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post #1 of 12 Old 02-28-2013, 11:20 AM Thread Starter
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cooling system flush

Was wondering what need to use to flush my cooling system. I had an oil cooler rupture. So i have oil in the system. any idles. thanks Chris.

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post #2 of 12 Old 02-28-2013, 05:52 PM
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Ok you have a couple of good options:

(1) Simple Green straight solution pour in a few cups and run it up to temp and repeat several times as needed.

(2) Liquid Cascade 2/3 of a cup or so and run up to temp and repeat as necc.

You may want to do Simple Green first and then move on to Cascade to finish it up. I used Liquid Cascade on my cooling system when I switched over to a ELC-1 coolant and was very happy with the results, I was not going to put a acid in it and create a problem with my oil cooler. These cleaners are much more mild but will break down the oil and get it out of the cooling system.
The heater works much better now after using it, I now have put on around 9,000 miles on truck and my Delta temps are still in the 4-5 degree range so it worked well.

Now you should install a coolant filter on the truck to help protect your oil cooler and when you do flush the system pull all the hoses off coolant tank also the heater return line on passenger side as well as the upper and lower hoses. Run a hose through all of them in both directions and don't forget to pull at least the drivers side block plug to get the heavy debris that settle to the bottom of block.
Do all of this flush work WITHOUT the thermostat in it to ensure good flow throughout the system. Engine will take alot longer to heat up but you need to get it up to at least 170* to get the oil thin enough to flush out. Go for some 30 mile trips on the highway, that will do it.

Good Luck with it and take your time to get it all out............ Get yourself a new "OEM ONLY" Motorcraft thermostat and install when your done. Also a great time to get the Ford Gold out of it and go with a ELC-1 type coolant 4 gallons will do it only buy straight 100% coolant and top off with distilled water.
Oh yea the last coolant flush needs to be done with distilled water only so you get all the hard water minerals out of the cooling system.
Now I'm done.. .. .. .... ..


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Last edited by mhatlen; 02-28-2013 at 06:01 PM.
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post #3 of 12 Old 02-28-2013, 07:19 PM Thread Starter
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cooling system flush

Sounds like good advice . And thanks for the reply.


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post #4 of 12 Old 03-01-2013, 02:57 PM
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what I've seen recommended is Simple Green HD, which isn't green (it's purple). You will need to replace all the rubber hoses touched by coolant, heater, radiator, EGR, etc. after the flush.

2005 F-250 XLT SuperCab long bed 135k. Torque Pro. 3X Fumoto's. Dieselsite coolant filter. BPD EGR cooler. Blue Spring. Rotella ELC. Rotella T6. Rev-X this year. Archoil 9100 last year. Improved HFCM plug. 24" wipers. PIE. AutoEnginuity.
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post #5 of 12 Old 03-04-2013, 05:36 AM
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New hoses necessary?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Idahoser View Post
You will need to replace all the rubber hoses touched by coolant, heater, radiator, EGR, etc. after the flush.
Thanks for the info, but can you tell me why it's necessary to replace all the rubber hoses in the cooling system after doing this flush process? I'm getting ready to flush my system and I've done a lot of reading on this forum, but I have not read anything about this before. My truck has 54k miles. Thanks!

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post #6 of 12 Old 03-04-2013, 05:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhatlen View Post
. . .when you do flush the system pull all the hoses off coolant tank also the heater return line on passenger side as well as the upper and lower hoses. Run a hose through all of them in both directions . . .
Hi, would you please explain/describe this procedure in greater detail? Thanks.

ROB
2006 F350 Lariat CC LB FX4 Dually Auto 4.10

MODS:
Edge Insight CTS
SCT X3 w/ Custom Tunes
MBRP 4" Turboback Straightpipe Exhaust & 5" Tip
BPD 58v FICM
PHP Atlas 80 FICM Tune
IPR High Flow Coolant Filter
Blue Spring
Full Synthetic Fluids & REV-X Oil Additive
Optima Redtops
DC Power High Output 250 Amp Alt & Big 3 Upgrade
Front 44" LED Light Bar
Rear 20" LED light Bar

Yet To Be Done:
Fleetrite ELC Coolant
IPR Remote Oil Cooler
IPR Gen 1 EGR Delete
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post #7 of 12 Old 03-04-2013, 06:36 AM
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I pulled upper and lower hoses for radiator and thermostat removed also. put the hose in the upper radiator outlet to flush it. Then put hose into thermostsat housing and it will come out of lower hose also pull the block plug to get the water out of it.
Pull the hoses off coolant recovery tank and the heater control valve on passenger side you will see a metal tube going around alternator you want to put hose in that and also the heater control valve and it will go through heater core and come out of a hose at coolant tank. Then reverse flow all the hoses if there is any oil in the system hit it again with Cascade heat up engine 30 minute drive and flush again, continue to flush with water till oil free, do last couple flushes with distilled only and then put in antifreeze and distilled.
Good Luck with it, take your time to get all the oil out of the engine ect.


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post #8 of 12 Old 03-04-2013, 08:40 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SelahPSD View Post
Thanks for the info, but can you tell me why it's necessary to replace all the rubber hoses in the cooling system after doing this flush process? I'm getting ready to flush my system and I've done a lot of reading on this forum, but I have not read anything about this before. My truck has 54k miles. Thanks!
everything you ever wanted to know about the 6.0L cooling system and it's maintenance 6.0L Diesel: ..................Tech Folder.............. - Ford Truck Enthusiasts Forums
About the sixth item down is a PDF

Powerstroke Cooling System Flush Overview and Flush PDF

that will take you through all the tricks and give step by step instructions. I believe the discussion about oil-contaminated hoses is there, but if not, I'll see if I can find it. Basically the oil can't be removed and it does damage the rubber, so you need to change the hoses after you get the rest of the system cleaned up.

This forum is only one of four that I find indispensable for this kind of info. There may even be other good ones.

2005 F-250 XLT SuperCab long bed 135k. Torque Pro. 3X Fumoto's. Dieselsite coolant filter. BPD EGR cooler. Blue Spring. Rotella ELC. Rotella T6. Rev-X this year. Archoil 9100 last year. Improved HFCM plug. 24" wipers. PIE. AutoEnginuity.
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post #9 of 12 Old 03-04-2013, 01:21 PM
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Oil is a ingredient of rubber and there may be some damage done to the hoses because it was in the system. It of coarse depends on how long it has had it in there, it can cause damage to the integrity of the hoses. If you don't want to take any chances replace them if there is damage you will very likely see it as far as stretching especially at or near the hose clamps.
Take a good look at the hoses interior, if you run your finger inside the hose and you see a black finger then it attacked the rubber and replacing would be wise.
I would think a good inspection will determine if you have a issue.


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post #10 of 12 Old 03-04-2013, 06:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mhatlen View Post
Oil is a ingredient of rubber and there may be some damage done to the hoses because it was in the system. It of coarse depends on how long it has had it in there, it can cause damage to the integrity of the hoses. If you don't want to take any chances replace them if there is damage you will very likely see it as far as stretching especially at or near the hose clamps.
Take a good look at the hoses interior, if you run your finger inside the hose and you see a black finger then it attacked the rubber and replacing would be wise.
I would think a good inspection will determine if you have a issue.
Hello mhatlen, I was just reading through the forums and wanted to ask you a question about your Truck because I live in California too. I'm going to have to get my truck smog checked again, I usually pull the exhaust off and replace with the stock but recently heard that Banks was considered OEM replacement. Your comments would be greatly appreciated.
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