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*#@%#!*$^#in Oil Cooler, AGAIN!!!

2K views 13 replies 6 participants last post by  a2elvis 
#1 ·
Sorry about the "another oil cooler thread" but couldn't find any useful info in the ten million other oil cooler threads.

I just replaced my oil cooler less than 8,000 miles ago. Hauling the excavator today 48* delta. I know you don't check deltas when towing, but I shouldn't have a oil temp of 236* and water temp of 188*. So WTF..... Cruising 65mph for about 15-20 mins 22-25* delta

Little history, truck has 211K miles on it, I tore it all apart at 204k. I put in 190/30's from warren and new oil cooler, trans cooler, radiator, oem head gaskets, had heads checked and decked. Put it all back together, and fired up on 4-5th crank. Deltas were 2-3* difference, and have been slowly getting worse ever since. I am running cat ELC, and have a coolant filter.

I bought the oil cooler from sunrise ford, it came with instruction sheet from Maxx Force. Im assuming thats the oem replacement, is that correct? Im not looking to buy the bullet proof kit right now(want to get stage 3 turbo first,lol).

What else could be clogging it? I had the truck apart for almost 3 months, the water jackets in the block looked a little rusty when it all went back together, so i dunno if it has all broke free and went straight to the oil cooler or what. I guess I'm going to buy another oil cooler, and see what happens. Any suggestions, comments, or questions to help me with this are greatly appreciated.
 
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#3 ·
What else could be clogging it? I had the truck apart for almost 3 months, the water jackets in the block looked a little rusty when it all went back together, so i dunno if it has all broke free and went straight to the oil cooler or what. I guess I'm going to buy another oil cooler, and see what happens. Any suggestions, comments, or questions to help me with this are greatly appreciated.
It may be a bit of the block rust, but the radiator or heater core are possibilities. Having it dry can create precipitate that cracks or peels free. Depending on the condition of the system prior to your first replacement, you could zero in on the problem. If you didn't try to flush the block prior to re-installing the cooler, that was probably the culprit. You may be able to back flush it.

Also, check to ensure your EOT sensor is reading correctly.
 
#5 ·
I have a feeling that the rust is my problem. I have a new radiator that I got from BPD so it shouldn't be that. This is the 3rd oil cooler in the truck since new. I read a little on the back flush, kinda looks easier to just replace the oil cooler. I need my truck to run everyday for work purposes. (thats why I have it all turned up:hehe:) Should I do the restore and restore plus again. I know one is for rust can't remember which. Where is oil temp sensor? thanks
 
#7 · (Edited)
Cruising 65mph for about 15-20 mins 22-25* delta unloaded.

I haul around 10-11k lbs

Edit: I replaced thermostat about 3000 miles ago too. Do to a low coolant temp. I had little to no heat in the truck. Got it from advanced auto I believe it was a 192* thermostat. ECT never went over 190 today.I hauled twice about 1.5 hrs each time. Flat land, besides over passes
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#9 ·
You may want to check your ECT* when the truck is cold. It is possible that it's off. You should be making more heat than that pulling that size of load.

Unless you have a massive air pocket causing issues, but I can't see that since it's been run quite a bit since you did the work.
 
#11 ·
If that's the case, I would have to agree with the others that you need to do the flush. It just seems odd that your truck doesn't get that high ECT.

Good luck!
 
#12 ·
EOT sensor is right behind/beside the Oil Filter Housing and next to the Turbo Oil Feed.

Restore Plus is for rust. You want to use an acidic cleaner. FWIW, Oxalic acid is suitable and fairly safe to use as well. Unless you know the chemistry and safety precautions, don't use any other type of acids in solution for this purpose.

I would agree that it is fairly simple to replace the oil cooler, after you do the clean and flush sacrificing the current cooler.
 
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