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Bad HG? heres my coolant psi test

4K views 25 replies 9 participants last post by  ajfrac 
#1 ·
OK, I have a 2005 with egr cooler delete and some other stuff that isn't really relevant. I'm currently running the SCT Canned tune Performance and boost hits 22.5 at WOT, although I saw 24psi once.

So I made my backalley coolant psi gauge today after oil and fuel filter change. It was hot already and all pressure was released. I started it up to idle for a while. after 10 minutes of idle, the ect was 180 and I had about 4 psi.

Started driving and did some medium to heavy 0-60's, it took about 4 miles to get to 200 degrees and it went to about 8-10psi in the coolant. then I did two 1/4 mile runs with the gps based drag app. After I did both it was at 14.5psi and 216 degrees ECT. I pulled over and released the pressure out of the cap and turned the engine off for about 2 min.

So started it up, psi back at 0 and ECT to 198 degrees. did another 1/4 mile drag and then drove about 6-8 miles cruising at 65mph now ive got 4psi and temps are right at 200 degrees.

then I do several 0-60s. The PSI gauge goes up about 1.5psi when I stomp it and drops(quicker than going up) 1.5psi as trans shifts up gauge goes up 1.5psi, trans shifts, then psi goes back down. at the end of it its at 8psi.

go for another series of runs and the coolant pressure only when at WOT, or up a little at 50% throttle. It hits 12.5 psi and doesn't go up any higher. I did a few more 0-60's and it might have gone up to 13-13.5psi.

All in all I drove about 40-45 miles for this whole test start to finish.
I have EGR cooler delete so that's not an issue, but my EOT and ECT deltas are hitting 26 degrees cruising at 65mph flat ground.

Im thinking either HGs are bad, or the tune is just so hot its flashboiling coolant in some hot spots. the coolant is Fleetguard ES Compleat OAT its not 50/50, its only about 40/60 or 45/55 because they only sold pre mixed and there was water in the block from flushing.

any insight on whats going on? Thanks



on a bright note, the app says I did a 1/4 mile in 15.33 which I was impressed to see.
 
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#3 ·
Perhaps I am missing something, but those pressures dont seem too bad to me. I recently posted about my coolant pressures (observed yesterday), and I saw pressures as high as 22PSI, and saw some correlation in boost and coolant pressure above a boost of 18PSI. I also have puking as the degas bottle cap is venting around 18 PSI coolant presure.

Are you puking coolant?
 
#4 ·
no, not puking coolant.
I thought I was losing some because it seems to be going down, but if I release the pressure at full temp its right where it was a month ago. a month ago I had to add a quart, I figured it was because it was right after a flush so I assumed it was just air pockets.
if its puking its almost certainly a HG and or EGR cooler that's blown. you should remove egr valve and see if theres moisture in your intake manifold to determine if its egr cooler.
 
#5 ·
Yeah those numbered dont seem bad to me at all
 
#6 ·
Im hoping theyre good. My plan is to do studs "one at a time" if theyre good. It would be such a hassle to take the heads off and id like to avoid that. Anyone else have knowledge on the numbers im seeing? I want to be for sure theyre ok. Thanks to those that already chimed in.
 
#7 ·
#8 ·
You do not have a bad head gasket leak if it was you would get pressure and temp increases within seconds and will rise and fall with throttle application.

Remember you are dealing with hot combustion gases of around 600 psi @ 900 degreesF

Since you are running a performance tune even when towing eventually you will lift the heads enough to develope gasket problems.
 
#9 ·
Well my .02 cents is that the system is getting definately getting pressurized, and since you've got an EGR delete, the pressure must be coming from the head area. It's just not too bad yet. Thing is, it's not going to fix itself, it will only get worse right? So You can probably get by for now, but if I were you I'd start saving my $. Don't assume that your heads are re-usable either. They could be cracked. Plan for the worse, hope for the best, right?
 
#10 ·
Would there be a definitive test for a small HG leak? Compression test maybe?
 
#11 ·
Your coolant shouldn't fluctuate that much. Mine held at 4-5lbs around town but hard 0-60 runs would build 2-3psi on the looney tune. It wasn't bad enough to get the "whistle" or puke... but I decided to tear into it anyway. Got the engine out and disassembled last friday to find the gasket was compromised on cylinder #2 to the triangular coolant passage. This was with OEM head gaskets and studs. Previous HG job was just a parts swap. This time everybody gets machined and blueprinted!

