-35f out truck started but ran rough - Ford Powerstroke Diesel Forum
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Old 11-29-2012, 02:56 AM
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-35f out truck started but ran rough

needless to say my block heater isnt working for some reason
truck started up fine but ran like sh!t like it was missing a few cylanders, also my edge insite cts didnt come on and it always comes on when truck is turned on, thought that was super weird.
it definately cranked a lot slower then normal.
is it safe to start it up and let it warm up like this or is that going to do some major damage?
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:47 AM
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In that kind of temps you need to let it warm up a good bit before ya put a load on it [drive it] As it gets warm things should level out. Not only is your oil thicker but your fuel as well. If it was me I would be looking into why my block heater quit working.
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:48 AM
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well even though its -35 i decided to go out there and check **** out and figure it out as im at work and need to get back to camp. checked voltage at the prongs where i plug block heater in, got 115v, checked voltage on the connector (yes i laid in the snow in the freezing temps) got ~60v. shouldnt it be 115v all the way through? that seemed very wierd to me.

found my coolant leak while i was under there it was leaking quite bad. to the point it pissed me off im not sure how much it leaked tonight but looked like a lot. from the bottom traced it up to the top of the back of the block. popped hood and hopped up top, it was leaking out of the egr delete hose at the front of block side, going to try to tighten up the clamp however i put it on pretty tight. just another thing i dont like about this egr delete. absolutely horrible fit. **** dont buy a sinister kit****

anyways i put some di electric grease onto the end of the cord that goes to the block in the terminals, it also looked a little lop sided when i took it off. so im hoping the block starts to warm up, and that i didnt lose any injectors already. is there a part of the block that gets really warm to the touch where i can test if its working or not?

thanks for any help guys
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Old 11-29-2012, 03:51 AM
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oh i only let it idle for 5 seconds whole cab was bouncing all over the place so i shut er down, oil was definately thick and i am thinking that the hpop was having a hard time as well as the injectors getting proper pressure, so i think some were missing, i just hope i didnt break any because replacing injectors in this cold will not be fun at all especially when its gonna snow later. happy 6 liter owner here
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:00 AM
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Looks like it is cold in northern Alberta: -34*C in High Level, -27*C in Ft McMurray.

The engine should be fine, but I hear ya, it ain't happy! Are you running 0w40syn or Syncrude tar?

Leaks, the real cold weather plays havoc with seals. Outside of welding everything closed, the IPR gen 2 delete seems like a better option, but that won't help you now.

A lot of the LCD gauges won't work or dim when it gets too cold. My factory navi in my SUV is about 50% brightness at -20*C until it warms up in the cabin. My new aftermarket in the truck works fine in the cold. Not bad for a cheap, I mean less expensive, Chinese unit. My old Garmin wouldn't even start, just a message on the screen, "Too Cold".

Looks like your heater cord is bad. If the engine end looked good, just replace the end plug. You should be able to hear it, if it is working - a fizzing sound. Heater cords are probably in short supply, but if I were a betting man, most of the diesel heavy machinery at your camp uses a similar cord if you need to borrow one!
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Old 11-29-2012, 07:18 AM
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Yah I'm heading into town to see what I can find, ill prob buy a cord and a ****ty magnet oil pan heater for if the cord wasn't the problem.

Truck started no problem but ran so bad it wasn't even funny thought for sure I was damaging it. After about 30 seconds it started to idle properly.

I unplugged and plugged back in the edge insight and it came on to show me a nice 14f coolant temp and 3f oil temp oh and 0f tranny temp.

I'm running rotella t6 which is 5w40 synth with 2 bottles of rev x


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Old 11-29-2012, 07:21 AM
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Yah I just want the motor to be happy until the spring when I can properly overhaul it. The good thing about the leak is now my head gaskets might be good still haha


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Old 11-29-2012, 07:41 AM
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Will I be able to hear that noise even if the motor is warm?


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Old 11-29-2012, 09:53 AM
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Yes you should still be able to hear it. That said in all honesty if it's been that cold up there already and your truck is acting up it might be worth your while to park it til spring and drive something else. If it shuts down on you in the back country in the winter time man (I'm sure you know this) your as good as dead in those temps. I'd park it and work on it on my days off until I knew it was reliable to take down the road.

As far as the egr delete fix. Go to the local hardware store and buy a foot of black 3/4" I.D. Heater hose and cut about a 2 1/2" piece off of it and buy two new hose clamps. The. Remove the little cover that is held down with 2 screws (easier said than done it easiest way to fix this problem) and pull the whole assembly up and out with the hose still attached to it. Then install the new hose piece on the nipple and slide it on the egr tube and button it all back up. I would also be on the horn with sunrise ford, auto fair ford, or tousley ford and getting a new heater cord on the way to you ASAP.

Also check your batteries and FICM this cold weather will wreak havoc on them. If they have a dead cell replace BOTH of them with a matching set. Don't mix and match batteries. It would also be a GREAT idea in the extreme cold temps that you deal with to get a oil heater as well. Let us know what you figure out.
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Old 11-29-2012, 01:19 PM
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Batteries are less then a year old ficm was reman by international in 2011 they are both good.

Tightened the clamp on the egr delete it was hand loose for some reason. The rubber tube is s shaped a bit for some reason I think it should be straight and that's where I'm getting the sinister made a ****ty kit from. Anyone else you guys know of have problems with the tube not lining up correctly?

Bryan those 2 bolts on the top of the ficm are what holds the egr delete in? I can't really remember when I did it, just loosen them off pop egr down and pull it off?

As for reliable I still am praying my gaskets are good hahah ill call the dealership that did them tommorow to see if they used Oem or black onyx gaskets. And I will check later when I go to work to see if tightening that clamp helped with the leak.

Got a new block heater cord and element from an auto parts store, not ford, for $82 called the nearest ford they wanted $241 just for the cord I laughed as I hung up.




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