Getting a little warm, fan staying on - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 07-14-2013, 09:23 PM
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Getting a little warm, fan staying on

2003 6.0 F-350.
New oil cooler, coolant filter, EGR delete, thermostat.

Idling is fine, around town fan comes on ever-so-slightly (can barely hear it), on Interstate/hiway 65-70 cruising, fan comes on and stays on full bore, temp gauge stays put but sometimes needle moves a hair to the warm side but goes back down if I back off the throttle.
I know that the gauges aren't to be relied upon but it is all I have now. Should I flush the cooling system? I did drain some out, got it in a cup and it looked dirty...wood this do it? Is it a bad water pump maybe? There are no leaks anywhere and the coolant level stays the same.

Thank you very much!!!!!!!
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Old 07-16-2013, 04:34 PM
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Sounds like the water pump is bad
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:30 PM
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I think the water pump is worth checking out too. I recently had a temp issue as well and it turned out to be my fan clutch but yours sounds OK. If it's running all the time then I'm guessing the extra airflow it's generating isn't helping to cool things down. It's a pretty quick job to pull the water pump and you can see if the impeller is damaged or if it's spinning on the shaft.

If you didn't flush the cooling system before putting in the new oil cooler I wouldn't flush it now. If it loosens up any crud it could clog your shiny new cooler and you'd be back at square one. Unfortunately I speak from experience on this one. How many miles are on the coolant? If it looks dirty it probably wouldn't hurt to change it but I'd steer clear of a chemical flush.
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Old 07-16-2013, 05:42 PM
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If it were me i would do a flush and run it with regular tap water and see if the temps are good. It could be to much coolant and not enough destilled water that would cause your temp to go up but if you flush and temps get to high then it is probably the water pump. Either way you have to flush the system. You really need a monitor to get your actual temp, depending on how hot it is outside you could see well over 200* they are $150 all day for a scan gauge 2 on ebay, just a suggestion.


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Old 07-18-2013, 03:00 PM
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Yeah I did a flush after the oil cooler was installed but I actually started it by just opening drain on radiator and running the garden hose in the degas bottle for about 45 minutes just to get any loose particles out of radiator. Then I added the coolant and distilled water. However, I did notice only about a gallon of distilled water would go after all three jugs of coolant. Does this mean an air pocket somewhere? I am getting no heat from my heater too.
I have everything taken apart. just have to remove serpentine belt and remove water pump but I ordered a billet machined aluminum one from BPD because I HATE the thought of plastic impeller blades....how stupid is that?!!! Engineers amaze me sometimes.
I wanted to back flush to heater core also just don't know how to go about that.
I do want to get a scan guage that is on the list of soon to get things as I know it is very important with these engines to monitor EOT and ECT

Thank you guys very much for the responses. I will report back when I get water pump off later tonight after work
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Old 07-18-2013, 08:30 PM
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Ok, so I finally got the water pump removed and was able to take a couple pictures of it.

There is a crack through one half of the impeller plate and I found that if I held where the pulley bolts too, the impeller would freely turn.

Either way, pump is out, new BPD aluminum billet pump is on the way and I cannot wait to put it on.

I was pretty excited when I saw that crack because I am thinking that is my problem. Getting hot when the RPM's increase? Cools off when you are idling, even sitting in heavy traffic stop and go? That is polar opposite of what it normally is right? So, extra coolant is need at high RPM, high load situations? If PLASTIC water pump is cracked or will not spin it cannot supply that right?

Any other thoughts?
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Old 07-18-2013, 09:00 PM
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Sorry for the poor quality pictures. If you look you can see the crack around the center where it sits around the shaft. Then across the cross section then through the entire thickness. And as I said previously the impeller spins with little force without pulley spinning and vice-versa. I would say this water pump is toast






Last edited by sixoh; 07-18-2013 at 09:05 PM.
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Old 07-19-2013, 05:19 AM
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Looks like you found your problem. When you do your flush, after the water hose you need to flush with destilled water i mean like 10 gallons. Then flush with destilled water and just add 3 gallons of non mixed cat elc then top off with mixed elc. Keep us posted.


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Old 07-21-2013, 09:22 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bluedemon6.0 View Post
Looks like you found your problem. When you do your flush, after the water hose you need to flush with destilled water i mean like 10 gallons. Then flush with destilled water and just add 3 gallons of non mixed cat elc then top off with mixed elc. Keep us posted.


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Ok copy that. I've got 10 gallons on standby. What did you mean 3 gallons of cat elc? I am going to take my time flushing this system. Don't want to have to mess with it again until next year!
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Old 07-21-2013, 09:34 PM
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you are going to need more than 10 gallons of distilled water. To flush drain the coolant by removing the lower radiator hose from the radiator, and removing the drain plug from the driver side of the block. There is a drain plug on the passenger side also but you have to remove the starter to get to it. I don't bother with that one.
I also highly recommend you pull the thermostat out on your first drain and put the housing back without the thermostat. It only takes about 10 minutes and will save you 2.5 hrs or so in doing this whole procedure.

Ok now put the lower hose back on and the drain plug back in the block if you removed it. This is the procedure you will use each time to drain the system, except you will not touch the thermostat again until you're finished the whole procedure. Make sure that you set your heater to high while doing this to flush out the heater core as well.

Fill the cooling system with distilled water, start the truck and let the water circulate for 5 minutes. (if you did not remove the thermostat you must run the truck until the thermostat opens + 5 minutes to circulate. This takes 15 to 20 minutes each cycle and is why you should just remove the thermostat) Stop the engine. Drain the system and repeat the flush.

Now add at least 1/2 gallon of Restore and fill with distilled water. I used cardboard in front of the radiator because you have to get to 185* 190* for these products to work. Drive truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes just before you get back from your drive remove the cardboard this will help in the cool down same on the Restore+ flush. Drain and flush 3 or 4 times. or tell clean

Add 2qts VC-9 or 1/2gal of Restore Plus, top with distilled water, and drive the truck or run on high idle for 60-90 minutes. Now drain and flush until flush water comes out clear and clean. When you get clean flush water, flush 3 more times using distilled water while draining the block.

After your final distilled water drain it is time to put the thermostat back in. I recommend you install a new thermostat at this point. They are only $20 or so and it is good maintenance procedure to do so. Fill with 3.5 or 4 gals of ELC concentrated coolant and top off with distilled water. Drive the truck or let run for a while topping off with distilled water. Check the truck over the next few days and top up as required while any air left in the system works its way out.

Keep some 50/50 ELC on hand to use to top off the cooling system from here out and you are good to go.

new t/stat from Ford it should all come together (housing-t/stat-o-ring) in a box. The part number is RT-1169 If you get just the t/stat get a new o-ring you can order here Tousley Ford Parts Depot

Here is the Restore Product from Cummins dealer
http://www.fleetguard.com/pdfs/produ...LI33024-GB.pdf
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