I would not do the hillbilly 1 out-1in stud job. You really should pull the heads and have a quality machine shop service them. For the amount of F-in around you do trying to do the studs in the truck, another 90 minutes of labor and the engine can be sitting on the stand (or even a wood cradle).
 
#13 ·
OK, so I guess I will likely be doing this soon then, I intend to do it cab on. On the SR Master Tech video he has a plate to bolt on to the head to lift it out. Anyone know where I can get one of these or blueprints to have one built, or another way to lift the heads out without damage? I do have a crane to lift with.

4 other things.

First, what do you guys think of this? I get a free repaint and glass replace from insurance, complete with rental car. I was planning on doing the repaint after I move, I could take the motor out, tow it to body shop, and do all the work out of truck with no time constraint. (although this sounds scary a bit, just an option)
Powerstroke Engine Lifting Plate 6 0 | eBay

Second, besides a socket set, torque wrench, studs and OEM head Gaskets do I need for this? i.e. special tools, intake gaskets, turbo o ring kit, etc?

Third, how much should I pay a machine shop to machine the heads, how long is the process from drop off to pick up usually, and whats the tolerances and max amount that can be milled etc? I may

Fourth, any known good deals on Studs and/or OEM Gaskets? Im assuming these off brand studs aren't as good as ARP brand.

Thanks
 
#14 ·
Well there's only two brands that I know of. ARP and A1 technologies. I would do all the updates if it hasn't been done (stand pipes, plugs, STC fitting, blah blah). Figure 2-400 bucks if the head just needs to be milled to clean up the gasket etch... if you have cracks around the valve seat, worn guides, poor valve seal, or any other head issue it will cost more. The worst head I seen needed 0.015" which required the machine shop to recess all of the valves 0.010" (and nip the valve stem to maintain original geometry) to keep piston-to-valve clearance.... I wanna say it was $1100. It really wasn't bad pulling the motor. It took me and a buddy two evenings after work to have it out.
 
#15 ·
Check out the stickies for head jobs, they are loaded with all kinds of tips to do the job. I didn't use any special tools to do mine. As far as the heads, I had a friend of mine help with those. We lifted them in and out by hand very carefully. Check ebay for your studs, I think the cheapest I found were $340 and check out Tousley or Sunrise Ford for your gaskets. Like gofast said also, might as well do it all while you're in there. If I had the resources to do it with the engine out, I would have. Good luck with your build!
 
#16 ·
If you've got a buddy, or you're super careful, you don't need the lifting plate. You need a torque wrench that can go up to 210 lbs. ft.. The only really special tool you need is this torque adapter. You can make one yourself like I did, or purchase one:
9258 High Quality Head Bolt Remover

I have read on this forum that you can also unbolt the drive shafts and transmission somehow and rotate the engine if you don't want to buy this tool. You'd have to search for that. To me, making the tool was MUCH easier.

Oh, and take the evap housing out. You'll have to discharge the AC, but it gets you a TON of room on the passenger side.
 
#17 ·
Ok, machine shop says they vaccum test them. They will do that and mill the heads for $150 for the pair, but if the valves need shaving or valve seats are cracked they said im looking at $750-1200. Is vaccum testing enough? They said they cant magnaflux being aluminum but sonaflux is apparently expensive. Anyone know whot my odds are that they wont have cracked valve seats or cracks period? Or the odds that they wont need to have the valves shaved? This seems to be the best shop in town.
 
#19 ·
Hmm, ok, would the vaccum test be adequate though?
 
#21 ·
Ok, its a family owned shop and I guess the younger brother or something answered the phone, but they do magnaflux them. The normal guy knew they were iron. He said its very common to have a crack in the valve guides, hoping theres no cracks.
 
#23 ·
Its a family shop, I guess the cousin answered the phone or something, but they do magna flux it. He said cracks in the valve seats are very common. Hopefully its ok, thats going to get expensive.
 
#25 ·
When I dropped my heads off at Pakes, Bob said the likelyhood of valve seat cracks is about 4 out of 5 heads. Some only get 2 or 3 seats replaced and others only leave 2 or 3 seats alone lol. I asked him to get back to me with me once my heads were mag'd. I budgeted for worst case scenario so if I have some cracks I might just have him cut them all out and replace with steel seats since the tooling will be set up already.
 
#26 ·
Ok, getting ready to buy everything, but anybody know where I might get a good priced thread chaser for threads in the block? Also what size 12pt socket do I need for the arp nuts?

Thanks
 
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