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6.0L need some help
I have a 2006 F-350 4x4 with a 6.0L. I just did standpipe and dummy plugs, Upgraded the STC fitting on the HPOP and changed the IPR screen (had no junk/metal on it) and put it all back together. now when I crank it it just turns and never tries to start or even hesitate. It's obvious the starter is just turning over the engine. I also did an oil change and fuel filter change. I verified that there is fuel making it to the engine fuel filter and oil made it to the engine oil filter. This is puzzling because it started before. I got codes of P2285 (ICP) so I changed the ICP sensor and pigtail, Also got P0403/P0405 which is related to the EGR but even then it should hesitate to start at least and blow smoke. It doesn't even blow smoke or anything it's like there is no combustion what so ever no matter how long I crank it. The oil pressure gauge never rises or fluctuate. When the key is turned the only thing that happens it the motor spins. Wore out the batteries and a starter trying to crank the motor over. I verified that everything has been reconnected correctly. The last time I read the codes prior to pulling the batteries I still had the P2285 for the ICP.
Any assistance would be greatly appreciated |
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so looks your not building oil pressure?
and this is required or it won't let the truck start |
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I read somewhere that if I don't refill the reservoir it would take forever to start. Do you know what reservoir they might be referring to? when I had the HPOP cover off the engine was immaculate but was I suppose to put oil in there? Also I removed the Hi pressure oil rail on bother side to remove the standpipe and the oil drained out of them should I have refilled them. The manual didn't say anything about that.
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The reservoir is under the oil cooler. If you didn't go there and drain it, it still would be full. However, when you pulled the oil rails, it can take some time for those to fill and when it does start, it will run rough while purging. When installing the stand-pipes and plugs, too much oil is better than not enough. You can also add oil to the rail after it is installed. Some have pulled the rail test plug and cranked the engine to get oil their faster. But the last 2 methods are not listed in the repair manual.
Keep your cranking to less than 20 seconds. Give a minute between cranks. Do no more than 4 cranks if it does not start and then wait a minimum of 15-30 minutes for the second session of cranking. |
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actually, the oil in the oil cooler res will drain when the pump is removed, since the pump is all that keeps it from draining.
op, you had both rails drained, the oil from inside the pump drained, and the oil cooler res drained. there is going to be a lot of cranking to purge all that air. how many cranking cycles have you gone trough, and how long per cycle? as mentioned, you can remove the small cap screws on the rails and crank to purge the air. this would also tell you if you were at least getting oil through the hpo side. though that would mean removing te valve covers again. |
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So when I drain the engine oil during a regular oil change, does the reservoir get drained also or does it stay full?
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It stays full.
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You need a monitor, without that, i'm going to suggest that trash has made it to the ipr and it cannot regulate oil pressure to the injectors. You must have a battery charger on the batteries for cranking or you risk damaging your ficm and starter. You may need to pull your ipr again and inspect it.
Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get. |
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Even if there was trash in the IPR wouldn't it still do some sort of hesitation to start. While I wait for the batteries to recharged ill attempt to remove the IPR and inspect the screen. I'll also get a charger to put on the truck while I crank it over.
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Quote:
Sent from my phone that somebody didn't help me get. |
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| crank no start, icp, no smoke |
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