ruptured oil cooler? plans on repair - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 17 Old 02-02-2014, 02:23 PM Thread Starter
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ruptured oil cooler? plans on repair

i have oil film in the degas bottle and looks like some coolant in the oil, so im guessing oil cooler has ruptured. As far as I can tell no head gasket leaks. I dont know the history of the truck, but can see it still has a factory egr cooler on it. i was thinking if im going to tear into it, ill just fix everything. Install egr delete, oil cooler, updated parts, and if no head studs, pull the heads and install UCF machine shop o-ring heads with studs. what do u guys think?

truck is a 2006 ford f250 xlt 4x4 auto 233k miles

Last edited by billybad05; 02-02-2014 at 07:34 PM.
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post #2 of 17 Old 02-03-2014, 10:54 AM Thread Starter
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Is a ruptured oil cooler the most likely cause of oil in coolant, coolant in oil?

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post #3 of 17 Old 02-03-2014, 11:05 AM
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If the oil cooler ruptures, you typically get oil in the coolant because the oil system runs at a higher pressure than the cooling system.


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post #4 of 17 Old 02-03-2014, 11:20 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by NYC F-350 View Post
If the oil cooler ruptures, you typically get oil in the coolant because the oil system runs at a higher pressure than the cooling system.
wouldnt you still get coolant in the oil since when the truck is shut off the oil pressure goes to zero, but the coolant is still under pressure?
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post #5 of 17 Old 02-04-2014, 06:39 AM
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Good catch. Yes, that is possible.


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post #6 of 17 Old 02-05-2014, 04:51 AM
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Second post here, I know, but DON'T WASTE YOUR TIME WITH THE OEM OIL COOLER! I speak from personal experience. And a simple google for search terms for "high eot after oil cooler" or similar will back up my personal experience.
Long story short, there is typically so much crud in the 6.0 coolant system due to poor manufacturing processes during block casting, the crap Ford gold coolant that ALL 6.0's had in them at some point(known for clogging up small passage ways) and due to the havok the EGR cooler can do to the coolant, especially if it is starved of coolant flow due to a clogged oil cooler and flash-boils the coolant, that you'll never be able to completely get rid of it and it'll be around to find it's way back into your brand new oil cooler eventually (or WAY sooner). Go with a BulletProof Diesel air-oil cooler and eliminate ever having to deal with a clogged oil cooler again.
Remember what I said about personal experience? Yeah, I replaced my OEM oil cooler with a new OEM oil cooler and it plugged up almost immediately, even after an agressive coolant system flush and 35 gallons of distlled water and running it a week on pure distilled water orior to starting the OEM replacement. That's right, a week later I had the top of the motor all apart again due to 234f around-town EOT on a brand new OEM oil cooler.
Installed the BPD kit this time and have yet to see over 205f EOT. Usually 190s.
And don't skimp on the oil filtration either - BPD offers two versions of their cooler(besides standard vs heavy duty). One retains the factory filtration system and the other uses a remote, spin on filter - GET THE REMOTE FILTER!!! Many high EOT probems have been linked to a faulty oil cooler bypass valve which is part of the oil cooler cover/filter housing base. It's a shotty, brass and rubber valve with a spring. It's probably about $6 in materials, but Ford doesn't sell it separate - you have to buy the whole oil cooler cover assembly at around $300!!! Not to mention the crappy plastic standpipe and plastic valves that tend to break and find their way into the oil system.
Besides head studs and a BPD egr cooler or EGR delete, I consider this BPD oil cooler a MUST DO when it comes time to replace the oem oil cooler.
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post #7 of 17 Old 02-05-2014, 08:36 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bodywerks0660 View Post
I replaced my OEM oil cooler with a new OEM oil cooler and it plugged up almost immediately, even after an agressive coolant system flush and 35 gallons of distlled water and running it a week on pure distilled water prior to starting the OEM replacement.
While I completely agree that the Bulletproof Diesel Oil Cooling System is the best replacement out there (and is what I have on my truck), the highlighted part of your post could be the reason why you suffered a clogged oil cooler so quickly after replacement.
Straight water (whether distilled or not) should NEVER be left in a cooling system for any extended period of time..ever.
The water will begin rusting the bare metal components exposed by the chemical flush in just a few minutes..never mind running it for days. You created all the material that clogged your second oil cooler quickly by leaving water in the cooling system that long.
This is why I say to flush using the chemicals, put in the new coolant (hopefully a CAT EC-1 rated ELC coolant) using concentrate (no premix), install your coolant filtration system, and drive the truck for a few weeks (with NEW coolant) to allow "the dust to settle." This way all the crap that could possibly clog your next oil cooler is either stuck in the oil cooler you are removing anyway or is caught by the coolant filter.


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post #8 of 17 Old 02-05-2014, 08:46 AM
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I agree about the distilled water mistake, but I was on a bit of a time crunch and also, didn't want to waste $80 worth of coolant, having to drain it prior to doing the cooler replacement. I could have(and did) recovered some of it, but what a pita. Bottom line, with the bullet proof oil cooler and an egr delete, the only thing my coolant had to do is cool my engine and I'll never have to worry about a clogged oil cooler(and the disastrous effects that could follow) again.
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post #9 of 17 Old 02-05-2014, 12:08 PM Thread Starter
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While the bpd oil cooler sounds like a good idea, 2k is alot for an oil cooler setup. Ive also think the ipr setup looks like a good one even though that discussion seems to start fireworks.
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post #10 of 17 Old 02-05-2014, 12:26 PM
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Ipr retains the oem filtration. Reason enough for me to avoid it.
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