HELP! Truck won't start. Total mystery!! - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 07-08-2013, 03:29 PM
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HELP! Truck won't start. Total mystery!!

Hello everybody. I am new to the forum. Please check out my problem.

Quick history: Truck in an 05 F250 6.0. I am the second owner and bought it January of 2012 with 68k miles on it. The previous owner did no towing, but would change the oil with coolant if he was the one doing it him self. 18 months later, the truck has 75k miles on it. I have deployed twice being that I am active duty.

The truck was lacking severe boost a few months back so I took the turbo out to see if the veins were sticking. Nope. The intake wheel was completely destroyed. I'm talking chunks missing from every blade and damage to the housing. It was a miracle the turbo even worked (boost worked normal about 50% of the time). Stock air box was fine, no dirt or pebbles in there so it was a mystery. Ended up sending the turbo out to Mad Turbo Werks and got a brand new one in with their upgraded billet 11 blade wheel.

While waiting, I did a Sinister full EGR delete. Got rid of the whole stock exhaust and got an MBRP straight pipe. Installed a brand new oil cooler and oil cooler screen, all new bolts O-rings, gaskets, intake gaskets, had the intake manifold and oil cooler housing washed in and out to the point of looking brand new, carbon free. Brand new K&N system. Full coolant flush, old oil out new oil in, new fuel and oil filters, and last the Sinister Coolant filtration system added. Truck is not leaking a drop.

So now after about 3 months of down time (mad turbo werks took awhile), the truck started up in about 5-7 cranks. Ran like a champ for ehh.. 4 seconds. tried to start again, and nothing. It turns over normally, but there is nothing there. My buddy is a certified Ford mechanic so he has been helping me. He said this is where I messed up. After I put the oil cooler screen in (drained the oil from the motor to look for debris), I didn't fill it back up. His dad who is a 30+ yr diesel mechanic said it sounds like 1 of 2 things: Either a spec of dirt not trapped by the oil went through the screen and punctured the IRP screen (I think that is what he said), or there is still air in the fuel lines and no oil pressure.

Hooked up a code reader, everything looks fine. Although after quite a bit of cranking to try and gain some oil pressure, the needle wouldn't even flinch.

Anybody have any ideas?!?! I don't have access to the socket to check the IPR and wouldn't even know whether or not it was bad. So I am ready to tow it to the Ford dealership. Just trying to avoid a grand in labor cost if there is a possible way to do it at home. Any insight will be appreciated. Thank you.
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Old 07-08-2013, 03:42 PM
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Wen you say code reader, what do you mean? Does it read PID's?

I know you're supposed to fill the HPOP resevoir after the cooler change, but I don't know the repercussion of not doing so. Does the oil filter bowl fill up while cranking and holding down the plunger? If so, the LPOP is working.

Short of tearing into it to find the issue, a PID reader should be used to check ICP and IPR values to see if you have enough oil pressure to fire it up. I would kind of be leaning to the IPR screen as you said the HPOP reservoir was empty and something could have fallen in there.
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Old 07-09-2013, 05:07 AM
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you can still remove the IPR without the special socket...the turbo just has to be out to do it. 12" crescent wrench will get it out. Then you can check your screen and replace it (think ford charges like $27 for a new screen kit) as long as the valve isn't stuck open. If you decide to pull it out yourself, you can check if it still works by supplying 12v where the pigtail connects. Should hear an audible click if the valve is engaging.

Otherwise, chances are there's still a big air pocket in the high pressure system. That 4 seconds might've been oil left in the rails able to fire the injectors until it ran out. I've heard of people pulling the FICM relay out and doing multiple extending cranks to prime the system again. That way you'll get oil back in there via the low pressure pump without the truck actually trying to start on you. I'd probably have a battery tender nearby to keep them healthy if you go this route. Or if you get that IPR out, I'd think you might be able to somehow funnel some oil into the HPOP through its hole. Just ideas

Last edited by dxusmc; 07-09-2013 at 07:06 AM.
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Old 07-09-2013, 06:03 AM
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When you said 5-7 cranks you meant; rurr, rurr, rurr, rurr, rurr, rurr, vromm! 4 seconds later; cough, blah. Correct?
......
To refill the HPO sump it will take a lot of cranking, very similar to when the oil-rails are pulled or after an air-test of the HPO system. 2 cranks of about 20 seconds one minute apart separated by another cranking session 5 minutes later should have enough oil in the system to start it. If you crank more than this, give the starter at least 30 minutes to cool or you will be buying a new starter as well.

You can pull the FICM control fuse and the glow plug module. This will help your batteries out during your cranking sessions.

Don't bother trying to introduce oil into the IPR port, it won't work as it is on the exit side of the pump.
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