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post #1 of 8 Old 04-16-2013, 06:19 PM Thread Starter
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coolant question

I'm a first timer here so be gentle. 06 6.0 with 53k no mods. I put a coolant filter on about a two months ago. lost about a half gallon of coolant. went to dealer asked for premium gold. Got home ,filled her up. no worries. son comes over yesterday and says its the wrong coolant. its ford gold, not premium gold. will this screw up my oil cooler? going to do egr delete and oil cooler change in a little over a month. am I good till then? or do I drain and refill?
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post #2 of 8 Old 04-16-2013, 07:06 PM
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Ill bet ya its the same stuff just the premium cost a bit more. If your changing the oil cooler out and your gonna flush all that gold junk out and run some good stuff,,,(right???)I wouldnt sweat it

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post #3 of 8 Old 04-16-2013, 07:12 PM
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Change it out.

so I suggest you consider (before you do the oil cooler and egr delete) flush with restore and resotre plus. restore plus is to clean out the scale and rust. restore is to remove the silicates from ford coolant. look on this site and you will find very good information on this flush. it is a must in my opinion.
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post #4 of 8 Old 04-18-2013, 02:06 PM
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I agree completely with RickBigO. Here's the problem, your oil cooler is probably clogged because the Ford Gold creates sludge (silicate) that blocks the little passages. Many people change their cooler only to have the new one clog with the residual crap that is still in their cooling system. This is expecially true after you do a flush with Restore and Restore Plus. That stuff works great to break everything loose, but then the problem is that everything is broken loose! I recommend doing the reverse flush described on this forum, it's a pain so buckle up! Then flush with Restore and Restore plus. You will then need to flush out the restore and Restore plus multiple times with distilled water, which in itself is an hours long process. Once you have done this, change your coolant filter. Run it for a couple of hundred miles and change it again. I recommend doing this every few hundred miles for at least a thousand miles. You don't want to have to do your oil cooler twice, or three times as some on the here have had to do.

I flushed mine and then ran it for a few hundred miles with no filter. Then I changed my oil cooler and put in ELC-1 rated coolant (that is what you should use instead of the Ford Gold by the way). My cooler is working OK, but isn't where it should be. My deltas sometimes get up to 11* on flat ground at highway speeds, they should be closer to 5* or less.....

Best of luck, hope that didn't sound like a lecture. I just wish I knew that when I tackled mine!


2005 6.0 Lariat Crew Cab 4x4 Short Bed
SCT X3 Tuner, Looney Tune from Quick Tricks
Bulletproof EGR Cooler (I live in CA, smog mecca)
FICM with Atlas40 from FICMrepair.com
Updated Standpipes, Dummy Plugs and STC
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post #5 of 8 Old 04-18-2013, 04:39 PM Thread Starter
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thanks for all the info. most of the stuff on these forums just makes me paranoid. I was very apprehensive when I first bought the truck last summer but hey, an 06 with only 48k on it, plus I had very good knlege of the history and use. figured Id give it a shot. don't need a racer. just need it to last...and last........
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post #6 of 8 Old 04-18-2013, 04:44 PM Thread Starter
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oh, by the way. I said no mods. I don't know what yall consider mods. I have done the blue spring and a 4" turbo back straight. and the coolant filter
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post #7 of 8 Old 04-18-2013, 04:59 PM
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or if you have the extra coin get a Bullet Proof Diesel external oil cooler installed like i did and never look back

WRECKED EM DAMN NEAR KILLED EM! 2005 f250 ccsb 4x4 Studded, 03 turbo w/billet wheel, AFE stage2, 5"diamond eye, BPD egr cooler & "NEW" external oil cooler, BPD 48v FICM, BPD water pump, BPD aluminum radiator, 6.4 banjo's, blue spring, HFCM e-z drain, riff raff boots, gearhead srl tune , PHP FICM tune, sct livewire 5015, updated stc, updated stand pipes & dummy plugs, updated oil feed & drain, Zerex ELC coolant, Pro Comp 6" lift, 325/70/17 Toyo open country at
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post #8 of 8 Old 04-18-2013, 07:02 PM
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that bulletproof oil cooler is outstanding, but it costs a lot. I opted to keep it stock and change the filter and coolant out. Hopefully I don't regret it.

These trucks are pretty reliable if you keep up on your maintenance. The maintenance is costly, but worth it in my opinion. Here's a short list:

Get a monitoring system that includes a fuel pressure gauge, and exhaust gas temperature (aka EGT)

Sounds like you know about fuel pressure as you have the blue spring. 45psi and under and you have a problem
FICM voltage should never drop below 45, when key is on and engine is off, when cranking or when running. If it is you have a problem that will take out injectors
Batterys need to be in good condition and changed in pairs, not one at a time. One will drag down the other. Should read over 12v while glow plugs are on (first few minutes after starting) and then gradually climb to over 13.
Exhaust gas temp tells you if you are flogging your engine too hard, if you are you will likely have a head gasket problem. Our trucks are tuned to generate a lot of ponies with relatively little mass. So, small rods, small valves, and sadly a poorly engineered (in my opinion) fastener for the head. We have bolts and not studs, and not enough of them. Most agree that you are stressing our truck at 1200*. I try to keep mine at 1000* or less.

Use sythetic oil, and change it frequently. I'm using Rotella every 3500 miles. It's over $100 every oil change when you include the filters. Speaking of filters, use OEM. The aftermarket often have design flaws that cause all kinds of problems. Racor is the OEM manufacturer and is identical to motorcraft. Change both fuel filters every other oil change.

Another two cents on the oil, our trucks are dependent on good oil. The High Pressure Oil pump runs the injectors and there are several very cranky oil systems to keep happy. Don't save money on oil changes!

I think you already know about coolant temp. Your oil shouldn't climb to more than 15* over your coolant at 70mph on a flat road. Under strain those numbers don't apply. If they do you almost certainly have an oil cooler problem. You shouldnt get much over 210 except under load and working hard. 220 and over, you have or are causing a problem.

There's plenty more to do if you want to, but those are the biggies if you ask me. Do that stuff right and you will likely have a reliable truck for a long time!

Cheers


2005 6.0 Lariat Crew Cab 4x4 Short Bed
SCT X3 Tuner, Looney Tune from Quick Tricks
Bulletproof EGR Cooler (I live in CA, smog mecca)
FICM with Atlas40 from FICMrepair.com
Updated Standpipes, Dummy Plugs and STC
4" Turbo Back Magnaflow Exhaust
DC Power 185 amp alternator and wiring upgrade
Blue Spring
Coolant Filter
CAT EC-1 Coolant
Dashboss Monitoring including pyro and fuel pressure
Zoodad Mod
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