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Old 06-10-2013, 08:10 PM
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'06 power stroke

I just bought an '06 F-350 w/6.0
With reading some of the threads I'm beginning to wonder if I should have.
Do I need to do all the upgrades listed? Or have the problems been cured with the 06 model. I kinda wonder also because mine is a early model made Sept '05.

My first dumb question is, where is the oil filter?
Do you think I need the ARP head studs or has it been fixed from factory.
Do I need to add an oil cooler and where does it go?

I've had my 95 dually 7.3 crew cab for 13 years and there is nothing like it on my '06.

Gene
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  #2  
Old 06-10-2013, 08:26 PM
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First thing you "GOTTA DO" is grab a monitor. Once you install that and get a idea of the health of your truck then you can figure what way you need to go.
Are you just gonna haul the boat to the lake on Saturdays? Or are you gonna beat the heck out of the truck? Do you wanna tune the truck for max horse power? Well then ya your probably gonna need arp studs. Guess what Im saying is it all depends on what you wanna do with your truck.
And may I suggest you grab a copy of the 6.0 bible. Kinda like a great Chilton manual. Can find it on amazon pretty cheap.
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Old 06-10-2013, 10:42 PM
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I too have a 2006 SuperDuty with the 6.0 and it just needs to be maintained.

Oil filter is on top of the engine the larger of the 2 . The smaller one is your secondary fuel filter.
Look up 6.0 coffee table book and you can download that and get a real good education on the engine. There are several books get the 2003 and the 2005 up ones.

Like kinnisoj stated get yourself some gauges for the truck. I have the ScanGaugeII for my truck, they cost $ 160.00 at Auto Zone and it is a on the shelf item. This plugs into your OBDII port under the dash and you leave it plugged in all the time. This will allow you to monitor the engine as you drive and can also be used to trouble shoot it in the case you have a problem. Its also a code reader so for the money there is nothing that beats the ScanGaugeII.

I use it to monitor the oil and engine coolant temps. Also the FICM and alternator at all times. There are 24 different things you can program it to monitor anytime you wish to see whatever point.

You don't need studs or a egr delete or anything else if you leave it alone and don't tune it. What you do need to do is maintain it !!
Oil: should be a synthetic 5W/40 and ONLY use Motorcraft filters. Change it every 5,000 miles.
Fuel filters: again Motorcraft ONLY. change them every 10,000 miles
Coolant: Ford Gold has been a problem for the 6.0 when it is ran too long. The coolant has silicates that can become a problem because of the high heat it endures from the egr cooler over time.
Solution for this is: Flush out the cooling system with Cascade liquid dishwasher soap and flush out good with water then distilled water. Replace the coolant with Cat EC1 coolant. You should then invest $160.00 into a coolant filter that is well worth the money to ensure a clean cooling system.
The cooling system can have debris in it and if it gets into the oil cooler it will plug it up. If this happens it sets off a chain of events that is what gave the 6.0 it's negative reputation.
Basically the oil is cooled from the cooling system with a oil cooler that is under the intake manifold. After the coolant goes through the oil cooler it goes through the egr cooler then back to the radiator. If the oil cooler plugs up the flow of coolant is reduced to a point that it can no longer keep the egr cooler at a safe temp. If this happens the egr cooler will reach temperatures where it will crack and leak coolant into the intake manifold. From there it can go into the combustion chamber then causing extremely high cylinder pressures and blowing the head gaskets.

So you want to make sure you keep the cooling system on your truck clean. A ELC type coolant is what International uses in all of their engines. Ford on the other hand wants to sell their product for the Powerstroke of coarse. In reality the Ford Gold is fine to use as long as it is changed every 25,000 miles. I myself do the same 25,000 miles with the ELC coolant so run whichever you choose, but most of us have gone with the ELC like the Cat EC1 coolant. Mainly because it is silicate free and will go much longer without changing then the Ford Gold would ever last.
Ok so flush the cooling system and install a coolant filter. There are several different brands of coolant filters including some newer full flow models that filter much faster then the most common ones like my (Sinister) model.

So changing the oil and filters also change your fuel filters and deal with the cooling system. By doing these things and keeping on a proper schedule you will eliminate the problems that you can have with a 6.0 engine. I hope I didn't throw out too much at you but that is the basic facts on a 6.0 liter PowerStroke.

I'm not done yet, once you get that ScanGauge program in the oil and coolant PID's and take the truck for a 30 minute drive on the highway at 65 mph on level ground. What you want to do here is determine the health of your oil cooler now.
What you should see with a good oil cooler is: ECT temps around 195* and your EOT temps 5*-9* degrees above the ECT temps. (ECT=engine coolant temps) and the other abrv. is : ( EOT=engine oil temps) If you are in this range your engine is good to go just do the coolant change along with oil and fuel filter maintenance.

