 38psi. Within the last 3 weeks have installed new hpop pump, discharge pipe, ipr and ball cups and orings. Any suggestions on a good place to start? Still don't know if you can pressure test with the new standpipes.
 
#4 ·
Thanks for the reply 4506.0

I was told that the new standpipes have check valves in them that will prevent air from going into the system from the oil rail side. I will find out - I am headed to pickup the parts needed to connect to the icp fitting.

Would an injector upper o-ring allow that much pressure to release from the system? When the truck lost power and shut down I watched the ipr go to 85% and watched the icp pressure drop from 1750 psi to 0 psi. Now when cranking I am only achieving 38 - 40 psi pressure.
 
#5 ·
The air test will work just fine with the newer (and older) system. The check valve prevents low/no pressure drain back of oil. I have done this test a number of time. The biggest problem facing some back-yard mechanics is not having a method to close the IPR during the test and then not understanding what is happening during the test.

Test is:
Hook up air to purge the system. After about 15-30 seconds you will hear a lot of air coming from the oil pan. At this point you close the IPR (diagnostic tool or electrical connection) and then search for the air leaks(s). Rails, injectors and other O-rings are very obvious. The HPOP will gurgle in the oil filter housing.
 
#6 ·
I just did an air test on my truck. Only way to be able to track it down. My IPR was 85% and the ICP reading would not go above 28psi..

When looking for a plug for the IPR port.. get an HP3840. It plugs in and most any napa, autozone, etc. should carry one fairly cheap.

 
#7 ·
Thanks twoicebergs. My AE will be here tomorrow so will have a way to close the IPR. I guess I dont understand the check valve. I figured the check valve would not open unless the pressure was coming from the pump side of the standpipe.

Thanks for the info 6.0stroker. What did you find was leaking that caused that low of pressure?
 
#8 ·
My STC fitting on my oil rail on the drivers side had broke...with that low of pressure, sounds like you have a big hole somewhere.

As soon as I did the air test, instantly heard A LOT of air coming out the CCV hole..
 
#11 · (Edited)
OK - So here is what I have found so far. When I leak tested the system I found a leak on the #4 injector. I pulled the rail and along came some of the insides of the injector. Not sure what happened but it ruined the brand new ball cup by putting a deep cut in it. Will exchange this injector tomorrow and then test again.
 

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#12 ·
It appears I have a crack in the oil rail. On the drivers side between #6 and #8 injectors there is a line in the oil rail that goes almost all the way around. When I put it back together and pressurized the system I could see bubbles coming from the crack and could hear a small amount of air hissing out of it. Has anyone seen this before?
 
#16 ·
On my truck an 05 f350 I am getting the 2291 code and have so far replaced the STC fitting and IPR Screen and o rings. The small round O ring was broken. I still have the same problem.

When I cranked it, I got no movement on the Oil Gauge. So I put a normal pressure gauge on it and still got nothing. However when I crank with the oil filter cap off the housing fills within 10 seconds. When i press the little spring in the housing it stops draining as well.

So my long winded question is should i check under the valve covers or the low pressure oil pump next? I did pull the regulator and it was clean.
 
#19 ·
You must be doing something to the IPR, because it will not start to close on its own with the key just on, it will stay at 14%. Am I missing something here? This is why I use the diagnostic tool to close it, ground out the yellow/red wire - cntl- (#2 pin on the PCM), or use a separate plug to provide power to the plug.
 
#23 ·
Thanks I'll try that once I get the batteries charged up again. Had to go on a Business trip came back tried to start it and drained the batteries down. Hopefully I can get it started again to take it to my buddy's shop to test. It wasn't wanting start at all when I came back:what:

Sent from AutoGuide.com Free App
 
#24 ·
I tried turning the key on and it didn't stop leaking. So i borrowed a connector from one of my buddies and manually put it on the battery and the ipr still didn't close. Sure sounds like a bad IPR to me. I will try that today and hopefully that will fix my no start issue. Thanks all
 
#26 ·
I have a question in regards to the air test. I have replaced my cracked oil rail and installed new injector o-rings and the one injector that failed on the drivers side. I filled each injector with oil before putting the oil rail on and then torques everything down. When I apply air to the system I get no leaks for about 1 minute and then I start to hear air moving and a popping sound from the injector area. I used a mirror and looked at the top of the injector and I can see what looks like little spurts of oil popping out of what I believe are the used oil ports. Not sure exactly but it would seem to me that the injector would have to return the oil used back to the system and this appears to be where that is coming from. Is this normal when doing an air test?
 
#27 ·
A small amount may be OK, but any larger amounts would indicate a failing spool valve.
 
#29 ·
I really only have my own truck as a reference, but I just did the air test to find a leak on mine a couple of days ago and didn't notice any leaking from the Injectors at all. I was checking with a mirror as I thought I had a Injector top o-ring damaged from the last time I put the oil rails in.

I would agree with Frank that if it's anything significant the spool valve is done since it's electronically activated and shouldn't be letting oil past in a static state.
 
#34 · (Edited)
Put everything back together and after finally getting it to start ran rough but let idle for about 10-15 minutes. After shutting it down still was hard to start. Took out on highway and got icp to 2500 with ipr at 60%. Got back and shut down and truck restarted like normal. Let sit for 5 minutes and started right back up. Looks promising.

Thanks for all the information!
 
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