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Worse 6.0 news than failed EGR cooler

3K views 17 replies 9 participants last post by  AshevilleEngine.com 
#1 · (Edited)
You guys can search on my threads for more background but I’ll summarize it here.

Vehicle: 2005 E350 Super Duty Van with 6.0 with 80,000 miles and seemingly in very good shape.

I bought it in October 2013, 8 months ago. It was basically fine until recently, when it died on the highway on me last weekend. I was naïve and didn’t realize what I was getting into with a diesel, especially the 6.0. I’ve had nothing but regrets since buying it. Now I’m really stuck.

Last weekend the motor suddenly without warning died at 65 mph on the highway……I lost all power, steering, brakes, was able to nurse it to the side of the road.

For the last several days Ford has been troubleshooting it. Ford reported to me the motor hydro-locked. I was prepared to pull the motor from the van and do the Whole Bullet Proofing, from oil cooler to head studs.

Then Ford finalized the diagnosis and now I’m sick. Ford tells me an injector cup cracked, continually spewed fuel into the cylinder, liquid doesn’t compress, and the rod bent. So now instead of simply pulling the motor and tearing it down for Bullet Proofing, I have to get into the block and replace rods, bearings and who knows what else.

Excuse me while I get sick. I’m into the van for tons of money already, I have no idea what replacing rods and such will cost (in addition to pulling motor and Bullet Proofing). Any suggestions besides pushing the truck off a cliff?

UPDATE: I forgot to mention Ford told me the oil and coolant mixed, there was oil in the Degas bottle, does this make any sense?

Thanks,
Gene, a disheartened 6.0 owner
 
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#3 ·
Unlucky you...

Sorry but welcome to the 6.0h

I have a lot of rods here at Mexico, if you pay the shipments and stuff, you can get some for free, but you will have to make the across the border
 
#4 ·
Update

More info I forgot to mention earlier.....Ford told me there was oil in the coolant, oil in the degas bottle, does this point you trouble shooting experts in the right direction? Now that I have accepted my fate, I'm trying to figure out what caused this meltdown? Temp deltas had been good, unless there was prior egr cooler failure that was not fixed when/if oil cooler was replaced (assumption). Or, with the hydrolock, could the head gaskets go and allow oil and coolant to intermix? I know I'm totally screwed, but still, I'm trying to figure this out.
gene
 
#5 ·
Find a good used engine and swap out the E specific parts to it. If you need to rebuild it completely, you would probably be better off with an engine rebuilder, rather than a local mechanic. You could rebuild it yourself if you have that option and ability.

The oil and coolant is probably a bad cooler. Unless your rod damaged the block, you are probably block OK except for all of the problems a hydro-lock can cause with other bent or twisted parts.
 
#6 ·
Thanks towicebergs, bent and twisted parts? Such as? I assume you mean internal to the block, like, I won't know the extent of the rebuild until I take it apart? This is getting depressing.

If I could approach a tear down with confidence that simply replacing a bent rod is enough for the block, that would be one thing, but how do I know?

If I do pull the motor, bullet proof the whole thing, and replace the single rod, how do I know the rest of the block is OK. With no plugs, no compression, can I rotate the motor by the crank (when on a stand) and verify all cylinders but suspect one are rising to the top and all is turning freely?

Do I pull the motor, check the block, then make a decision about purchasing the BPD stuff before committing that money (if/how can the block can be assessed?).

I'm really looking for help.
 
#8 ·
You could twist the crank off balance, however the rod will usually give before the crank, but you never know until it is measured. If you fix it, everything will need to be measured within spec. That is why I suggested a good used or reman engine.
 
#9 ·
Update, I'm heeding your advice, I'm leery of keeping this short block with potential for latent damage to show up later......so, I found a good diesel shop, they will Bullet Proof (ext cooler, BPD EGR, etc) a reman Jasper 6.0 shortblock and give me a 100,000 mile warranty, for about the same cost as a different shop doing the whole Bullet proof thing to my short block, repairing the bent rod also, so, I'm going with the investment in the reman Jasper with the warranty, I do not have the final estimate yet, but the turn key operation (I really did not want to work on the E350, too tight, and I don't have the diesel experience for this extensive of a rebuild) seems to be about 10k, for all parts and labor.

