So I did the head gaskets on my truck and I thought did everything just how it was suppose to be done. Start the truck no leaks but it is making this horrible pop sound. Like a vavle is stuck open. Any ideas what I did wrong??
I don't even know. The only thing I can think off is a lifter is sticking but I had the heads fully rebuilt.
I know I tourqed the bolts holding down the rocker guides to 30ftlbs. Maybe that is too tight? I didn't see how you could adjust thm like on a normal gas engine so I figured that would be fine. No matter what it is I'm going to have to tear all that **** apart again
So based on that I had to look up how to do that to begin with. The more I think about I truly do not remember torquing the glow pugs down. Couldn't that cause the same sound? My theory is like when you take out a spark plug on a gas engine it makes about the same sound. Plus I would think that would also make it harder to strart as well because the compression can't build up like it is suppose too.
Exactly, thats why i was saying about a compression test. Check the glow plugs, take off the valve cover and the HPO rail above the injectors
Also you can have a loose rocker arm, most of the times that i do a head gasket, a tocker brnds or breaks, leaving the valve closed or open. Also the little plastic things that make sure the arma stay in their place tend to break, they are made from plastic and hot oil its not their best friend
I hope I didn't bend a push rod. Whatever I did I am going to have to wait until tomorrow to look at it. We just closed on our house yesterday and I gotta keep mama happy before I work on my truck again.
Is the noise your hearing coming from the air filter? If so you have exhaust valves not opening. I had a new tech at my shop not get a couple push rods seated properly in the lifter and it bent two exhaust push rods on one engine. Made a horrible popping in the intake because of the cylinder pressure escaping into the intake when the intake valves open.
ill admit i did the exact same thing after my head stud install. One of my push tubes wasn't seated all they way in the lifter. I ended up bending a push tube and breaking the rocker arm. I had to unbolt the stud to get the new rocker arm in. Not a big deal, as long as you do it quick. Take off both valve covers and have some one start it, look for the rocker thats not moving and start from there.
You need to check the codes and see which cylinder it is but it definitely sounds like a bent push rod and maybe a broke rocker arm as well. I did the same thing, it sucks but that is what it is. You need to manually roll the crank shaft to make sure the pushrods move with the cam. Good luck
Did you rotate the crank to the 6 o'clock position before putting the heads back on? If you didn't the lifters probably pumped themselves up and you bent a push rod on cylinder #5. Hopefully it's just a push rod and not a valve.
Well that sucks. I thought I read enough details before I did this. I will be tearing it back apart tomorrow. Thanks a lot guys I will let you know what I find.
Okay so now that I know about the whole 6'oclock thing. Do I need to tear everything down and and check all this? Or can I be lazy and just replace the one that's bad?
I mean I would have too wouldn't I? Because I rotate it to the position that would affect all the rest right?
Ok just so I'm clear once I get access to push rod. I get it out and before I torque anything I make sure the alignment pin in the dampner is at the 6'oclock position. Righting everything back down and I should be good now
i just pulled the bent one and turned it over by hand, but since i tore it back down for that i went ahead and pulled my injectors and sent them to warren, so was easy to turn over by hand.
No but I found what the problem was. I'm on my phone right now and I don't know how to post a picture from phone. But what happened is the bridge on the top of the valves for the exhaust came off and the rocker broke. Well the plastic in the center.
So now I have to order that part. My next question's are can I take off that one head bolt #7 on drivers side, and do I have to go back through the torque sequence.
I thought the sequence was to clamp it down evenly, but it should be already so in theory I shouldn't have to do that.......right???
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Related Threads
?
?
?
?
?
Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
5.4M posts
265.8K members
Since 2005
A forum community dedicated to Ford F-series owners and enthusiasts with a Power Stroke diesel engine. Come join the discussion about performance, bulletproofing, modifications, classifieds, troubleshooting, maintenance, and more!