Crank...no Start...Cam Sensor - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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post #1 of 11 Old 01-31-2013, 10:47 AM Thread Starter
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Crank...no Start...Cam Sensor

After spending time analizing the various troubleshooting items for my 2003 6.0L, its come down the the cam sensor needing replacement. The Haynes book states the sensor can be removed from under the truck yet when I look up at the sensor, I can't even get my arm in there because of a lower radiator hose and the cross link on the steering assembly, plus being able to only get one arm up there (if all is removed) the power steering hose/ pipe is in the way. From various threads on this site it states going in from the top after the air cleaner is removed still has the intercooler piping and the battery tray in the way. While I haven't looked, at this point, is there a way of going in from the wheel well after the wheel is removed?? Need help getting this truck back on the road by the end of the weekend.
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post #2 of 11 Old 01-31-2013, 10:52 AM
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post #3 of 11 Old 01-31-2013, 11:05 AM
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Re: Crank...no Start...Cam Sensor

I've done it from above with filter out just have to move line when you get it loose.

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post #4 of 11 Old 01-31-2013, 01:41 PM
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Both sensors can be removed from underneath without removeing anything if your good with working with just your finger tips. It is not for the faint of heart.

First how did you determine that the sensor is bad. You see it on live data with a real scanner. You aren't makeing sync, verified by a scanner or how???
Those sensors are pretty stable and seldom fail. Hate to see ya go to alot of work and it maybe something else. There are a lot of things that can keed a 6.0 from starting.


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post #5 of 11 Old 02-01-2013, 06:43 AM Thread Starter
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All tests for FICM, IPR and IPC were good. Cranking made the tach register about 200RPM. A friend ran his Scanner and said the cam sensor signal was not registering, said he saw the crank sensor working. Fuel pressure was 65-70psi, scanner read 1100 on HPOP, FICM read 48.3 static and 48.1 cranking. The truck, after sitting for 4 days in 10F weather was plugged in for about 6 hours prior to using and it started right up.....temperature was about 8F. I ran it to get horse feed and on the way back from the feed store it started hesitating and when I pulled in the driveway it surged a couple of times and stalled. While I drove it for 25 miles and everything was warmed up, I pushed it in the garage and put a salamander on the fuel tank and lower fuel filter, thinking I may have gelled up but after about 3 hours of heating it wouldn't start. Called my buddy with the scanner and we began running thru everything.
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post #6 of 11 Old 02-01-2013, 10:40 AM
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Re: Crank...no Start...Cam Sensor

Use the scanner to check speed sensors and abs module. Shot in the dark but we had one that wouldn't run and abs module was bad.

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post #7 of 11 Old 02-01-2013, 10:03 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dannyboy950 View Post
Both sensors can be removed from underneath without removeing anything if your good with working with just your finger tips. It is not for the faint of heart.
you betcha. although, i usually remove the one bolt holding the PS pump and line bracket just to swing the line out of the way a bit. neither cam nor crank are comfortable to do. have removed the CMP from above and below and below was easier. but from above, you can get a good look at the pigtail to make sure the failure doesn't lie there. which is fairly common due to location. you can also measure resistance of the new sensor and compare it to readings taken at the pcm connector. though that method is really only conclusive for locating an open circuit. either in the sensor, or wiring

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post #8 of 11 Old 02-04-2013, 09:00 AM Thread Starter
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Ok, update.......changed out the cam sensor from underneath....PITA... and the truck still wouldn't start. Tried getting my friend with the scanner back and found he was working so I rechecked the voltage related sensors and then rechecked the FICM with a multimeter. All the gauges were lowered than the first time I checked them and the FICM read 20v KOEO and 18v cranking. Batteries were both at 12.8v. Funny thing was after the key was turned off the voltage jumped to 30v and than ran down to 0v. Pulled the FICM and will be sending it to a repair center to be rebuilt....was hestiatant about getting it modified to 58v since these threads stated running heavy loads causes the module to heat up (can't imagine that sitting 4 inches above the manifold) and they don't like heat (why did they put it there??). Anyway, should get it back Friday or Saturday and then we hope that solved the problem.
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post #9 of 11 Old 02-04-2013, 05:20 PM
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Mine did the same thing a few months back and the cam sensor was set off by the constant cranking and turning the engine over. My problem turned out to be my FICM. Sent it off to FICM repair.com, got it back in a few days and she fired right up. Might want to test the ICP by unplugging it and if she fires up thats your culprit. If not then you can volt test your FICM. Free and easy tests to do.

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post #10 of 11 Old 02-05-2013, 06:05 AM Thread Starter
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Yeah, provided you have the 45-48v at the FICM. Its easier for my to check the FICM voltage then to get to that plug. The FICM was sent to USA ficm.com in Texas. I had a friend who sent one there for a 58v upgrade and they were fast in getting it back and his no start issues were resolved. After doing some surfing I got the impression the 58v upgrade could work against you if you do a lot of heavy towing since the unit tends to generate more heat. If heat is the issue why couldn't you put a spacer in between the ficm and the mounting bracket to allow air flow between the two......there's enough threads on the bolts to afford a 1/4" spacer.

Last edited by FarmerDave; 02-05-2013 at 09:50 AM.
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