06 xlt ford f250 4x4 6.0 hard start after setting - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 09-06-2013, 06:53 PM
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06 xlt ford f250 4x4 6.0 hard start after setting

I been having a problem with my 06 ford f250 xlt 4x4 when the truck sets for all night or longer it takes it for ever to start but once it starts it fine run great. The only thing that has been done to this truck is egr delet and oil cool replacement, even before I did the egr delet and oil cooler replacement it took forever to start.
I looked at my icp calculated pressure when it was off it was showing about 121 psi and the icp volts was reading like 1. Something. While cranking it climb to 750 to 800 psi and fires up. Could my icp be going bad is the reason why it is doing what it is doing what do you guys think
Thanks for any help

Last edited by tigger19; 09-06-2013 at 08:05 PM.
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Old 09-07-2013, 09:02 PM
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Could be a bad icp sensor if youve got 120 psi sitting. Next cold start try unplugging the connector to your icp sensor before you try starting it. If it starts fine unplugged then its the sensor. Could be a variety of things. Your ficm volts could be low too. Whats ambient temps on your first start up?
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Old 09-08-2013, 05:44 AM
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Most likely a high pressure oil leak. The sensor is reading and all is good after initial start. What happens is the oil rail gets air bound. After cranking and it fires the air is out of the system. The oil is thick enough it takes a while to leak down. This is why its only after sitting a good amount of time before you have issues
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Old 09-08-2013, 07:07 PM
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Yea everything is good after the first start up. So maybe dummy plugs stand pipes.

Last edited by tigger19; 09-08-2013 at 07:21 PM.
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:26 PM
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High pressure oil leaks such as stand pipes, dummy plugs, or stc fitting will cause a hard no start when hot. Cold start issues are usually injector stiction, battery power, ficm power, or glow plug issues. It could also be a ficm sync issue with cam and crank sensors, but not likely since its only cold.

Like I said. 120 psi doesnt sound right. You should see it fire up by 600, keep going up till it hits 800 then drop to about 585 psi. Disconnect your batteries and have them load tested individually. Youtube search the video for ficm testing and see what your ficm is reading.
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Old 09-08-2013, 08:35 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ajfrac View Post
High pressure oil leaks such as stand pipes, dummy plugs, or stc fitting will cause a hard no start when hot. Cold start issues are usually injector stiction, battery power, ficm power, or glow plug issues. It could also be a ficm sync issue with cam and crank sensors, but not likely since its only cold.

Like I said. 120 psi doesnt sound right. You should see it fire up by 600, keep going up till it hits 800 then drop to about 585 psi. Disconnect your batteries and have them load tested individually. Youtube search the video for ficm testing and see what your ficm is reading.
ajfrac is right here,
You would start good when cold and have issues once its up to temp.

Start by unplugging the icp and see how it behaves. Also look for oil coming out of it or grease and dirt piled up on the plug causing resistance.
icp should be at 0 when engine is off Period!
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Old 09-17-2013, 04:02 PM
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I check out the icp it is fine. Unplugged plugged in it still the same. I took it to ford and they are saying dummy plugs and stand pipes. The stc fitting has been replaced about 6 months back. So I bought the dummy plugs and stand pipes today going to change them when I can. Ficm is at 48.50 while cranking doesn't go blew 48.00 while cranking. We will see what this does.
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Old 09-17-2013, 07:13 PM
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If your passenger side standpipe doesnt slpit in 2 you have to loosen the motor mounts and lift that side of the motor or try to separate them (couldnt get mine apart). If either splits you need to pull the oil rail off. Be prepared. Dummy plugs can be done with oil rail in place.
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Old 09-17-2013, 09:04 PM
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The guy at bullet proof deaisel said I shouldn't have a problem with the stand pipe splitting because the threads are at top and not at the bottom of the stand pipe like the older modle 6.0. He said that I will have to losen the passages side oil rail to get the stand pipe out because of the air box. It doesn't look to be that hard of a job just going to take my time and go with the flow like I did when I did my egr delet and oil cooler swap. Thanks for the help and the advice I will need every hit and advice there is thank u all
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