05 Wont Idle.

[w6bauer]

Just got my AE software installed, im getting a few codes.

P0487 Exhaust gas recirculation throttle position control range/performance
(Egr delete kit causing this?)
P0528 fan speed sensor circuit no signal (i dont have electric cooling fan why do i get this code?)
P2614 CMP output circuit open (installed new cmp, wires look good)

I have commanded idle to 750 and truck will idle fine. I am watching cmp and ckp are in sync values and it switches between 0 and 1. Seems like when it switches and idle is not commanded above normal this is when truck stalls.

Some more info....idling commanded at 750 rpm

Cmp sensor level low
Cmp failure : no fault
Injector control pressure: 583psi
Icp volts: .86
Icpr: 22.66%
Kam power: Fault
Ficm main power: 47.5v
Ficm main power: 13.5-14 v
Ficm logic power: 13-13.5v
Cmp sensor level: 0 bit.

If anyone has any suggestions please let me know, also let me know if you need more info.

Truck is 2005 f350 6.0. Egr cooler delete is only mod i have done. I have replaced injectors oil cooler and cam sensor. I have tested ficm with multimeter and it shows same voltage as my scan tool. I have tested all injectors and they all are firing. Fresh oil and filter fresh fuel filters all motorcraft.

Any and all insight appreciated

Thanks

Will

[southend]

Is the icpr desired or actual. Is the icp desired or actual. If the icp is actual, it looks low to me. If you have a hpo leak the increase in rpm may be helping it compensate for a leak. I'm interested.

Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get.

[PSDMikeB]

Your fan has a viscous coupling that is electronically controlled. You are right, not an electric fan, but the code is still valid. May have a bad fan clutch.

Not sure about the stalling issue. Start with batteries, FICM, monitor ICP.

MikeB

[kaya@bernhausen]

the p0487 is suspect for sure. remove the intake horn and cycle the key on and off. see if the throttle valve closes and opens as it should

[twoicebergs]

ICP is good. No load at 750 rpm.

From what I see your CMP is not valid and that is shutting down the engine. You need both CMP and CKP at state "1". CMP is used by the ECU to send info to the FICM for fueling of the cylinders. Since you changed the sensor, you may have a plug or wiring issue, a bad new sensor or a problem with the magnet on the camshaft. Find or fix this problem and you are good to go. My best guess is the wires at the plug itself.

The KAM fault usually means it lost power from the last power-up or you have a low battery or wiring issue.

[w6bauer]

Ive definitely got a short somewhere. I load tested batteries and they are not good. I put two new ones in and ive got a good size draw draining them. Problem is i dont know where its coming from. Ive pulled all fuses one by one and the draw does not go away. What is an acceptable drain on this truck?

I will test the wires to the CMP today and see it that tells me anything more about the loss of sync. When its sitting at idle the sync is from 0 to 1 at a consistent rate. When im driving, low throttle cruising at a set rate it will be synced pretty consistent, and as soon as i punch it i lose the sync.

I did not think that 583 psi icp was low. Truck is very hard to get started the first start of the day. Almost 30 seconds cranking. It takes a while for oil pressure to show on dash. Could this all be because a bad cam sensor signal?

[twoicebergs]

Ive definitely got a short somewhere. I load tested batteries and they are not good. I put two new ones in and ive got a good size draw draining them. Problem is i dont know where its coming from. Ive pulled all fuses one by one and the draw does not go away. What is an acceptable drain on this truck?

I believe 50mA is the cut off. Here is the method to set the test up. You are suppose to wait a few hours to run the test with no key, open doors, etc. disconnect the hood light before you start the test. You have to hook the meter up without removing power to the vehicle. Best way to do this is to put the meter in-line with one battery (it doesn't matter if you use the Batt+ or -), then disconnect the other battery.

I will test the wires to the CMP today and see it that tells me anything more about the loss of sync. When its sitting at idle the sync is from 0 to 1 at a consistent rate. When im driving, low throttle cruising at a set rate it will be synced pretty consistent, and as soon as i punch it i lose the sync.

Sounds like a vibration issue. It could be either wires/plugs or the sender.

Truck is very hard to get started the first start of the day. Almost 30 seconds cranking. It takes a while for oil pressure to show on dash. Could this all be because a bad cam sensor signal?

Many times a normal vehicle will start just before the oil gauge jumps up. The CMP will not let it start at "0" state. The 30 seconds could be a function of the "0" state or some other start issue. In your case, it all seems related, since you get intermittent states. You are very lucky it hasn't left you on the road wishing you were home!

[kaya@bernhausen]

50mA draw is about acceptable for a car. for these trucks, expect to see around 100mA at least.
this is how i usually test for a parasitic drain; disconnect one of the battery positive cables. disconnect the hood lamp. correctly range the meter to read amps. place the dmm positive lead on the battery positive post and neg lead on the battery positive terminal. use alligator clips. allow the vehicle to enter sleep mode. usually takes about 3-5 minutes. observe draw

[twoicebergs]

Originally Posted by kaya@bernhausen

allow the vehicle to enter sleep mode. usually takes about 3-5 minutes. observe draw

I thought there was 2 levels of sleep, but I could be thinking of a different vehicle.

[kaya@bernhausen]

Originally Posted by twoicebergs

I thought there was 2 levels of sleep, but I could be thinking of a different vehicle.

hmm. not sure. the 6.0's i've seen have always dropped right down within a couple minutes.