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Old 09-29-2013, 11:27 AM
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Injectors?

Hello Folks, I'm new to the forum and to my F-350 Super Duty. I recently bought a big boat and needed something that would tow it safely. I was looking at F-250's but came across an 2005, F-350 6.0L, dually with 40,000 miles on the clock.

I'm new to Diesel engines, but noticed that in the mornings, when the vehicle is cool that it spits and sputters for a few minutes before it starts to run smoothly. Once warm, it seems fine, although I thought I might get a little more pulling power.

I went by the dealership, and the young guy said INJECTOR going bad as if it were a well known issue. I asked him if he was going to write down the symptoms and he said no need. "You need one more new injectors".

Then he proceeded to tell me that the warranty I bought from them was all but worthless. Injectors were not covered.

He said that for $179 that they would diagnose it for me....

Not getting into the Warranty here, but my question is.... Is there an economical and reliable way to verify that I have a bad injector, without giving the Smug Service man $179??

There must be a way to plug this baby in, and run some tests to see which injector(s) is the culprit. I feel that I should be able to replace it myself, if I know which one is in need. (I've re-geared a Jeep, replaced rear main engine seals, and modified a few gear boxes). So long as I can find clear instructions, I can surely follow them.

So, who can point me to a way to determine which injector or injectors have gone bad? I suspect that a code reader alone won't do the job. I read somewhere that you can buy an interface for a reasonable price to plug in a laptop and determine which injector is bad.

I'm planning to speak to the sales manager this week about upgrading that warranty I bought. Even if it costs a grand more, it might be worth it since injectors are ridiculously expensive.

John
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Old 09-29-2013, 11:51 AM
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You don't have a bad injector. Your FICM is taking a crap and that's why you're getting the "chugging" when cold. You'll either need to have your FICM repaired or replace it. If you plan on keeping and using the truck then go with a Bullet Proof Diesel FICM and never worry about it again. Also need to load test both batteries and make sure the alternator is good. Bad batteries will kill an FICM. Another good thing to do would be to switch to a 5w40 synthetic oil. That helps with cold starts and injector life.
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Old 09-29-2013, 11:55 AM
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The FICM should be 46-48 volts. If you test it when it's cold, I'd bet money it's dropping into the low 40's or high 30's
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Old 09-29-2013, 01:55 PM
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Thanks for the feedback. I'll swing by Batteries plus and see if they can test my batter and alternator.

Is there a write up or simple way to test the voltage in the FICM. I own a multi-meter if that will help?
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Old 09-29-2013, 02:15 PM
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The first post tells how to check it.
http://www.*************.com/ford-po...procedure.html
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Old 09-29-2013, 05:08 PM
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2 bad injectors will create a chug as well. Get a monitor for your truck (DashBoss if you have an Iphone or others like ScanGauge ll). That will help rule out the FICM voltage (most of the time). Once that is mostly ruled out, you probably need a buzz test and a contribution/power balance check to find the low cylinder(s). This usually means finding which injectors are bad. You can perhaps find the weak injector by unclipping the harness to the injectors, one at a time, but not always. If you can't find them, Ford IDS to pinpoint the problem.

You have some reading to do. If you are mechanically inclined, the fix for injectors is in my signature if it is stiction related (which it possibly is).
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Old 09-29-2013, 05:28 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by twoicebergs View Post
2 bad injectors will create a chug as well. Get a monitor for your truck (DashBoss if you have an Iphone or others like ScanGauge ll). That will help rule out the FICM voltage (most of the time). Once that is mostly ruled out, you probably need a buzz test and a contribution/power balance check to find the low cylinder(s). This usually means finding which injectors are bad. You can perhaps find the weak injector by unclipping the harness to the injectors, one at a time, but not always. If you can't find them, Ford IDS to pinpoint the problem.

You have some reading to do. If you are mechanically inclined, the fix for injectors is in my signature if it is stiction related (which it possibly is).
Not gonna say it can't be an injector(s), but highly unlikely considering the symptoms and mileage. Just my opinion.
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:01 AM
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UPDATE: I put a battery tester on the batteries individually after I disconnected them from the truck. Both Test in the Green.

I noticed that there are 2 different brand batteries in it. Neither is a factory model. One is 850CCA, the other is 675CCA. Is that is a problem? Should the batteries be the same brand and same Amp ratings? I'm guessing that it's not an issue, but thought I'd ask the experts here.

So, I'm thinking that I can rule out the batteries as being the problem. Tomorrow I'll voltage test the FICM with a multi-meter when the engine is cold. I'll update results here.
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Old 09-30-2013, 07:06 AM
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u may also just have some stiction in an injector.. usually running 2 bottles of RevX will clear it up (there are several threads on stiction and Rev-X on this forum as well) if it runs kinda 'lopey' when cold then cleans up when warm it is probably stiction, or possibly a bad injector or FICM as said before
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Old 09-30-2013, 10:28 AM
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Just ordered 2 bottles of RevX. Figured it wouldn't hurt to try it out. Should I wait until I change my oil to try it, or dump it in as soon as it arrives? I don't plan to change oil for a month or so.
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