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Old 01-28-2013, 09:27 AM
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White/Blue smoke when accelerating from a stop...

I recently purchased a 2007 F-250, and have noticed that when leaving from a stop, there is a noticeable puff of white/blue smoke. The issue seems to be more noticeable when the truck is cold, but fairly consistant. I don't notice it under normal driving, but mainly from a stop. I have cleaned the EGR, cleaned and oiled the AFE filter, and ran 2 bottles of Rev-X through it.

I have an aftermarket warranty, but I usually prefer to work on my own vehicles when I can. Based on the description, do you think it's turbo related, or maybe injector? When I pulled the EGR, there was no moisture inside, but I shouldn't rule out EGR cooler either I suppose. Any suggestions you might have on what to check next is appreciated. BTW, the truck has 53k miles on it, and the only mods are a cat back exhaust and AFE intake
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Old 01-28-2013, 10:00 AM
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In addition, I noticed some rust on the bottom of the turbo, and excess oil around the hose on the turbo intake side. Could these be related to the issue I am seeing?
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White/Blue smoke when accelerating from a stop...-turbo.jpg   White/Blue smoke when accelerating from a stop...-turbo2.jpg   White/Blue smoke when accelerating from a stop...-turbo3.jpg  
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Old 01-29-2013, 12:19 AM
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White/Blue smoke when accelerating from a stop...

I am experiencing the same issue.
First thing everyone here will tell u to do is buy a digital gauge system that can monitor your engines vital this will give you some insight on how the truck is running, scangauge II is prob one of the cheapest and does a great job just doesn't look flash, if you want a nicer cleaner look edge makes the insight series monitor which comes in pushbutton CS or touch screen CTS.
Its plugs into your obd2 port under the dash just above the accelerator pedal and gives you up to 8 digital gauge readings at one time a must have on these trucks .
Once you get the monitor and have some data that its operating under normal specs have someone with ford ids software run whats called a cold soaked power balance test. It will check ficm (fuel injector control module which sends correct voltage to the injectors for optimal performance ficm should be outputting 47-48volts )and the 2nd test is for injector balance which will give you an indication if all injectors are working and firing in proper sequence.

if thats ok pop the turbo inlet and outlet tubes and look for oil you might have oil blow by caused from old/bad seals, the turbo might need a rebuild if you are seeping oil into the exhaust (causing turbo lag/surge white blueish oil burning exhaust .
if your egr valve looked good and the egr cooler was bad you would be burning coolant and getting white steam like exhaust not blue haze, also if the egr cooler was bad the coolant levels would be diminishing quickly since your boiling the h20 out of the coolant system, (and it would begin the overheating process which as we all know eventually blows head gaskets)



try putting a new coolant degas cap on (9-11 bucks at ford)they are known to break which would not allow you to test a proper psi reading for the coolant system

Once u have a new degas cap check your coolant pressure while doing 60mph on the highway when the truck is up to operating temp. There are a few threads on The forums or youtube videos on how to put together a coolant PSI test kit its like a $35 psi gauge kit and will let you know if there is a problem with the egrc or worse head gaskets. Coolant system Pressure at normal operation temps should not exceed 6-10 psi anything more than u have an issue in that regard.

Also check your coolant to see if it is low /mixing with oil or fuel it might look milky and cloudy or smells like fuel in it. You should be putting Cat elc el-1 rated coolant in the system for longevity of the system its far superior to the ford premium gold coolant , DO NOT USE GREEN OR DEX antifreeze.

Another cause for a bad or backed up cooling system would be a bad / clogged oil filter the psi test will potential. Tell that also since the egr system is piggy backed to the oil cooler.

You should be running a good oil in the truck most people on here recommend shell rotella 5w-40 t6 or an equivalent fully synthetic diesel oil , when in cold temps this will aid in better start ups and Smoother running.

Injectors are prob 3rd most expensive potential issue If you need injector(s)that can get pricey 150 -250 each depending, not including labor. head gaskets are the 2nd priciest option due to labor and technical difficulty of install.
The worst thing is to keep driving with this problem till you melt your motor then your out 8-11 k weather its full rebuild or new engine all together

Obviously this is allot of info and a million different circumstances, search the boards but if your a DIYer and don't want to tap into the warranty for the small stuff , start with a monitoring system and the homemade coolant psi gauge test, if that doesn't help, get the FORD IDS diagnostic test and go from there. Good luck and any questions on here everyone welcomes there is a plethora from some very experienced members .

.


Sent from AutoGuide.com App
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Old 01-29-2013, 08:14 AM
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Wow, thank you very much for the detailed response. I will be ordering the SCT Livewire today, which I believe monitors all of the items you mentioned. Once I get a reading, I will follow your steps outlined below. I have had a few people tell me it sounds like oil is getting by the turbo seals and causing the issue.

I am bummed that the truck is already having issues, but I was well aware of the issues with the 6.0 before buying it, so I should not complain =).
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Old 01-29-2013, 06:40 PM
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definitely sounds like turbo. disconnect the downpipe from the turbo and have a look in there. if you see any oil, it's time to rebuild/replace
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Old 02-07-2013, 07:54 AM
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So I received my livewire lastnight and hooked it up. I don't see any glaring issues while monitoring things...the FICM is showing 48-50 volts, coolant and oil temp had a variance of 12 degrees, but I do have a question about battery voltage. I noticed when I initially start the truck the voltage is under 12 volts. As soon as I shut it off, the volts are around 11.X or so.

I also pulled the downpipe off and didn't see any oil in the turbo , as well as the inlet pipe, no notable oil there either. I am starting to think the issue might be injector related, but not sure I have a way to test for it. Is the only true way to test is to take it to the dealer?
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White/Blue smoke when accelerating from a stop...-guages.jpg   White/Blue smoke when accelerating from a stop...-guages3.jpg  

Last edited by mmlx89; 02-07-2013 at 07:57 AM.
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Old 02-07-2013, 01:57 PM
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Going by the pictures you need to replace the turbo boot. That thing has seen better days and i'll bet thats where the oil is coming from. Get riff raff boots.
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:05 PM
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I actually pulled the boots off the turbo and the intercooler, cleaned and inspected them and they are in great shape. No tears, still very pliable, etc. The truck only has 50k miles on it, just bumbed I can't figure out the smoking issue.
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Old 02-07-2013, 03:50 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mmlx89 View Post
In addition, I noticed some rust on the bottom of the turbo, and excess oil around the hose on the turbo intake side. Could these be related to the issue I am seeing?
Your turbo looks pretty normal on the outside. If there is too much play on the shaft, you can get oil going by both the turbine side or the comp side, but usually it is the turbine side oil ring. If it is only a puff on acceleration it might not show in the down-pipe.

The injectors would give other hints of a problem.
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Old 02-28-2013, 01:48 PM
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Hey GUys, just wanted to update to say the issue was with the turbo. The seals were leaking, and needed to be replaced. I ended up upgrading to the Powermax, and it's running great.

For anyone that is in So CA needed diesel repair or performance I highly recommend Matt and his crew at DIesel Powerhouse in Norco.

Diesel Power House |
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