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Old 01-24-2014, 04:19 AM Fanatic

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No Start No Buzz Test

2006 6.0

Truck has just died while driving down road. No lights or codes and power still to rest of truck. Turned it off and then it cranked right back up.

Last night my son had a no start. Hooked up AE. It was cold so it had almost 1500 cranking psi on HPOP. FICM read 47.8V steady before during and after cranking.

We did notice that there was no Key On buzz test. After trying to load it on the car hauler to bring it home and realized his new wheels and tires were too big to load it, he turned on the key and there was a buzz test. All AE numbers still looked same and he tried to crank it and it started right up.

Obviously we could have missed something, but last weekend we replaced some injectors, egr cooler, oil cooler and cleaned turbo. This was all done after the truck dying incidents. We inspected the wiring harnesses while we had it apart and did not find any problems with it.

What could cause this good ficm voltage but no buzz test/no start? PCM? Could the FICM be bad but still show good voltage?

Any help would be appreciated. Did a forum search but didn't find anything that helped out. Of course it always returns 700 posts and I can't read all of them.

Thanks in advance
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Old 01-24-2014, 07:45 AM
Huge Mythical Beast!!

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Check your plugs on FICM they might not be in all the way. Thats happened to me before. When you push up make sure you cant pull them back out. When you push them home be sure to wiggle side to side til you hear it click in. Good Luck

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Old 01-27-2014, 06:13 PM Fanatic

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i found the injector harness ground wire not connected, but I don't think that was the problem because the problems started before we did all the work to the engine.
The problem did seem to start after we replaced the ficm that was bad several weeks ago. That being said, I took some heater hose and placed under the plugs on the ficm to keep them pushed up into the ficm. All the plug locks are broken (to be expected on a truck that old and a 16 year old that pulled them off to change the ficm). So far after several days we have had no further problems. I will re-attack if we have any more problems.
All of this work has definitely made me want to recommend to anyone out there that they try to fix a lot of these problems themselves. It's not really hard, just time consuming. I can remove the turbo in about 20 minutes now. that leaves the HPOP accessible. I paid 2K a few years ago to have that replaced before I had any knowledgeof the engine and had no time to fix it. When I pulled it all apart this time, I have to say that I am suspicious that they did not replace the pump, but only replaced the IPR. The pump housing still had all the crud at the seam of the housing and the block that looked like it had never been opened up before.
Does anyone know if the HPOPs have a serial number on them that can be looked up to see if it's original? I'll give them the benefit of the doubt until I have to replace it again and then will look very closely at the pump.
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