Join Date: Jul 2012
Location: Sacramento area
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that bulletproof oil cooler is outstanding, but it costs a lot. I opted to keep it stock and change the filter and coolant out. Hopefully I don't regret it.
These trucks are pretty reliable if you keep up on your maintenance. The maintenance is costly, but worth it in my opinion. Here's a short list:
Get a monitoring system that includes a fuel pressure gauge, and exhaust gas temperature (aka EGT)
Sounds like you know about fuel pressure as you have the blue spring. 45psi and under and you have a problem
FICM voltage should never drop below 45, when key is on and engine is off, when cranking or when running. If it is you have a problem that will take out injectors
Batterys need to be in good condition and changed in pairs, not one at a time. One will drag down the other. Should read over 12v while glow plugs are on (first few minutes after starting) and then gradually climb to over 13.
Exhaust gas temp tells you if you are flogging your engine too hard, if you are you will likely have a head gasket problem. Our trucks are tuned to generate a lot of ponies with relatively little mass. So, small rods, small valves, and sadly a poorly engineered (in my opinion) fastener for the head. We have bolts and not studs, and not enough of them. Most agree that you are stressing our truck at 1200*. I try to keep mine at 1000* or less.
Use sythetic oil, and change it frequently. I'm using Rotella every 3500 miles. It's over $100 every oil change when you include the filters. Speaking of filters, use OEM. The aftermarket often have design flaws that cause all kinds of problems. Racor is the OEM manufacturer and is identical to motorcraft. Change both fuel filters every other oil change.
Another two cents on the oil, our trucks are dependent on good oil. The High Pressure Oil pump runs the injectors and there are several very cranky oil systems to keep happy. Don't save money on oil changes!
I think you already know about coolant temp. Your oil shouldn't climb to more than 15* over your coolant at 70mph on a flat road. Under strain those numbers don't apply. If they do you almost certainly have an oil cooler problem. You shouldnt get much over 210 except under load and working hard. 220 and over, you have or are causing a problem.
There's plenty more to do if you want to, but those are the biggies if you ask me. Do that stuff right and you will likely have a reliable truck for a long time!
2005 6.0 Lariat Crew Cab 4x4 Short Bed
SCT X3 Tuner, Looney Tune from Quick Tricks
Bulletproof EGR Cooler (I live in CA, smog mecca)
FICM with Atlas40 from FICMrepair.com
Updated Standpipes, Dummy Plugs and STC
4" Turbo Back Magnaflow Exhaust
DC Power 185 amp alternator and wiring upgrade
CAT EC-1 Coolant
Dashboss Monitoring including pyro and fuel pressure