ruptured oil cooler? plans on repair - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
Powerstroke.org is the premier Diesel Truck Forum on the internet. Registered Users do not see the above ads.
Reply
 
LinkBack Thread Tools Display Modes
  #1  
Old 02-02-2014, 02:23 PM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 

Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 10
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
ruptured oil cooler? plans on repair

i have oil film in the degas bottle and looks like some coolant in the oil, so im guessing oil cooler has ruptured. As far as I can tell no head gasket leaks. I dont know the history of the truck, but can see it still has a factory egr cooler on it. i was thinking if im going to tear into it, ill just fix everything. Install egr delete, oil cooler, updated parts, and if no head studs, pull the heads and install UCF machine shop o-ring heads with studs. what do u guys think?

truck is a 2006 ford f250 xlt 4x4 auto 233k miles

Last edited by billybad05; 02-02-2014 at 07:34 PM.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
  #2  
Old 02-03-2014, 10:54 AM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 

Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 10
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Is a ruptured oil cooler the most likely cause of oil in coolant, coolant in oil?

thanks
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #3  
Old 02-03-2014, 11:05 AM
information regurgitator
 

Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Epping, NH
Posts: 5,941
Thanks: 20
Thanked 185 Times in 172 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
If the oil cooler ruptures, you typically get oil in the coolant because the oil system runs at a higher pressure than the cooling system.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #4  
Old 02-03-2014, 11:20 PM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 

Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 10
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by NYC F-350 View Post
If the oil cooler ruptures, you typically get oil in the coolant because the oil system runs at a higher pressure than the cooling system.
wouldnt you still get coolant in the oil since when the truck is shut off the oil pressure goes to zero, but the coolant is still under pressure?
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #5  
Old 02-04-2014, 06:39 AM
information regurgitator
 

Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Epping, NH
Posts: 5,941
Thanks: 20
Thanked 185 Times in 172 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Good catch. Yes, that is possible.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #6  
Old 02-05-2014, 04:51 AM
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 

Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 95
Thanks: 0
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Second post here, I know, but DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME WITH THE OEM OIL COOLER! I speak from personal experience. And a simple google for search terms for "high eot after oil cooler" or similar will back up my personal experience.
Long story short, there is typically so much crud in the 6.0 coolant system due to poor manufacturing processes during block casting, the crap Ford gold coolant that ALL 6.0's had in them at some point(known for clogging up small passage ways) and due to the havok the EGR cooler can do to the coolant, especially if it is starved of coolant flow due to a clogged oil cooler and flash-boils the coolant, that you'll never be able to completely get rid of it and it'll be around to find it's way back into your brand new oil cooler eventually (or WAY sooner). Go with a BulletProof Diesel air-oil cooler and eliminate ever having to deal with a clogged oil cooler again.
Remember what I said about personal experience? Yeah, I replaced my OEM oil cooler with a new OEM oil cooler and it plugged up almost immediately, even after an agressive coolant system flush and 35 gallons of distlled water and running it a week on pure distilled water orior to starting the OEM replacement. That's right, a week later I had the top of the motor all apart again due to 234f around-town EOT on a brand new OEM oil cooler.
Installed the BPD kit this time and have yet to see over 205f EOT. Usually 190s.
And don't skimp on the oil filtration either - BPD offers two versions of their cooler(besides standard vs heavy duty). One retains the factory filtration system and the other uses a remote, spin on filter - GET THE REMOTE FILTER!!! Many high EOT probems have been linked to a faulty oil cooler bypass valve which is part of the oil cooler cover/filter housing base. It's a shotty, brass and rubber valve with a spring. It's probably about $6 in materials, but Ford doesn't sell it separate - you have to buy the whole oil cooler cover assembly at around $300!!! Not to mention the crappy plastic standpipe and plastic valves that tend to break and find their way into the oil system.
Besides head studs and a BPD egr cooler or EGR delete, I consider this BPD oil cooler a MUST DO when it comes time to replace the oem oil cooler.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #7  
Old 02-05-2014, 08:36 AM
information regurgitator
 

Join Date: Dec 2010
Location: Epping, NH
Posts: 5,941
Thanks: 20
Thanked 185 Times in 172 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodywerks0660 View Post
I replaced my OEM oil cooler with a new OEM oil cooler and it plugged up almost immediately, even after an agressive coolant system flush and 35 gallons of distlled water and running it a week on pure distilled water prior to starting the OEM replacement.
While I completely agree that the Bulletproof Diesel Oil Cooling System is the best replacement out there (and is what I have on my truck), the highlighted part of your post could be the reason why you suffered a clogged oil cooler so quickly after replacement.
Straight water (whether distilled or not) should NEVER be left in a cooling system for any extended period of time..ever.
The water will begin rusting the bare metal components exposed by the chemical flush in just a few minutes..never mind running it for days. You created all the material that clogged your second oil cooler quickly by leaving water in the cooling system that long.
This is why I say to flush using the chemicals, put in the new coolant (hopefully a CAT EC-1 rated ELC coolant) using concentrate (no premix), install your coolant filtration system, and drive the truck for a few weeks (with NEW coolant) to allow "the dust to settle." This way all the crap that could possibly clog your next oil cooler is either stuck in the oil cooler you are removing anyway or is caught by the coolant filter.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #8  
Old 02-05-2014, 08:46 AM
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 

Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 95
Thanks: 0
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
I agree about the distilled water mistake, but I was on a bit of a time crunch and also, didn't want to waste $80 worth of coolant, having to drain it prior to doing the cooler replacement. I could have(and did) recovered some of it, but what a pita. Bottom line, with the bullet proof oil cooler and an egr delete, the only thing my coolant had to do is cool my engine and I'll never have to worry about a clogged oil cooler(and the disastrous effects that could follow) again.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #9  
Old 02-05-2014, 12:08 PM
Powerstroke.org Rookie
 

Join Date: Jan 2014
Posts: 10
Thanks: 0
Thanked 0 Times in 0 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
While the bpd oil cooler sounds like a good idea, 2k is alot for an oil cooler setup. Ive also think the ipr setup looks like a good one even though that discussion seems to start fireworks.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
  #10  
Old 02-05-2014, 12:26 PM
Powerstroke.org Fanatic
 

Join Date: Feb 2014
Posts: 95
Thanks: 0
Thanked 9 Times in 8 Posts
Feedback Score: 0 reviews
Ipr retains the oem filtration. Reason enough for me to avoid it.
Reply With Quote Quick reply to this message
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

Quick Reply
Message:
Options

Register Now

In order to be able to post messages on the Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.
User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.
Password:
Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.
Email Address:

Log-in

Human Verification

In order to verify that you are a human and not a spam bot, please enter the answer into the following box below based on the instructions contained in the graphic.



Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On



All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:18 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Copyright ©2000 - 2014, Jelsoft Enterprises Ltd.
Search Engine Optimization by vBSEO 3.6.1
Garage Plus, Vendor Tools vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.

vB.Sponsors