Rear Cover/seal - TECHS??? - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 32 Old 02-06-2013, 09:34 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Cover/seal - TECHS???

Is the rear cover seal re-usable and is there a way to unbolt the rear cover and rotate out the way without removing the rear seal to remove the branch tube? also how do I go about removing the rear seal without needing the special 200-400 buck tool?

- 2006 F250 Lariat 4x4 CC - Torreador Red

- EGR Delete, 5" Exhaust, ARP Studs c OEM HG, High Idle Mod, 4.5" Lift, 35" tires, Coolant Filter c ELC
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post #2 of 32 Old 02-07-2013, 02:58 PM Thread Starter
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Ok.. just another thought. We're considering just pulling the motor so that we have better access to the rear cover and not crouching down under the motor.
List of stuff to do-
- Head Studs
- Branch Tube Replacement
- Possible BPD Oil Cooler - gotta count the green
- Standpipe/Dummy Plugs
- Replace O-Rings everywhere

Anybody know of a write up or vid or something on how to get that beast of a POS out the truck?

- 2006 F250 Lariat 4x4 CC - Torreador Red

- EGR Delete, 5" Exhaust, ARP Studs c OEM HG, High Idle Mod, 4.5" Lift, 35" tires, Coolant Filter c ELC
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post #3 of 32 Old 02-07-2013, 03:29 PM
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I changed one out for a manual to automatic swap-out, but the engine was on a stand. It was very easy to do. I would assume you can easily get the rear cover off after pulling the transmission. If you can get the truck in the air it isn't so bad, even on the ground isn't so bad because you can sit there to work on it. You just have to crawl in! The seal is easily removed once the plate is off. Why would you want to reuse the seal? It is not expensive and if it leaks you have to go back in, you have wasted a lot of good time!

Everything can be done in place, but the PITA factor may lead you to pull it, or raise the cab, even the redneck way.

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post #4 of 32 Old 02-07-2013, 03:56 PM Thread Starter
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Rear Cover/seal - TECHS???

Not the rear seal just the o ring around the cover. I'm wanting to know what I have to order. My trucks lifted its not the room I'm worried about under it just the actual dropping of the tranny since all I have is an atv jack and not a tranny jack


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- 2006 F250 Lariat 4x4 CC - Torreador Red

- EGR Delete, 5" Exhaust, ARP Studs c OEM HG, High Idle Mod, 4.5" Lift, 35" tires, Coolant Filter c ELC
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post #5 of 32 Old 02-07-2013, 06:15 PM
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The seal is reusable if you don't damage it. Don't forget to seal the joints on the block with RTV silicone.

Frank
2007 F-250 Lariat Crew. MBM 190/50s,
KC-68 Stage 3 Turbo,
DashBoss/F/P, and a few other goodies
Stiction Problems - Fix it yourself! - http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/gen...ml#post4509754
Want to modify your injectors DIY - http://www.powerstroke.org/forum/6-0...ger-flows.html

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post #6 of 32 Old 02-07-2013, 10:15 PM Thread Starter
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oh yeah for sure....im more curious if i can just rotate the rear cover. if so Ima leave the motor in if not ima prolly pull the motor. I have a hpo leak but might as well do studs while im in there you know?

- 2006 F250 Lariat 4x4 CC - Torreador Red

- EGR Delete, 5" Exhaust, ARP Studs c OEM HG, High Idle Mod, 4.5" Lift, 35" tires, Coolant Filter c ELC
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post #7 of 32 Old 02-07-2013, 11:31 PM
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Why does the branch tube need to be replaced? Did the STC blow off and bend it? I've bent them back numerous times with no issues.

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post #8 of 32 Old 02-08-2013, 12:11 AM Thread Starter
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did an airtest and commanded the ipr closed and it's leaking from under both valve covers(loudly) and from drain tube of turbo. took off hpop cover and hpop then put air line on branch tube itself. and could hear it at the base of the branch tube and around the coupling where the HPOP bolts to it. My HPO only builds to like 200 psi when the engine is hot and does a no start so, the price of the tube being 90 i figure why not go ahead and replace so i dont have to worry about being stranded again 40 miles from home with a boat when its 430a and nobody wants to come get me...Pretty much figure why not go ahead and nix it all, thats why im doing the studs too

- 2006 F250 Lariat 4x4 CC - Torreador Red

- EGR Delete, 5" Exhaust, ARP Studs c OEM HG, High Idle Mod, 4.5" Lift, 35" tires, Coolant Filter c ELC
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post #9 of 32 Old 02-08-2013, 12:14 AM Thread Starter
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it was bent due to catastrophic stc failure that cracked the sH!* out of the back cover and bent the tube fitting to a good 30-45 deg

- 2006 F250 Lariat 4x4 CC - Torreador Red

- EGR Delete, 5" Exhaust, ARP Studs c OEM HG, High Idle Mod, 4.5" Lift, 35" tires, Coolant Filter c ELC
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post #10 of 32 Old 02-08-2013, 05:17 AM
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just borrow/rent a tranny jack from somewhere. same with the rear seal installer. you already have the hpop cover off then, yes? that needs to be off when the rear cover goes back on. also, you have to use a putty knife to cut silicon where the bed plate seal meets the rear cover. otherwise, when you pull the rear cover, it could pull out some of the bed plate seal. and you don't wanna do the bed plate seals.

pulling the engine out the front is surprisingly pretty easy. i just did one yesterday actually. i can whip up a little write up for you if you are gonna go that route. but i wouldn't. not to change the branch tube alone anyways.

the richest ones are not those who have the most, but those who need the least
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