![]() |
Please Visit our Site Sponsors
|
![]() |
|
![]() |
![]() |
|
|
![]() |
|
|
LinkBack | Thread Tools | Display Modes |
|
|||
|
No power above 2k help???
I can't figure out whats going on with my 2003 6.0! It starts up fine, even in the cold (30*) and feels like it runs pretty normal until about 2000 rpm or maybe 40mph. At WOT even in 1st gear it wont make enough power to shift. If I get out of the gas pedal about half way it feels like it picks up a little more power. on the highway its all it can do to run 60mph. After a couple miles it will finally get to 70mph but there isn't enough power to sustain it! In my head it seemed to simply be fuel filters! It was about the right time to do them anyway so I changed them on the ground in the drizzling rain but that didn't fix anything! I also checked what I think is the EBP sensor and it looked perfectly clean. (the plug side) Do I need to physically take the sensor out?
Now for a little background. Its a 2003 6.0 with approx. 176xxx miles. I changed my oil last week and it ran fine until yesterday. At some point between now and then I also added a bottle of diesel Kleen fuel treatment. I replaced the ICP sensor and plug about 7000 miles ago and replaced the FICM about 15k ago. Does anyone have any idea??? could it be injectors? turbo? I can still hear the turbo spinning if that helps. *** also earlier this week I noticed that my overhead computer and odometer reset themselves. This has never happened to me without a battery dying so I don't know if it is related or not. I get a sudden surge upon the truck firing up but it immediately goes to normal idle. Please help! Im stumped |
| Sponsored Links | ||
Advertisement | ||
|
|||
|
Any help? anyone? I just picked up a scangaugeII so if that helps, anyone with experience using it feel free to chime in!
|
|
|||
|
What's the FICM voltage?
|
|
|||
|
Check it when you turn the key on and when it running
|
|
|||
|
FICM was 48.5-48 key on engine off then 48.5 solid while running. My FICM is only about 8 months old... I'm starting to figure this scan gauge out. What parameters are most helpful? I don't know what normal ranges are for a lot of the parameters.
|
|
|||
|
If you have suspect that there have been voltage fluctuations it could be your FICM. My illegitimate offspring of a female dog is sitting over a hundred miles from home because of an apparent voltage spike that took out the logic board. FICM voltage was fine, no problems with that but the logic board was so fried that it was unrepairable and needed to be replaced. When he sent it back to me, FICM repair strongly suggested replacing the alternator before installing the FICM. I was on the road at 6am to take a 217 mile round trip to pull the alternator to make sure I got the correct one. I found that the connections were loose and the pins on the regulator were burned and corroded. I stopped by the local dealer and for a mere $50.00 they sold me a new alternator plug with about 3" of wire on it. Hopefully when I get everything bolted back on it will start and run long enough to get me to a chevy dealer.
|
|
|||
|
I really don't suspect the FICM yet just because it fires up fine and really doesn't show any symptoms until either WOT or about 40 mph. I just can't help but think its a boost or fueling issue.
|
|
|||
|
You need to look at the monitor when the problem happens and if you can replicate the problem to look at other parameters. It still could be the FICM, but check your IPR and ICP readings. As you push the skinny pedal down, the IPR duty cycle should increase and the ICP pressure should increase. At WOT the ICP should be about over 3900 psi (reading may be tune corrected). If that is happening and you are still going nowhere fast, you may need to check your fuel pressure, but you will need a gauge for that.
|
|
|||
|
You mentioned that the overhead reset itself. I ignored symptoms of battery/ alternator problems because it was sporatic and did not seem to be causing any problems. As a result my truck is over a hundred miles away while I gather all the parts and find the time to get back to replace the FICM and alternator and properly repair the alternator wiring. It may have nothing to do with your present problem but with what I know now I wouldn't ignore a possible electric system/ battery/ alternator problem for a day.
Also If you can not find any other problem FICM repair will bench test the FICM and plug it into an engine to see if there are any problems for around $50.00. at least you will know one way or the other. |
|
|||
|
Like I said, I actually replaced my FICM a couple months ago with a new unit from FICMrepair.org. I'm not seeing below 48 volts on my scan gauge. What I did see last night was my ICP would climb to around 1000psi @ 1700 rpm then drop off to around 570 at any higher rpm including WOT. Doesn't this begin to narrow it down to a fuel issue? If I can't figure it out by Monday I'm taking it to a mechanic here in town. I did the blue spring mod a couple months ago but haven't bad an issue since, if that makes any difference. I'm going to try to rig up a mechanical fuel pressure gauge tomorrow(stuck at the fire station for 24). Shouldn't fuel pressure be around 55psi?
|
| Sponsored Links | |
Advertisement | |
![]() |
| Thread Tools | |
| Display Modes | |
|
|