In your experience, is the price right? Anyone have experience with the Jasper short blocks?
Thx,
gene
 
#15 · (Edited)
I do not know anything about Jasper, but the concept of replacement is better than repairing yours IMHO. It sounds like a core at this point.
The deal sounds very fair to me, turn key that is. Especially if that is an out right price.
If you can keep your old engine yourself, make a project out of it. If not they may even give you a few bucks for a core.

Especially the 100k mile warranty is nice.

I'd Go with it. I do run a large mtce facility and see this type of thing weekly. Sometimes daily. Repairing is good on short turns to get moving or if economics determine. But for long term the oh engine ready to go is a better bet.

Good luck with it.
 
#11 ·
Going Used Complete motor route? Maybe.....

Here is an update on my 2005 E350 Super Duty that now has a blown 6.0 that had some failure, hydro-locked at 65 mph and bent a rod. Now with a suspect short block, I investigated getting a Jasper or other Remanufactured short block (too expensive), investigated replacing the bent rod in my short block (the drawback is I would have no confidence in the rest of the block), or finding a used 6.0 and swap out the E parts for my van application.

The problem is I need a truck (tow boats), I need a van (for my family), I really like my E350 and have $ invested in other parts of the truck which is in great shape (aside from blown 6.0). I don’t want to walk away from the significant investment I already have in my van. If possible I would like to fix it for once and for all. Then it would likely outlive me.

So, I found a Ford dealer that is a Ford Truck dealer only, works on Ford PowerStrokes all the time. They occasionally have (and do now) complete used 6.0s at reasonable prices. They are offered with a six month warranty.

If I had a crystal ball and knew the background on these used motors, and knew the block would be fine with Bullet Proofing the coolers etc, I would go that route. Obviously my concern is putting a lot more money and time into an unkown block and risk it failing later. Is there anything I can request Ford do to test/verify the integrity of the short block before I bite the bullet and buy it, and further plunge into debt over this 6. Uh-Oh?

Anxiously awaiting the always knowledgeable suggestions and advice this forum offers.
Thanks,
Gene
 
#13 ·
Thanks for the info. What you say is exactly why I am not intending to use my existing shortblock. How can I assess a complete used motor to get an idea if the short block is OK is the question.....maybe short of a tear down and inspection there is no way......I'm looking for advice....help needed.....thanks
 
#14 ·
If it were mine, my opinion after running an engine machine shop..replace piston/rod, check other 7 replace all bearings crank and rod. And reassemble


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#16 ·
From my experience, with a lot of 6.0 engines, I'd say with 80,000 miles on your truck, you should buy a short block and have your head thoroughly checked out either by a local machine shop or by the engine builder that you choose. Having built and shipped almost 100 6.0 Powerstrokes this year already, I'd say that you are getting close to the point where half the valve guides are showing wear so you may as well have everything done.
As an example, if we were to build your engine, I'd want you to ship your low mileage heads for us to work with to build you a long block. That way, you know what you have. Unless you are in a hurry, then just buy a long block.
I can also tell you from experience that we had a failed engine come in which was built by a well known engine builder from Indiana in which it had only 3 cylinders bored .030 and the other 5 were left stock. Why somebody would do that is something that I will never understand. Diesel engines are a different beast that gassers and they have to be done right. Look on the internet to see what kind of problems engine builders have reported to help you with your choice. Warranties aren't worth crap if you have to go through the hassle to remove and replace an engine a second time.
 
#17 ·
Ashville engines, what do you guys charge for a long block with ARP's?
 
#18 ·
We don't build a 6.0 without ARP's and I would not trust anyone who does. All of our prices are on our web site and all year models are the same price. Some engine builders ask what model year you have and then tell you that "your" model year is higher than their advertised price. We don't play a bunch of games trying to get more money out of you when you call.
 
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