high pressure oil pump 04 6.0 - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 10-26-2008, 09:01 AM
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high pressure oil pump 04 6.0

i have an 04 powerstroke6.0, which was running horribly rough so i put it in the ford shop and they changed the ICP sensor(cost $840) and then not even a month later it quit on me on the interstate, so i took it back and they wanted 2900 to change the high pressure oil pump. so i said no, and took it home. I am going to change this myself, i was a deisel mechanic in the oil field for 5 years, so it should be pretty easy, I was just wondering if anybody has any tips or suggestions, or possible problems to be aware of before i tear into it. any help is greatly appreciated.
THANKS
DEAN
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Old 10-26-2008, 09:52 AM
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If you are inexperienced, this is NOT a job you should attempt yourself. What is the build date of the vehicle? Is this an '04 with an '03 engine (ICP sensor at the back, under the turbo), or a late-build '04 with an '04 engine (ICP sensor on the passenger side valve cover)? If it is an '04 with an '03 engine in it, it is a ROYAL pain-in-the-*** job. The reason for this, is because '03 engines have a crossover at the back of the intake that forces its removal to access the high pressure oil pump. This is not to mention to one 10mm bolt at the back of the turbo, unique to '03 engines, that is extremely awkward to remove. If it's up there in mileage, you will need a torch to heat up the mounting boss side of the turbo, just to be able to crack it loose. Doing so, requires working in "blind man's alley", if you know what I mean.
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Old 10-26-2008, 10:18 AM
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I'm definetly inexperienced in this particular job, but i am more than confident as a mechanic. I just can't see giving the ford dealership $2900 to do it. and it is the 04 with the 03 motor in it. Thanks for the headsup. any more tips will be greatly appreciate, any preference on gasket sets to use, or where to order? the mileage is just barely over 110,000, so maybe that bolt won't be too difficult. Thanks Again. And just to see, are there any diesel mechanics in the florida panhandle area that may want to tackle this job for me? Ford dealership charged me 250 dollars just to tell me what was wrong with it. I don't mind paying, just didn't feel like their price was reasonable.
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Old 10-26-2008, 11:05 AM
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Well, if you still intend on attempting this job yourself, you had better plan on at least two to three days of down time, if you are doing it with hand tools in your garage. For starters, you need to remove the air cleaner assembly (always remove as ONE-PIECE with all three pieces together), and both CAC hoses. You will then need to remove the turbo (three 10mm bolts including the aforementioned pain-in-the-a*s*s one), plus the two 10mm oil supply tube on the turbo itself). You will also need to remove the downpipe and y-pipe clamp (both 11mm or 7/16"). Spray LOTS of PB blaster or WD-40 into the clamps to break them free (especially the y-pipe one). If you are patient enough to have gotten this far, you will see why you were quoted the $2900. At this point you will need to remove the intake and EGR cooler. NOW, is the time to change the original EGR cooler hose (if it hasn't been already). The original one is orange coloured, the replacement one blue coloured (Ford part number RH-153). Don't forget to remove the oil/secondary fuel filter housing assembly. Zip-tie all your fuel line connections so they don't slide downward when disconnected. Don't forget the 10mm bolt that secures the passenger side fuel line to the intake, as well as the two 15mm bolts that secure the fan stator to the intake manifold. If you've gotten this far, now remove ALL the 10mm intake manifold bolts and studs (including the one under the downpipe), paying particular attention to its original locations. If you are replacing the high pressure oil pump, also replace the cover with the IPR valve assembly. Believe me, you don't want to have this apart twice! Order the part by "basic part number" 9G804 from Ford. This part is updated with an enlarged channel that prevents the outlet tube of the high pressure oil pump from rubbing through on the cover. This part is CHEAPER than the IPR valve by itself, go figure! Keep me posted on your progress, or the outcome.
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Old 10-26-2008, 11:07 AM
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Furthermore, don't forget to replace the turbo drain tube with the updated thicker replacement one from Ford (part number 6C3Z-9T515-A)
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Old 10-26-2008, 11:18 AM
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Huge Thanks, these are definetly the kind of tips I was hoping to get. I am going online now to order the parts, i work out of the country and won't be back for 3 weeks, thats when i will be tackling the job. I will definetly let you know how it goes. Thanks for the great advice.
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Old 10-26-2008, 11:23 AM
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wow, thats a horrible sounding Job! I had forgotten that the ICP was at the back of the motor. I was thinking, 840 bux for an ICP??? Is that a normal price??
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Old 10-26-2008, 12:26 PM
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Sorry, the "basic" part number in the Ford Workshop Manual for the high pressure oil pump cover is 6095, NOT 9G804. I don't know the prefix and the suffix of the number. What I do know however, is that ordering the cover INCLUDES the IPR valve (9C968). You'll have to check with a Ford parts guy for the full number when ordering the part, should you choose to replace this as well. Usually with '03 model year engines, if replacing the ICP sensor and connector by itself doesn't fix low ICP issues, the pump itself has taken a dump, from what I've heard, so the dealer that quoted $2900 doesn't sound out of line. It is a VERY tedious task. DO NOT let any dirt or debris get into the engine if you plan on tackling this job yourself.
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Old 10-26-2008, 12:29 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by HVAC SuperTech View Post
wow, thats a horrible sounding Job! I had forgotten that the ICP was at the back of the motor. I was thinking, 840 bux for an ICP??? Is that a normal price??
About $140 for the sensor, $50 for the connector, and figure in about 6 and half hours for labour to replace (@ approx. $100 per hour) sounds about right.
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Old 10-26-2008, 12:52 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by m-chan68 View Post
About $140 for the sensor, $50 for the connector, and figure in about 6 and half hours for labour to replace (@ approx. $100 per hour) sounds about right.
i watched a tech in florida change mine out in 30 minutes on a hot engine. the tech had a very short wrench and came up from the bottom of truck.
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