Cold No Start problem - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
 
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post #1 of 7 Old 03-24-2013, 09:55 AM Thread Starter
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Cold No Start problem

Having a cold no start problem with my stock 04 F250, a week ago it lost power then stalled on me would barely accelerate, not towing a thing, after a few minutes I was able to start it and get home with lack of power, this was all while the truck was cold in the morning before it was close to normal operating temp, got home it was parked for a few minutes went back out to put a scanner on it and start... ran perfect took it for ride no issues for a week, keep in mind now the truck is up to normal operating temps.

Fast forward a week of driving with no problems. I go out to my truck and nothing just cranks...

First thing I pulled the plug and check for water none, then took the batteries and had them tested, cant troubleshoot electronics if the batteries are weak, they are strong

Here's what I have so far guys
No codes in PCM

key on engine off

FICM 48.5
ICP 0.24V

While cranking

I have a 4 pin FICM and I'm taking the reading on the driver side pin
FICM voltage is jumping all over the place 13-48v when it settles out its sits at 40v or 48v, Tried reading this a few times every time I would go back to Key on engine off voltage went to 48.5v

ICP 0.66V on average its jumping all over the place 0.4-0.68V... I dont think this is enough but I would think I would have had a Hot start problem first or hard starts first befiore it just died

read FICM V @ FICM, my matco scan tool doesnt display it or IPR info for some reason or I would have that too

Thanks for any help
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post #2 of 7 Old 03-24-2013, 10:24 AM
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Try taking a blow dryer and heating up the ficm with it, then see how it starts.
Mt obvious thought are you have a ficm issue, you should be 47-48 volts all the time at all temps and rpm,s.

Battery voltage is very important and if the truck has a alternator failure or just as simple as bad batteries in the past it will take out the ficm.
Start there with the blow dryer to heat it up, what that will do is make the connections more conductive and will help voltage to be higher.
Like I said 47-48 volts ALWAYS. Also make sure all three plugs are latched for ficm.


2006 F250 LARIAT CCSB 4X4
ARP Studs, O-Ringed Heads
X4 PHP 65 HP Custom Tow Tune
Atlas40 or Atlas80 Ficm Tune
CAT EC-1 Coolant, IPR Coolant filter
BPD Waterpump, BPD way of thinking
Fass-125 to a Adjustable Pressure Reg.
Turbo-back SS 4" pipe, Corsa Muffler -7" Tip
6.4 starter, DC Power 270 amp alt
Die Hard Platinum AGM all 2/0 Cables
Fabtech Radius Arms
7" lift w: Icon Progressive Coil Springs
2008 up Carli/Deaver rear springs
All riding on some Fatty-Daddy 38/15.50/18 Toyo's
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post #3 of 7 Old 03-24-2013, 11:44 AM Thread Starter
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Just went back out after this morning. Wanted to let the batteries charge back up,

CMP CKP sync is OK while cranking

Injector Control Pressure DutyCycle is 14.9% key on engine off and 85% when cranking, I think this is the IPR % not 100% sure though

No luck with the hair dryer still acting the same voltage-wise
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post #4 of 7 Old 03-24-2013, 12:14 PM
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You have a failed FICM and a HPO leak.

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post #5 of 7 Old 03-24-2013, 01:07 PM Thread Starter
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time to put a ficm in it so it starts and trade it in, tired of this constant one thing after another. My experience with my F150 (100K nothing but fluid changes) led me to not believe all hype about these powerstrokes being prone to **** breaking, guess I might as well go all the way down to the heads and stud them, new injectors, stand pipes, hpop, bulletproof oil and egr coolers, and I have a truck ready for another 170k...

Last edited by Dave's_HD_SD; 04-26-2013 at 11:25 PM.
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post #6 of 7 Old 04-26-2013, 11:23 PM Thread Starter
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UPDATE: I've been working so much I had to take my truck into the shop, like it was said HP oil leak and FICM bad. Wouldn't start with just the Swamps 58V FICM changed.

So I have the following being installed a Sinister master solution kit(Ford head gaskets, studs, oil cooler, !egr) a Ford HPOP, STC update, turbo drain line update, stand pipes and dummy plugs, blue spring kit, Sinister coolant filter and intake elbow(cause its purdy), 4" Magnaflow straight pipe kit, EDGE juice w/ attiude CTS and pyro

Not trying to build a race truck, just want reliable and I think this will do it, if the motor comes apart studded it's time for a new truck. Still have less than 1/2 the cost of a new truck($65K) into it total including parts labor and initial purchase and no DEF to worry about lol, maybe it will last another 170k now

Last edited by Dave's_HD_SD; 04-26-2013 at 11:29 PM.
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post #7 of 7 Old 05-11-2013, 09:36 PM Thread Starter
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First of all I'd like to thank Rob's Garage in Delran,NJ and his mechanic Jimmy for a great job and communicating what was going on the whole time my truck was up there.

This started with a failed FICM and HPOP and turned into me biting the bullet and bulletproofing my 6.0(lame pun intended). After getting everything together and installed they hooked the CTS and Juice with Attitude tuner, it started making the truck stall and difficult to start, they pulled the module out and it ran fine. Installed again problem back, so under the advice of Jimmy (who I should have listened to in the first place) instead of getting a replacement edge I went with an SCT Livewire.

Went to pick up my truck with my brother following and holy crap! I pulled out of Rob's and got sideways not expecting that kind of power until I get the Innovative tunes in the email, now I drag race and been around fast cars my whole life but Ive never felt something that big get up that quick... i pulled up next to my brother who drove me up to pick it up and said Im gonna wind up in jail before i get home, then stop to get fuel and said to him this thing sounds like a pissed off elephant when i get on it and its gettin 17mpg.

My Dads old school I took him for a ride. He says diesels arent supposed to run like this, then I really got into and he says there not supposed to sound like this either. I dont think he could believe how fast the truck was bawhaha!

Now I gotta figure out why the pyro stopped working. It read no higher than 800 on the trip home made a few stops and was still working. After I got home and parked I went out to start it up and reads 2900-3100 all the time even with a cold to the touch manifold, hoping it came unplugged some where. Guess it never ends... but i can handle a pyro lol

04 F250 Harley ed. 6.0 CCSB 4x4
ARP studs w/ FoMoCo gaskets
Oil cooler/Blue spring/turbo line/stc/standpipe updates
EGR delete
Swamps 58V FICM
SCT Livewire w/Innovative Xtreme tunes
4in turbo back straight pipe

Last edited by Dave's_HD_SD; 05-11-2013 at 09:51 PM.
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