What Would You Do? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 3 Old 04-19-2013, 08:16 AM Thread Starter
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Unhappy What Would You Do?

Hello All,

I bought my 05 SD in May of 2012. The truck had a remanufactured engine put in at 25k and I bought the truck with about 75k on it. They replaced the VVT solenoid as I had an under-boost condition and CEL the day after I bought it. Other than that, the truck ran great and still does (for the most part!). It now has just under 88k.

A few months ago I noticed bluish smoke on cold startup and recently even a little smoke after warm at idle. No codes, no lack of power, etc.

So, yesterday I brought it to the dealer for a coolant flush and tranny service, just because I am not sure when either was done. I had them check for codes (nothing) but then check the EOT vs. ECT...and that's where my problems started.

At idle, I have a 16 degree delta and during driving it is 20.
They said I need to replace the EGR Cooler, Oil Cooler, the turbo is worn and may need a rebuild or replacement, the fan clutch?? is bad, the EGR valve need to be cleaned, and on and on. I am looking at somewhere in the ballpark of $6k to fix this thing and I have no warranty. When I bought it I figure with reman engine and turbo and the fact that the rest of the truck was flawless I would be okay...

So, my question since many of you have been in the same situation: Should I rob a bank and fix it or trade it in, preferably to a different dealer. I'm guessing that's what was done before I bought it.
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post #2 of 3 Old 04-19-2013, 10:09 AM
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I kept mine...

How handy are you? I did mine myself.

New turbo at 88K, maybe but that doesn't seem likely. If you have the work done, any reputable mechanic will service (clean the vanes) on your turbo and inspect it while it's off. It needs to come off for the oil cooler.

These trucks have some inherent problems, the oil cooler is one of them. If you decide to do the work or get it done, make sure you flush your coolant system first with Restore and Restore Plus (described in detail on the forum). Install a coolant filter and run it for hundreds of miles before changing the oil cooler (change out the filter at least three times during these hundreds of miles) to catch all the crap broken loose during the flush. That filter (and your clogged oil cooler) should capture most of what broken loose from your flush. Skipping this step will likely result in your new cooler clogging to some degree with the residual crap in your system.

Your problem was probably started by poor intervals on coolant flushes and the use of Ford Gold coolant. Change your coolant to CAT ELC-1 and you should have better luck!

Depending on where you live and the smog regulations you can either delete your EGR cooler or install one made by Bulletproof. Their design is better and it will not (should not) clog up. You have to pull the intake and EGR cooler to get at the oil cooler, and the EGR cooler is a known weakness in this truck. Skipping this step would be a mistake.

Cleaning the EGR valve is a simple job for anyone with the slightest mechanical ability. Several posts and videos here about the process.

If you are up for the oil cooler than the fan clutch is nothing? Check out this great write up...

::Water Pump Upgrade::BPD Water Pump Install Write-up::

You are looking at a couple of grand if you do the work yourself. If not, maybe look for advice here on a good diesel mechanic around you and get a second opinion and price for the work.

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2005 6.0 Lariat Crew Cab 4x4 Short Bed
SCT X3 Tuner, Looney Tune from Quick Tricks
Bulletproof EGR Cooler (I live in CA, smog mecca)
FICM with Atlas40 from FICMrepair.com
Updated Standpipes, Dummy Plugs and STC
4" Turbo Back Magnaflow Exhaust
DC Power 185 amp alternator and wiring upgrade
Blue Spring
Coolant Filter
CAT EC-1 Coolant
Dashboss Monitoring including pyro and fuel pressure
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post #3 of 3 Old 04-20-2013, 01:06 PM
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once the turbo is out of the way, everything is cake after that. the EGR cooler has to come out for the Oil Cooler anyway, so i would get Bullet Proof Diesels blocked off EGR cooler. looks stock, but is non-functional. and trust me, you cant tell its a "fake" cooler. i had no idea i had the blocked BPD cooler until it was already off

in all honesty, if you are even slightly good with hand tools, you could do the whole process in a weekend. only thing that will take you longer will be actually having to remove the Intake manifold. thats still no big deal though.

there are plenty of write-ups and How-To's on here. dont be scared of it, just dive in.

-Tyler- -Navistar Technician-
2004 F250 CCSB FX4 6.0 - XDP EGR delete, BPD Oil Cooler Relocation, SCT Livewire TS, 315/75/16 Falken Wildpeak A/T's, Rough Country 4in, stock DP with 4in straight pipe.
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