Hard start then white smoke(ficm or starvation/or both?) - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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  #1  
Old 09-24-2013, 02:28 PM
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Hard start then white smoke(ficm or starvation/or both?)

2003 F350
224k
Had it for a month.
Stock studs
Possible egr delete throws insufficient flow code

Loud fuel pump or possibly the ficm buzzing while key is on and allowing glowplugs to cycle. It seems to come from under the hood which would make it the ficm correct? Either way it made an unusual noise and then stopped, truck started and several minutes later as I was accelerating to 55 i noticed the white smoke possibly very light blueish tint, it was rainy and hard to tell. Only smokes while under load.

When I bought it I had powerstroke magic in houston do a quick initial inspection on it. Tech read low ficm voltage, loud fuel pump, and last but not least EOT-225 ECT-190.

I was planning to flush and possibly replace oil cooler and then this happened. So I parked it and haven't had a chance to dig in. Any possibility it could be just a clogged fuel filter causing starvation and white smoke? I'm planning on replacing the fuel filters, pulling and sending the ficm off to be repaired, and if that doesn't work then check out the fuel pump.

Just called a guy here in town who repairs ficm's and he said that if it's putting out low voltage that would cause the injectors to not atomize the fuel as well as it would at 48v, creating an incomplete burn in the piston and causing white smoke. (forgot to ask him if the truck still started with the less than good ficm, could the ficm still be enough of a problem as to cause the injectors to not atomize properly, any help would be much appreciated!)

I've read multiple threads on this issue so far and none have sounded exactly as this so here it is. I know its long, appreciate any feedback though.
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  #2  
Old 09-25-2013, 12:36 AM
RollinEarly05...now


 

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Lots of things I see wrong here...

First: its stock head bolts (not studs, there is a difference ).

Second: you need a monitor and if you were told the oil cooler was plugged (ECT 190 EOT 225 which is several plugged) why did you choose to drive the vehicle anyway? The many reason a egr cooler goes out is because of the oil cooler being plugged... Guess what comes next, head gaskets. (Probably not your issue though).

Third: just flushing will only plug the oil cooler more, especially if you use chemicals like restore, restore plus, vc-9... So you HAVE to replace the oil cooler, I'd do it immediately. A month ago your deltas where 35* and without a monitor there is a chance they are getting worse.

Fourth: the buzzing noise you hear when you first turn the key on is normal. It's the spool valves inside the injectors helping with cold starts (stretching their legs, warming up). Haven't heard a louder than normal fuel pump... So not sure there.

Fifth: get he FICM fixed and then see how the truck is acting and if it's still smoking... Hard to diagnose something truly without fixing all known problems first!

Sixth: the egr code is probably the egr valve gummed up and stuck in place not allowing it to open and close properly. Most times it can be pulled out and just cleaned... Don't forget new o-rings

Seventh: have your fuel pressure checked. It could just need a new spring which most guys get the updated blue spring. Fuel pressure should be at least 50-65 psi.


Eighth, last but not least the biggest issue you have!: since you don't monitor or fix known problems as soon as they are brought to your attention (could be lack of money ) a 6.0 powerstroke is not for you. Unless you like fixing problems that could have been avoided in the first place. Not trying to be a jerk... 6.0's are picky and require regular maintainence and monitoring of engine vitals regularly as well. Good luck with the truck.
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Old 09-25-2013, 03:07 AM
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My current driving habits are only 30 miles a day..for now. So buying a new to me truck with " no known issues " from the dealer and then dumping several thousand into it right off the bat wasn't a possibility. No money! I do know driving it period is a risk but it had to be done. And honestly I'm still looking into any legal action I can take with the dealership. Doubtful at best.

I've read of many guys flushing and lowering their # into the teens, it would lengthen the time I have to not throw down 1500$ parts and labor on an oil cooler swap.

The tech was under the impression the egr had been blocked. But won't know until were in there.

Stock head bolts

So do you agree under a 48v producing ficm the truck would burn white smoke from improperly burned fuel?

Last question I have is how would this truck last 225,000 miles non bullet proofed and then suddenly need it. Seems if the oil cooler was in fact going to get plugged, it would have done it by now.
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:24 AM
RollinEarly05...now


 

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Oil coolers usually need changed several times thought the motors life. FICM could make white smoke, but volts would have to be extremely low... In the 20's, which would barely run. 7.3 powerstroke run forever with little to no maintanence
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Old 09-25-2013, 06:42 AM
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When I drove 3 hours to buy this truck I was told it was a 7.3, that's what I wanted. Opened the hood and its a 6.0, only bought it cause at the time it drove great and is spotless inside and out. Trust me I've been kicking myself in the *** ever since I made that decision. And yeah I was also under the impression if the ficm was down so low to severely disrupt the injectors it wouldn't start or run.
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Old 09-25-2013, 07:24 AM
RollinEarly05...now


 

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Don't get me wrong, I love my 6.0! But she can be picky and needs some special attention. If you can solder you can fix the FICM yourself.... Lots of threads on it. You need to get a monitor to watch temps. Only time you can flush and get the oil cooler working better is to back flush (actually flush CLEAN fluid back thru the oil cooler only). Gets coolant filter also, they are cheap and work great for the long run.
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Old 09-25-2013, 09:12 AM
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Appreciate all the help.

I've been planning to sell it for a 7.3, this is a long bed truck and I won't be needing one. So up until now it has been to go about the most cost effective route of making the truck dependable. I'm not willing to repeat the same lie that I fell for. I'm sure I will end up losing my ***, but it is what it is.

Going to test the ficm when I get off of work as well as replace the fuel filters since I don't know when they were replaced last. I'll have a look at everything else when I get time. Being a family man doesn't give a guy much time left over for a truck.
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Old 09-25-2013, 05:50 PM
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Holy low ficm voltage! 13v-on. 18v-cranking. Will keep updating as I keep fixing.
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Old 09-26-2013, 04:41 PM
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Sending ficm to usaficm.com for repair tomorrow. $125 post office money order special that's going on, includes lifetime warranty.
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  #10  
Old 09-26-2013, 04:47 PM
RollinEarly05...now


 

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13v I've never heard of them that low... Are you sure you were testing in the right location?
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