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Old 06-11-2013, 05:32 AM
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Question Engine Compartment Noise

Hey guys, hope you can shed some light on a new PS owner. I bought my 2005 F-350 XLT 6.0 from a dealer, who took it in trade from an older gentleman who apparently "used the truck for plowing his driveway and to tow his camper". The truck was really clean. Only had 57443 on the clock, no leaks from the motor. All around looks like it had an easy life. The only problem I am having is after the truck is warm. When the motor is cold it starts up with out hesitation. But after driving it and at Normal operating temp ill shut the truck off and return a short time after and when I go to start it up again i hear a high pitched whine coming from the engine bay. Almost sounds like a metal on metal whine. it only lasts a few seconds and then it goes away. i do not hear the sound when driving or if the engine is at idle or WOT. Ive searched for this problem but i only find posts about this sound being a constant. I have also seen that it might be the fan clutch assembly, makes sense that the fan comes on when its hot but wouldn't the sound be on all the time if the fan is going. Also saw something that it could be the alternator bearing. Also heard to spray it down with Electronic parts cleaner to see if it had excess build up on it. I am still driving it and it still pulls hard and would hate to be causing more damage to my investment.
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Old 06-11-2013, 05:43 AM
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Maybe somebody has had it happen to them before. Could you get a video of it and post it on youtube? Probably help with some of the tech's figuring out what it is.
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Old 06-11-2013, 05:55 AM
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I will try to get a video up soon.
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Old 06-11-2013, 05:21 PM
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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UOogUhXGnCw

or youtube "Weird Noise 6.0" . sorry i dont know how to put the URL in right.
It only lasted a few seconds. another thing to add that when this happens and you give it throttle it goes away until it reaches idle again and you here it for a few more seconds and it goes away
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Old 06-12-2013, 04:07 AM
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Wish I could help you on this one, but I've never encountered it before. I'm sure a tech might see it and have a better idea.

Might want to pop the hood before you start it..and try to locate what area its coming from. Because its only at idle I can't help to wonder if enough oil is getting to the turbo at startup..But, I may be way off my rocker here. Probably just have to try and pinpoint its location and troubleshoot from there.
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Old 06-12-2013, 05:23 AM
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I replayed it a few times, is the sound gone when you move in to the vehicle, or is it that you just can't hear it from the cab? When I first heard it it sounded like turbo whistle or whine. It could be metal scraping. Have you cleaned or inspected the turbo? It seems a bit strange for it to be that and show up warm, but oil helps center the shaft. You may not notice this cold due to no thermal expansion. It would help if you could isolate the noise. Remove the airbox and intake tube and check the turbo, give it a spin when cold with your finger and check for play. There will be some, so don't get excited if it lightly touches the side. Put it back together and warm it up. Do the same test warm. If it is the turbo, it might be from either wheel, if the turbine section is really dirty or corroded you won't know until you remove and inspect it. You may need new bearing/bushings.

From such a short clip it is tough to distinguish the noise over the web!

Last edited by twoicebergs; 06-12-2013 at 05:31 AM.
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:02 AM
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The sound stoped when I got in the cab. Going to try to brin it to Northeast performance deisel this friday
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Old 06-12-2013, 08:47 AM
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if you have some basic tools, I recommend checking the turbo yourself. You'd need 7/16 deep socket, 3" or 6" extension, 3/8 drive, 10mm and 8mm sockets, and a pry bar. It seems I'm not the only one that thought it sounded like the turbo. That's pulling the turbo. But pull the CAC boots off..and do as he said. See if there's play. Personally, because its so easy, I'd take the turbo apart..clean up all the vanes, unison ring, and everything they touch. Throw some anti-seize on there, buy the new $15 gasket and o-ring kit..put her back together. To take apart the turbo you'll need an 8mm 12-point socket. Pull the VGT solenoid before you separate so you don't break it. And the thing will only line up one way so don't worry about not getting it right. If anything, just mark where the clamp lines up so it gets it same seal, but that's not that big of a deal if you torque it correctly.

And with it apart, you could actually order a rebuild kit and have someone rebuild it for you (or yourself) and save yourself about 1000 benjys. That is, if its bad.
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:26 PM
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Ended up being a cracked Y pipe. thank you Ben at Northeast performance diesel. And better yet the Dealer is replacing it
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Old 06-17-2013, 12:27 PM
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Glad you got it figured out. Just wish I could do the same for mine ha
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