PLEASE HELP.... "2005" Losing coolant somewhere...

[VictorianFarms]

I have a 2005 6 liter with 50,000 miles on it. Over the last few weeks I have gotten into the truck and the heater would not work (would not get warm) I checked the coolant level and it was down about a gallon or so, that fixed the problem. A few weeks later after pulling my gooseneck with a 20,000lb tractor on it I noticed the coolant level went down again. I do notice the very faint smell of coolant coming from somewhere. Its not throwing any codes and the oil and water temps are within 8 to 10 degrees of each other. I have a monitor on the motor and I also have custom tunes on the SCT tuner from River City Diesel. I normally run the truck on tow tune. I "assume" the EGR cooler is going bad? No coolant on the floor so its not leaking out. I did put a coolant filter on it at 35,000 miles and I also have a remote oil cooler on the truck. Any ideas would greately appreciated! I have noticed that the IPR EGR Gen2 kit is getting praise from the members of the forum.
I did change out all of the injectors last Spring and had them rebuilt, somewhat of a big job for a 50 year old with a bad back but it wasnt that bad of a job.
I assume this isnt as bad but please let me know what its going to take to do the job. Hoping the intake manifold doesnt have to come off or the turbo, so hard to reach all of the bolts and nuts in such a cramped space. Thank You for all of your input!!!!!

[PS007CX]

I have the same problem with my 2005 F250 w/134K miles. The EGR cooler was replaced at about 100K miles. My problem is very similar the only difference is the heat will work when coming off idle. When I come to a stop light and sit at idle for a few minutes the heat goes cold but as soon as I come off idle and in motion the heat begins to work again.

I noticed coolant appears to be leaking from the cap of the resevoir so I replaced it but I still have the same problem. I'm being told it sounds like a head gasket? If so, what should I expect to pay? When and if I have it repaired is there anything besides an ARP stud kit that should be added when the repair is made?

Thanks for any/all help provided in this matter.

Brian

[taskforcefreddy]

The first post sounds like EGR... I'm basing this on the notion that you lost a gallon rather quickly. I believe if you pull the EGR valve and look inside the manifold, it may appear moist... especially if you're able to park in a manner that elevates the rear of the truck so any coolant in the manifold flows to the front. This will help you determine if the EGR is bad. The question is, why did it go bad? I would guess your oil cooler is clogged but if you have a monitor, you would've caught wind of theis with your oil and coolant temps.

To the second post, I would guess you have bad HG's but once again, the question is 'why'? Generally, a bad oil cooler will cause the coolant in EGR to become superheated which then doesn't flow well enough into heads. When the heads get too hot, they expand and the Tyorque To Yield (TTY) bolts don't have enough tensil strength to maintain their load allowing for the HG's to get damaged. If you caught the problem early, it might just be a HG job however if this has gone on for a while, there's a chance the heads are warped and then your talking more money. I think a HG job will be around $4,000 but I've seen it done for less. Best bet is to get ARP head studs as they're much stronger than the TTY bolts.

Hope this helps. I'm sure some other folks will chime in here.