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post #1 of 17 Old 06-24-2013, 04:52 PM Thread Starter
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Exclamation Bad leak HELP IMPORTANT

Hey guys, my trucks been running great and just today i found my truck was leaving a spot in parking spaces, so i took a picture.. any ideas guys? i'm tightening the drain screw but i'm positive its not that...


2007 Ford F250 Lariat 6.0 Powerstroke

mods:
Banks Ram air
Sinister Coolant Filter
Swamps 48V FICM with PHP Atlas 40
B&W turnover ball hitch
EGR Delete
Diesel Site Intercooler Boots
SCT livewire TS 5015 w/IDP custom tunes
Agressive street, Tow W/jake brake, Economy

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1999 Ford Mustang Cobra 4.6 32V V8
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post #2 of 17 Old 06-24-2013, 05:08 PM
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Check the EGR delete hose, look around turbo feed and drain tube, check around the glow plugs. Might even be the common rear main seal.


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post #3 of 17 Old 06-24-2013, 05:18 PM Thread Starter
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the vally is clean under the turbo and the hose seems to still be well attached and not greasy, .. glow plugs seam ok... so what do you mean by rear main seal and how much $$$ does that cost?

2007 Ford F250 Lariat 6.0 Powerstroke

mods:
Banks Ram air
Sinister Coolant Filter
Swamps 48V FICM with PHP Atlas 40
B&W turnover ball hitch
EGR Delete
Diesel Site Intercooler Boots
SCT livewire TS 5015 w/IDP custom tunes
Agressive street, Tow W/jake brake, Economy

Other rides:
2010 Ford Explorer 4.6 24V V8
1999 Ford Mustang Cobra 4.6 32V V8
Mods:
JLT True CAI
Smoked Heads/tails

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post #4 of 17 Old 06-24-2013, 05:44 PM
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rear main seal is the rear seal on your crank shaft. doesnt look that bad to me. i have seen much worse. but if it is a rear main the only way i know to change it is pull the motor or drop the transmission and try and go in that way. not rally sure on our trucks sorry! i know thats not what you wanted to hear.
here is a pic of one from a diff vehicle. i have heard of changing one out with motor still in truck but it wasnt 4wd or a diesel. maybe some one else will have better answers for ya.
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post #5 of 17 Old 06-24-2013, 05:46 PM Thread Starter
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ngaraiderman View Post
rear main seal is the rear seal on your crank shaft. doesnt look that bad to me. i have seen much worse. but if it is a rear main the only way i know to change it is pull the motor or drop the transmission and try and go in that way. not rally sure on our trucks sorry! i know thats not what you wanted to hear.
here is a pic of one from a diff vehicle. i have heard of changing one out with motor still in truck but it wasnt 4wd or a diesel. maybe some one else will have better answers for ya.
i sure as hell hope so.. i'm hoping i missed something small! or that its the oil pan!

2007 Ford F250 Lariat 6.0 Powerstroke

mods:
Banks Ram air
Sinister Coolant Filter
Swamps 48V FICM with PHP Atlas 40
B&W turnover ball hitch
EGR Delete
Diesel Site Intercooler Boots
SCT livewire TS 5015 w/IDP custom tunes
Agressive street, Tow W/jake brake, Economy

Other rides:
2010 Ford Explorer 4.6 24V V8
1999 Ford Mustang Cobra 4.6 32V V8
Mods:
JLT True CAI
Smoked Heads/tails

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post #6 of 17 Old 06-24-2013, 05:49 PM
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it really doesnt look that bad to me. my old F-150 use to leak a quart a week. so i just changed the filter every 3 months and considered it an oil change.

i would just try and wipe it as clean as possible and try drive it around a little and then use a good flashlight and get all up under the truck and check it out good.
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post #7 of 17 Old 06-24-2013, 05:50 PM
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maybe you could try posting in the general 6.0 forum. may get more hits that way, and maybe someone with better knowledge than i have
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post #8 of 17 Old 06-24-2013, 06:06 PM Thread Starter
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maybe.. i was hoping if this got enough bumps i'd get some help.. looks like i'm towing my 4K trailer and fully loaded truck with my uncle to NC without fixing this.. gallon of oil coming right up!

2007 Ford F250 Lariat 6.0 Powerstroke

mods:
Banks Ram air
Sinister Coolant Filter
Swamps 48V FICM with PHP Atlas 40
B&W turnover ball hitch
EGR Delete
Diesel Site Intercooler Boots
SCT livewire TS 5015 w/IDP custom tunes
Agressive street, Tow W/jake brake, Economy

Other rides:
2010 Ford Explorer 4.6 24V V8
1999 Ford Mustang Cobra 4.6 32V V8
Mods:
JLT True CAI
Smoked Heads/tails

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post #9 of 17 Old 06-24-2013, 08:39 PM
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It might not be the rear main seal. After I had my truck bulletproofed the mechanic who does job for sinister diesel said alot of ppl replace the rear main seal when it's actually the "Bed plate" Im not sure how this seals or anything but he said its a common problem on the 6.0's. also you can always try this...

My buddies dodge 04 2500 was leaking trans fluid pretty bad. I crawled under with a small 1/4in drive and was able to just snug up some of the trans bolts and the leak never case back.

don't reef on them because I believe its an aluminum housing. so I used a small 1/4in drive and just snugged them like 1/4 turn.

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post #10 of 17 Old 06-25-2013, 04:27 AM Thread Starter
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does anyone have a picture of a bed plate leaking.. cause this looks like its coming from the top of the back of the oil pan and dripping down the oil pan but nothing on the trans.. my trans LOOKS clean.. i couldn't find any helpful pictures through Google.. so i'm hoping someone here has some... i thought of the bed plate but was hoping not to pull an engine or have ford do it... if its the bed plate i'l have them do the rear main seal too and head studs.. i mean if i'm gonna dump that much $$$ and have the cab off why not... could it be an oil pump seal leak? should i get some florescent oil dye... but i don't have a special lamp to see it.. what would i need for a check like that?

2007 Ford F250 Lariat 6.0 Powerstroke

mods:
Banks Ram air
Sinister Coolant Filter
Swamps 48V FICM with PHP Atlas 40
B&W turnover ball hitch
EGR Delete
Diesel Site Intercooler Boots
SCT livewire TS 5015 w/IDP custom tunes
Agressive street, Tow W/jake brake, Economy

Other rides:
2010 Ford Explorer 4.6 24V V8
1999 Ford Mustang Cobra 4.6 32V V8
Mods:
JLT True CAI
Smoked Heads/tails

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