Rough start clears then misses for a while

[etodd21]

Bit of history and im sorry for the story. bought the truck at a dealer auction 2004 F250 lariat 2wd for a steal, drive it home an ran amazing for the hour trip, found a sticker saying bdp.com an started poking an its got the bpd egr cooler an oil filter relocation/cooler w/thermostat, super excited an it has 163xxx I have poured through the forums exhaustively speculating as to what could be wrong. I don't have money to throw at my truck right at the moment or get a data logger either. Next morning i discovered i have some kinda issue. It starts up fine with a slight miss pulled codes an 7 and 8 cylinders have bad glow plugs, once it runs for maybe a minute or two it clears up. Idles perfect, get going down the road after letting it warm up a good deal and it misses noticably for about 4-5 miles or so then quits. Don't matter if I'm babying it getting up to speed or gradually getting up to 60. Even after it quits missing if I get into the gas a bit to get up a hill I feel it miss. Pulled a code for #4 cylinder high voltage cleared an haven't seen it again, tired another time an seen #6 cylinder contribution. Changed fuel filters, ran cleaner thru the system an still does it. Changed oil rotella 15/40 an rev-x still does it.
Ideas? Thoughts? Suggestions? I don't have much at all to throw at it an I am the lead tech at my shop. Gas burners as my specialty but I wanted a diesel hardcore for towing an the lariat to look good doin it too.

[etodd21]

Forgot when I've almost gone halfway to work (bout 20 miles ish) runs perfectly fine without any issue at all an dont do a funny thing all day long

[twoicebergs]

Sounds like stiction.

[2004tonner]

Originally Posted by twoicebergs

Sounds like stiction.

I've been experiencing this as well with mine. What is stiction? I'm guessing a sticky injector? If so, how do you fix it? Sorry to hijack, but who writes a response like that and doesn't explain themselves a little more?

[Capt Trashy]

Look at his signature, the link will tell you how to fix it

[etodd21]

Really cool! Right up my alley! Cheap an DIY! Got plenty of sandpaper running around. Also had a battery light plaguing me without being able to swap the alternator, would that screw with some injectors?

[twoicebergs]

It screws with the FICM, which can screw with the injectors (damaged coils if the FICM fails the wrong way), depending what else is happening, such as without enough voltage and current, low fuel pressure will dry the nozzles/create wear for lack of proper lubrication at the nozzles and plunger.

[etodd21]

Ok. I've parked it for now until I can get me an alternator an then fresh batteries. See what's going on then hopefully nothing expensive after that, how do you test the ficm voltage without a datalogger?

[twoicebergs]

Save yourself the aggravation and get a monitor. Carefully, you can remove the small test panel off the FICM and use a small tester. The search function works very well on this forum. There are even vids of it on U-tube. You need good batteries to test it properly, KOEO - (key on, engine off), cranking and running, both cold and warm. Typically if it works cold and during start, it usually works warm, but not always, due to bad solder connections internally.

BTW, bad batteries kill alternator, and bad alternators kill batteries. They both kill FICMs.

[etodd21]

Alrite, well I've got it parked up for now so I don't do some kinda godawful Damage an end up spending a whole lot more cuz I wanna drive