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Old 08-20-2013, 08:24 AM
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Limp home light

'05 F50 DRW King Ranch 6.0 powerstroke. Dual 4" turbo back exhaust. Bought used. 69,000 miles then and 75,500 now.

Recently went on trip pulling my 32' fifth wheel camper from Virginia to Key Largo, Florida. this is the first time I have pulled anything with the truck. I have never had any issues with the truck.

About 30 miles into the trip on the interstate the "limp home" warning light came on. Pulled over and checked all belts and checked for leaks etc... . Nothing found. We continued with our trip and about every time we would go around that 25-30 mile range the light would come on. The truck acts as though nothing is wrong. Still has full power and runs normal. This has never happened when not pulling the trailer. The light will go off when I turn the truck off and stay off until that 25-30 mile range.

Another thing that happened was that every now and then only while pulling the trailer I will get a little anti freeze leak smell that comes through the air vents. Checked the level the entire trip. Marked it on the overflow reservoir and it never moved.

Any advice would really be appreciated. Still learning the truck and diesel motors, so need so I need all the help I can get.

Thanks everyone.

Chuck Kenny
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Old 08-20-2013, 12:49 PM
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Replace your degas bottle cap for starters. It is cheap and easy. It may not be holding to, IIRC, 16 PSIG. Do you have any monitoring device on the truck? If so you will be getting codes pertaining to why the LIMP LIGHT is coming on. Without a monitor it is hard to stear you in the right direction for sure. Also check out this link.

Troubleshooting coolant loss (white residue around cooling system components(degas))
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Old 08-20-2013, 04:40 PM
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Exactly. With out a monitor its tough to say. My guess is your ECT/EOT Delta is hitting 25* it sets a check engine light but I'm not sure if it throws it into limp mode. The engine will defuel if the EOT hits 250* Most likely your oil cooler is clogged and if you're getting coolant blow off its either ruptured EGR cooler or blown HG's
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Old 08-22-2013, 02:17 PM
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Thanks for the responses. I checked the cap on the degas bottle and there was no apparent leak around it. No white discoloration or running streaking lines from a leak. Changed the cap though since it was cheap to replace.

I do not have any monitoring device. Can you guys recommend one? if it was a head gasket wouldn't I have some fluid loss and or cloudy engine oil? neither of those are present. Also temp always remains right in the center of the temp. gauge.

Thanks again for the help.

Chuck
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Old 08-22-2013, 04:08 PM
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They dont call em dummy gauges for nothin. The dash is pretty much useless except for for speed and fuel. I use Edge insight CS. I feel its got good bang for your buck. If you've got a little more cash you can upgrade to the Edge insight CTS. There are other good ones out there but I can't attest for them. If you dont have a lot of cash, then the best bang for your buck would be the ScanGauge II. Good luck picking one
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Old 08-27-2013, 11:41 AM
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Ordered the Edge Insight CTS today. Will be here early next week. Also ordered the EGT cable. Is setting up the monitor pretty steaight forward? Anything special I need to do? Is the EGT cable hard to install? Hopefully once it gets here I can get it installed pretty quickly and start getting some information that ee can use to diagnois the issue.

Thanks for the help do far and in the future. I am trying to learn as quickly as possible.

Chuck Kenny
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Old 08-27-2013, 03:46 PM
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The unit is pretty much a plug and play. The only problem you may have when you get it hooked up is, it may not read all the PID's that are available through the PCM. Easy fix though... You just have to download the Fusion software (which you should have have anyway as they are always updating firmware) contact Edge over the phone and they'll update the unit for you. The EGT probe is easy if you know how to drill and tap. I put mine on the underside, towards the rear, of the drivers side exhaust manifold. I believe that's where they recommend installation also (for pre-turbo installs). first thing you're looking to monitor is your EOT/ECT delta and look for any DTC's that may indicate your CEL
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Old 08-29-2013, 05:19 PM
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Okay got the Edge CTS today. Did a real quick install and had 2 trouble codes. P0404 and P012f. Plan on pulling EGR vavle and checking it. I believe the other is EOT. Correct? If so is it best to just replace Engine oil cooler?

Thanks again for the help. Like I said before learning on the fly here.

Chuck Kenny
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Old 08-30-2013, 07:05 AM
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Yes the P0404 is an EGR code and you are headed in the right direction by goin right to the valve for inspection. This code is cause by a faulty EGR sensor, the valve itself, or a fault in PCM. Most likely there is a problem with the valve. When you remove it, take a good look in the intake, and on the valve itself, and make sure it's just sooty looking. If you see a gooey mess, then you've got an EGR cooler rupture.

The P012F code is an oil cooler efficiency code. Most likely the oil cooler is clogged and in need of replacement. If it's clogged, You have two options... 1)Flush the system, and replace the oil cooler, and hope it doesnt happen again. (It will most likely occur again)
2)Flush the system, and install a BPD oil cooler, and kiss your oil cooler worries goodbye.
Either way, with either route, there are several other things that are highly recommended with the whole procedure
1)delete the EGR cooler. (The failed oil cooler most likely caused the egr cooler to rupture and if not, weakened it substantially and it will fail soon anyway)
2)perform a total cooling system flush, and switch to a Diesel rated ELC (i personally run Zerex HD, but there are many to pick from)
3)Install a coolant filter. (All diesels should have em, and it helps the efficiency and longevity of all the system components)

I am not a salesman for BPD by any means, but I will tell you it is the better route to go. I know its pricy (I heard a lot about it from my old lady) but in the long run it pays for itself. There are lots of members on here the will attest to this, as they had replaced the OEM cooler time and time again in rather short intervals, just to keep having them clog up again. So, at $400-$500 a shot plus labor, you make the call. Good luck.
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Old 08-30-2013, 02:24 PM
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Just riding around town today and was paying attention to temps. EOT high mark was 204 and ECT was 191 at the same time. It was approx. 85* at that time. Still waiting for the EGT cable to come in and then to get it installed.

Chuck Kenny
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