There are other points to look at like FICM should be at 48 volts all the time period.
There is also a fuel pressure regulator upgrade worth the time and money. $ 40.00 and about 30 minutes to install the newer upgraded spring. This will raise the fuel pressure back to 60 psi, the original spring was too soft and it looses spring pressure therefore dropping the fuel pressure.

I hope I didn't overload you here, there are some things that should be done with the 6.0 to make it reliable. These are what it needs to have a reliable engine. Head studs or egr delete is not must do items unless you are going to tune the engine.I have 82,000 miles on my truck and it runs like a Swiss Watch. The 6.0 will leave the 7.3 in the dust in every category. It has a much higher degree of engineering then the 7.3 could ever wish for. But with this comes more critical maintenance schedules that need to be kept up on.

You have a great engine with loads of power and it can be tuned even with the factory tty head bolts you just need to know which tune is right for you conditions. Congrats on the truck odds are it will be the best one you ever owned.
Mark....
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Old 06-10-2013, 10:56 PM
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hello,
Thanks for the reply. My truck only has 45,000 miles. So i'm hoping all is still good. It seams it is bone stock. The coolant looks yelowish clear to me. What color is the special coolant I need.
I will use the truck to go camping with my boys and I'm into drag racing, so I tow an open trailer with a 3500 pound car. No max horse power, but enough to climb the hills to Las Vegas while towing.
What is involved in rebuilding the oil cooler and do I need to add an external cooler also.
So if the oil filter is on top, it must be a big mess to change it.
Is it a good idea to get a "K&N" air filter?
Being in Calif. I need to keep the EGR, is there a better cooler to add on?
Sounds like all this can get into $$$%
Once i get the most important items done, this should be a great truck.
What is the name of the book I need to get?

Gene

Last edited by Big green dully; 06-10-2013 at 11:02 PM.
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  #5  
Old 06-10-2013, 11:18 PM
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Mark
you have a PM

Gene
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Old 06-11-2013, 05:03 AM
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You might also go back to around the 2003 postings on here and start reading. You can go from the moment these guys got the "newest latest and the greatest" and how they loved the truck. Then you can just see the issues start to pop up. And then the dreaded oil cooler egt monster came out,and also how they fixed them. Very good read. ALOT of info on here you just gotta dig around a bit.
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Old 06-11-2013, 05:29 AM
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Lets see If I can help. It isn't too bad of a mess to change the oil filter because it is a cartridge filter instead of a spin-on type just be sure to have towels nearby. I don't think that you need to switch to a K&N air filter, the one that is on the truck is supposed to be good for up to nearly 500 horsepower.
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  #8  
Old 06-11-2013, 06:05 AM
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the air filter on the truck already is one of the best for it..I bought a K&N before realizing this..and it hasn't improved anything..just really makes it a pain in the butt when you have to work on the truck because it has like 16 allen head screws holding the cover on. Also, for changing the oil filter..I normally unscrew it so there's no pressure..let it sit there for a second so the bowl drains back into the engine. Then I pull the filter up a bit more so its sort of at an angle to drain the remaining oil from the filter back into the housing, then just a papertowel underneath it while holding the cap = no drips on my engine. Might take a little bit longer, but usually when I'm letting the filter drain back down, I'm also pulling my plug and such, so its not a big deal
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Old 06-11-2013, 08:38 AM
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Not to steal your thread but I have a quick coolant question since you mentioned it earlier. One of these days if the weather permits I would like to flush my coolant but I have been seeing a lot of posts about people clogging their oil coolers in the process. Is this something that I should be concerned about if I just flush with distilled water and use Ford Premium Gold coolant instead of switching to CAT ELC?
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Old 06-11-2013, 09:06 AM
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its the Restore and Restore Plus aka VC-9 that might let some stuff lose to your oil cooler. If you're just doing a "simple" flushe with tap water I wouldn't be too concerned about it. I know you said distilled..but you might have to buy stock in Poland Springs for the amount it takes to flush. Edit: I've also heard of people "reverse" flushing after using Restore or Restore Plus to unclog, but I've never tried it so I'm not sure how correct that is.

If you're worried about knocking something lose into the cooler, use tap water to flush. Be sure to pull both drain plugs on the block. Passenger side you'll have to remove the starter unless you can rig up a special tool to get around it..its been done. Use Distilled water on your final flush with the plugs reinstalled. This will leave something like 3 gallons or so of distilled water in the block. Then add the correct amount of ELC concentrate (recommended over Ford Gold) and top off with distilled.
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